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St. Louis

The Gate­way City
Blick vom Gateway Arch auf die grüne Kuppel des Old Courthouse und die Hochhäuser der Innenstadt von St. Louis.

St. Lou­is is loca­ted in the U.S. sta­te of Mis­sou­ri on the wes­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­piand is one of the most his­to­ri­cal­ly signi­fi­cant cities in the Ame­ri­can Mid­west. Foun­ded in 1764, the city deve­lo­ped from a French tra­ding post into an important eco­no­mic and trans­por­ta­ti­on cen­ter. Its loca­ti­on near the con­fluence of the Mis­sou­ri and Mis­sis­sip­pi made it an important start­ing point for trade, migra­ti­on, and the deve­lo­p­ment of the Ame­ri­can West. It is no coin­ci­dence that St. Lou­is bears the nick­na­me “Gate­way to the West” – Gate­way to the West.

To this day, this histo­ry shapes the city­scape. His­to­ric brick buil­dings, monu­men­tal public buil­dings, expan­si­ve rail­way faci­li­ties, and modern sky­scra­pers are often found in the imme­dia­te vici­ni­ty of one ano­ther. With the Gate­way ArchSt. Lou­is has one of the USA’s best-known land­marks. Along the Mis­sis­sip­pi, his­to­ric steel bridges, freight trains, and indus­tri­al port faci­li­ties recall the city’s eco­no­mic foundations.

But St. Lou­is offers far more than the Gate­way Arch and its famous sky­line. Public art, a diver­se music histo­ry, long-estab­lished restau­rants, and distinct­ly shaped neigh­bor­hoods make the metro­po­lis a varied tra­vel desti­na­ti­on. The com­bi­na­ti­on of his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re, indus­tri­al heri­ta­ge, and ever­y­day city life in par­ti­cu­lar opens up inte­res­t­ing pho­to­gra­phic per­spec­ti­ves. St. Lou­is is an Ame­ri­can major city who­se histo­ry is visi­ble not only in muse­ums, but also in its streets, buil­dings, and trans­por­ta­ti­on routes.

Toas­ted Ravioli

The cris­py stuf­fed pas­ta pockets reflect the Ita­li­an influence on the regio­nal cuisine.

Brain Sand­wich

Brea­ded and fried brain in a bun recalls the region’s his­to­ric working-class and slaugh­ter­house culture.

Ted Dre­wes Fro­zen Custard 
Weißer Ted-Drewes-Verkaufsbau mit roten Buchstaben und mehreren Giebeln an der Chippewa Street; davor liegen eine Fußgängerquerung, Ampeln und Absperrungen.

St. Louis on the Mississippi

Weißes Ausflugsschiff mit roten Akzenten zwischen den Steinpfeilern und dunklen Stahlbögen der Eads Bridge über dem Mississippi.

History, trade and historic bridges

The histo­ry of St. Lou­isis inse­pa­ra­b­ly lin­ked to the Mis­sis­sip­pi. The migh­ty river not only deter­mi­ned the loca­ti­on of the ori­gi­nal sett­le­ment, but also influen­ced its eco­no­mic, social and urban deve­lo­p­ment over cen­tu­ries. As a natu­ral trans­por­ta­ti­on rou­te, it con­nec­ted the regi­on with the trade cen­ters in the sou­thern United Sta­tes. Tog­e­ther with the near­by Mis­sou­ri River, it also ope­ned access to lar­ge parts of the North Ame­ri­can interior.

A major port city first emer­ged from a French tra­ding post and later a cen­ter for indus­try, rail traf­fic and inter­sta­te goods trade. The his­to­ric water­front zone, num­e­rous bridges and exten­si­ve rail faci­li­ties docu­ment this trans­for­ma­ti­on to the pre­sent day. At the same time, the Mis­sis­sip­pi makes the region’s dif­fe­rent faces visi­ble: on the wes­tern side lies the urban cen­ter of St. Lou­is in Mis­sou­ri, while on the oppo­si­te bank the trans­port and indus­tri­al faci­li­ties of East St. Lou­is in Illi­noisextend.

Among the his­to­ri­cal­ly most signi­fi­cant sights on the Mis­sis­sip­pi are the Eads Bridgeand the old har­bor dis­trict Laclede’s Landing. Here, one can trace both the begin­nings of the com­mer­cial metro­po­lis and the deve­lo­p­ment of modern trans­port infra­struc­tu­re. His­to­ric brick archi­tec­tu­re, monu­men­tal steel struc­tures and still-used indus­tri­al faci­li­ties form a varied urban land­scape who­se distinc­ti­ve struc­tu­re is also reflec­ted in the num­e­rous pho­to­gra­phic perspectives.

The history of St. Louis – From French founding to Gateway to the West

The Euro­pean sett­le­ment histo­ry of St. Lou­is began in 1764, when the French fur trader Pierre Laclè­de and Augus­te Chou­teaufoun­ded a tra­ding post on the wes­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­pi. They had alre­a­dy cho­sen the loca­ti­on in the autumn of the pre­vious year. An ele­va­ted stretch of ter­rain offe­red com­pa­ra­tively good pro­tec­tion from the river’s regu­lar floo­ding, while the pro­xi­mi­ty to the con­fluence of the Mis­sou­ri and Mis­sis­sip­pi crea­ted favorable con­di­ti­ons for trade with the indi­ge­nous com­mu­ni­ties and the French sett­le­ments of North Ame­ri­ca. The new sett­le­ment was named in honor of the French King Lou­is IX.

Howe­ver, the regi­on had been inha­bi­ted long befo­re the arri­val of Euro­pean trad­ers. Indi­ge­nous cul­tures had shaped the Mis­sis­sip­pi Val­ley for mil­len­niaand estab­lished far-rea­ching trade rela­ti­ons. This is espe­ci­al­ly evi­dent in the pre-Colum­bi­an city of Caho­kia on the pre­sent-day Illi­nois side of the river. The monu­men­tal ear­thworks pre­ser­ved the­re recall one of the most important urban cen­ters in North Ame­ri­ca befo­re Euro­pean colo­niza­ti­on. The histo­ry of St. Lou­is the­r­e­fo­re rea­ches far bey­ond the French foun­ding of the city and is part of a much older cul­tu­ral landscape.

During the Euro­pean colo­ni­al peri­od, poli­ti­cal power rela­ti­ons chan­ged seve­ral times. Alt­hough St. Lou­is was foun­ded by French-spea­king sett­lers, the city was under Spa­nish admi­nis­tra­ti­on for deca­des. A fun­da­men­tal chan­ge was brought by the Loui­sia­na Purcha­se of 1803, through which the United Sta­tes acqui­red a vast ter­ri­to­ry west of the Mis­sis­sip­pi from France. In 1804, St. Lou­is was offi­ci­al­ly pla­ced under Ame­ri­can admi­nis­tra­ti­on. The city sub­se­quent­ly deve­lo­ped incre­asing­ly into a start­ing point for trad­ers, expe­di­ti­ons, and sett­lers moving westward.

St. Lou­is gai­ned par­ti­cu­lar importance in con­nec­tion with the Lewis and Clark Expe­di­ti­on, which set out in 1804 to explo­re the new­ly acqui­red ter­ri­to­ry. The expe­di­ti­on expan­ded the United Sta­tes’ geo­gra­phi­cal know­ledge of wes­tern North Ame­ri­ca and hel­ped trig­ger fur­ther trade and sett­le­ment move­ments. St. Lou­is beca­me an important place for out­fit­ting such ven­tures. Trad­ers, trap­pers, craft­smen, and tra­ve­lers used the city as a sup­p­ly cen­ter befo­re con­ti­nuing their jour­neys along the Mis­sou­ri River or overland.

The eco­no­mic rise was clo­se­ly lin­ked to the expan­si­on of the United Sta­tes, the con­se­quen­ces of which for Indi­ge­nous popu­la­ti­ons were often mark­ed by dis­pla­ce­ment, vio­lence, and the loss of ances­tral home­lands. Also slavery and Afri­can Ame­ri­can histo­ryare inex­tri­ca­bly lin­ked to the deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­is. Ens­laved peo­p­le work­ed, among other places, in con­s­truc­tion, in pri­va­te house­holds, at the port faci­li­ties, and later on the Mis­sis­sip­pi steam­boats. The city’s histo­ry thus encom­pas­ses both eco­no­mic pro­gress and social con­flicts, the effects of which rea­ched far bey­ond the 19th century.

From the ori­gi­nal tra­ding post emer­ged an Ame­ri­can metro­po­lis who­se eco­no­mic and cul­tu­ral signi­fi­can­ce exten­ded far bey­ond Mis­sou­ri. The byna­me still in use today, “Gate­way to the West”recalls St. Louis’s role as a start­ing point for west­ward expan­si­on. This histo­ry is visi­ble not only in the Gate­way Arch, but also in the his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re, trans­port rou­tes, and old com­mer­cial dis­tricts of the city.

Mississippi River – trade, steamboat travel, and industrial development

The eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­is would not have been pos­si­ble wit­hout the Mis­sis­sip­pi Riverhard­ly ima­gi­nable. Tog­e­ther with the Mis­sou­ri River and the Ohio River flowing into it far­ther south, it forms one of the most important inland water­way sys­tems in North Ame­ri­ca. Even during the French colo­ni­al peri­od, mer­chants used the water­ways to trans­port furs, agri­cul­tu­ral pro­ducts, and goods bet­ween the sett­le­ments of the inte­ri­or and the mar­kets in the South. The Mis­sis­sip­pi enab­led exch­an­ge over gre­at distances long befo­re effi­ci­ent roads or rail­road con­nec­tions existed.

A decisi­ve boost to deve­lo­p­ment came in the ear­ly 19th cen­tu­ry with steam­boat traf­fic on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. With the arri­val of the steam­boat Zebu­lon M. Pikein 1817, a new era of river trans­port began for St. Lou­is. Steam­boats could car­ry lar­ger quan­ti­ties of goods and move far more relia­bly against the cur­rent than the keel­boats used pre­vious­ly. Exten­si­ve landing stages, warehou­ses, work­shops, and tra­ding busi­nesses were estab­lished along the river­bank to orga­ni­ze the gro­wing flow of goods.

In the midd­le of the 19th cen­tu­ry, St. Lou­is among the most important inland ports of the United Sta­tes. Steam­boats con­nec­ted the city with New Orleans and the com­mer­cial cen­ters along the Ohio River. Via the Mis­sou­ri River, trans­port and trade links exten­ded far into the Ame­ri­can West. Agri­cul­tu­ral pro­ducts, raw mate­ri­als, and furs were trans­por­ted along the rivers, while manu­fac­tu­red goods, machi­nery, and ever­y­day neces­si­ties found their way into the gro­wing sett­le­ment are­as. The Mis­sis­sip­pi river­bank deve­lo­ped into the eco­no­mic cen­ter of a city who­se pro­spe­ri­ty was based lar­ge­ly on trade and transport.

With the expan­si­on of the Ame­ri­can rail­way net­work, the role of the water­ways chan­ged. While steam­boats con­tin­ued to trans­port lar­ge volu­mes of bulk goods, rail­roads incre­asing­ly took over fast, long-distance freight and pas­sen­ger traf­fic. In St. Lou­is, both modes of trans­port met direct­ly.Port faci­li­ties, rail­way bridges, freight yards, and indus­tri­al are­asfor­med a clo­se­ly inter­con­nec­ted infra­struc­tu­re net­work that deter­mi­ned the city’s eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment for decades.

Indus­tria­liza­ti­on also led to a gro­wing spa­ti­al expan­si­on of com­mer­cial and trans­port are­as. Espe­ci­al­ly along the Mis­sis­sip­pi, trans­ship­ment points emer­ged for grain, coal, buil­ding mate­ri­als, and other bulk goods. Rail con­nec­tions made direct onward trans­port into the inte­ri­or pos­si­ble. The pro­xi­mi­ty of port faci­li­ties and indus­tri­al com­pa­nies crea­ted favorable con­di­ti­ons for busi­nesses that pro­ces­sed lar­ge quan­ti­ties of raw mate­ri­als or ship­ped their pro­ducts over long distances.

To this day, the Mis­sis­sip­pi remains an important eco­no­mic and trans­port cor­ri­dor.Towing con­voys trans­port goods on the river, while grain silos, loa­ding faci­li­ties, and rail­way infra­struc­tu­re shape the river­si­de land­scape. Bet­ween his­to­ric bridges and modern trans­port rou­tes, views of the sky­line of Down­town St. Lou­is open up again and again. The river is far more than a scenic back­drop. It remains part of the infra­struc­tu­re on which the eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment of the enti­re regi­on is based.

It is pre­cis­e­ly the jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of his­to­ric buil­ding fabric, func­tio­ning indus­try and modern urban archi­tec­tu­re that makes the Mis­sis­sip­pi in St. Lou­isa spe­cial pho­to­gra­phic set­ting. Hea­vy freight trains, broad steel bridges, ships and the buil­dings of down­town form an urban land­scape in which the various pha­ses of deve­lo­p­ment stand direct­ly oppo­si­te one another.

Eads Bridge – Historic steel bridge and milestone of American bridge building

Few struc­tures illus­tra­te the con­nec­tion bet­ween tech­ni­cal inno­va­ti­on and the eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­is as cle­ar­ly as the Eads Bridge over the Mis­sis­sip­pi. The bridge, named after its desi­gner James Buchanan EadsThe bridge, named after Eads, was cere­mo­nious­ly ope­ned on July 4, 1874. It was the first fixed bridge crossing over the Mis­sis­sip­pi near St. Lou­is and repre­sen­ted a mile­stone in Ame­ri­can engi­nee­ring. As the first major bridge to use steel as an essen­ti­al load-bea­ring buil­ding mate­ri­al, it influen­ced the fur­ther deve­lo­p­ment of modern bridge construction.

The struc­tu­re con­sists of three mas­si­ve steel arches, which span the Mis­sis­sip­pi bet­ween Mis­sou­ri and Illi­nois. Its load-bea­ring ele­ments rest on mas­si­ve stone piers clad in gra­ni­te, who­se foun­da­ti­ons are ancho­red deep in the river­bed. From the out­set, the bridge was desi­gned for dif­fe­rent modes of trans­port. While the upper level ser­ved road traf­fic, the lower level was inten­ded for rail traf­fic. This arran­ge­ment illus­tra­tes the aim of chan­ne­ling as many dif­fe­rent traf­fic flows as pos­si­ble across a sin­gle fixed river crossing.

The con­s­truc­tion of the Eads Bridge pre­sen­ted the engi­neers with con­sidera­ble tech­ni­cal chal­lenges. The strong cur­rent of the Mis­sis­sip­pi, chan­ging water levels, and dif­fi­cult ground con­di­ti­ons requi­red extra­or­di­na­ry solu­ti­ons. For the foun­da­ti­ons, pneu­ma­tic cais­sons, known as cais­sons, were used. With them, the workers were able to car­ry out the neces­sa­ry foun­da­ti­on work below the water­line. The con­s­truc­tion method was tech­ni­cal­ly advan­ced, but due to the work under high air pres­su­re it also brought signi­fi­cant health risks.

The erec­tion of the lar­ge steel arches was equal­ly deman­ding. Ins­tead of buil­ding con­ti­nuous woo­den fal­se­work in the river, the struc­tu­ral com­pon­ents were assem­bled sec­tion by sec­tion from the piers and sup­port­ed during con­s­truc­tion by a sys­tem of guy cables. This con­s­truc­tion method, excep­tio­nal for its time, made it pos­si­ble to rea­li­ze lar­ge spans and tur­ned the Eads Bridge into an engi­nee­ring land­mark reco­gni­zed internationally.

Its signi­fi­can­ce, howe­ver, was not limi­t­ed to tech­ni­cal inno­va­tions. Befo­re it ope­ned, rail­road cars and goods had to be trans­por­ted by fer­ry across the Mis­sis­sip­pi bet­ween St. Lou­is and East St. Lou­is. The new bridge made a direct con­nec­tion bet­ween the rail net­works on both sides of the river pos­si­ble and thus great­ly impro­ved the con­di­ti­ons for long-distance freight trans­port. It streng­the­ned St. Lou­is as a cen­tral trade and trans­por­ta­ti­on hub bet­ween the eas­tern and wes­tern United Sta­tes.

Today, the Eads Bridge is one of the most important his­to­ric bridges in the USA. On its lower level runs the Metro­Link light rail, which con­nects St. Lou­is with the eas­tern bank. The cha­rac­te­ristic steel arches and their ela­bo­ra­te struc­tu­ral details docu­ment more than 150 years of engi­nee­ring histo­ry. Espe­ci­al­ly along the nor­t­hern River­front, the dif­fe­rent struc­tu­ral ele­ments, the lar­ge stone piers and the mas­si­ve steel con­s­truc­tions can be view­ed from unu­su­al angles.

In addi­ti­on to the Eads Bridge, other his­to­ric and modern Mis­sis­sip­pi bridges shape the city­scape. The Mar­tin Luther King Bridge, form­er­ly known as the Veterans Memo­ri­al Bridge, con­nects the down­towns of St. Lou­is and East St. Lou­is. South of it, among others, the Mac­Ar­thur Bridgeand the Pop­lar Street Bridgethe trans­port net­work. Their dif­fe­rent struc­tu­ral designs show the tech­ni­cal deve­lo­p­ment of Ame­ri­can bridge buil­ding and the gro­wing demands of road and rail traffic.

What is par­ti­cu­lar­ly impres­si­ve is the spa­ti­al con­cen­tra­ti­on of the various trans­port rou­tes. His­to­ric stone via­ducts, steel trus­ses, and mas­si­ve con­cre­te pil­lars stand imme­dia­te­ly bes­i­de freight tracks, roads, and for­mer warehou­ses. Long freight trains pass the bridge struc­tures, while push con­voys and excur­si­on boats tra­vel on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. This com­bi­na­ti­on of indus­tri­al archi­tec­tu­re, trans­port engi­nee­ring, and river­si­de land­scapeshapes one of the most distinc­ti­ve are­as of St. Louis.

Laclede’s Landing – The historic harbor district of St. Louis

Imme­dia­te­ly north of the Gate­way Arch lies Laclede’s Landing, one of the oldest sur­vi­ving dis­tricts of St. Lou­is. This his­to­ric port quar­ter stret­ches bet­ween the Mis­sis­sip­pi and the approa­ches to the Eads Bridge and the Mar­tin Luther King Bridge. Its street lay­out in part still dates back to the ori­gi­nal urban plan­ning of the 18th cen­tu­ry. Unli­ke much of the moder­ni­zed down­town, his­to­ric street­scapes and num­e­rous 19th-cen­tu­ry com­mer­cial and warehouse buil­dings have been pre­ser­ved here.

The deve­lo­p­ment of Laclede’s Landingwas clo­se­ly tied for a long time to trade on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. The buil­dings near the river housed warehou­ses, tra­ding offices, work­shops, and other busi­nesses that bene­fi­ted from the flow of goods through the port city. Goods were deli­ver­ed by ship, stored tem­po­r­a­ri­ly, and trans­por­ted onward via the adjoi­ning streets. The dis­trict for­med an essen­ti­al part of the com­mer­cial infra­struc­tu­re that made St. Lou­is a major Ame­ri­can eco­no­mic cen­ter in the 19th century.

A major tur­ning point was the gre­at fire of 1849. The fire star­ted on a steam­boat on the Mis­sis­sip­pi river­bank and quick­ly spread through the den­se­ly built-up dock and busi­ness dis­tricts. Lar­ge parts of the down­town area of that time were des­troy­ed. During the sub­se­quent recon­s­truc­tion, grea­ter empha­sis was pla­ced on more resi­li­ent mate­ri­als such as brick and iron. Many of the buil­dings still pre­ser­ved today in Laclede’s Landing date from this peri­od of eco­no­mic reco­very and from the fol­lo­wing decades.

Cha­rac­te­ristic of the dis­trict are the his­to­ric brick faça­des, cob­ble­s­tone streets, and cast-iron archi­tec­tu­ral ele­ments. Many buil­dings fea­ture lar­ge win­dow ope­nings, deco­ra­ti­ve cor­nices, and the mul­ti-sto­ry con­s­truc­tion typi­cal of com­mer­cial and warehouse buil­dings. Part­ly pre­ser­ved wall adver­ti­se­ments recall ear­lier com­pa­nies and the com­mer­cial use of the buil­dings. Espe­ci­al­ly along North Second Streetit beco­mes clear how clo­se­ly trade, com­mer­ce, and trans­port were lin­ked in the ori­gi­nal port city.

The his­to­ric street spaces stand in striking con­trast to the lar­ge bridge struc­tures that bor­der the dis­trict and in some places rise abo­ve it. The mas­si­ve stone arches of the approach via­ducts, the steel struc­tures of the bridges, and the rail­way faci­li­ties still in use recall the pro­found trans­for­ma­ti­on of the urban infra­struc­tu­re. At the same time, the rela­tively nar­row streets and their clo­sed rows of hou­ses con­vey an impres­si­on of the spa­ti­al dimen­si­ons of the 19th-cen­tu­ry tra­ding city.

With the eco­no­mic struc­tu­ral chan­ge of the 20th cen­tu­ry, Laclede’s Landing lost a lar­ge part of its ori­gi­nal signi­fi­can­ce as a warehouse and com­mer­cial loca­ti­on. Modern freight traf­fic incre­asing­ly shifted to lar­ger indus­tri­al and trans­ship­ment are­as out­side the his­to­ric city cen­ter. Sin­ce the 1970s, the dis­trict has been gra­du­al­ly ope­ned up for new uses. For­mer warehou­ses were con­ver­ted into restau­rants, offices, and event spaces, among other things. In the year In 1976, Laclede’s Landing was added to the Natio­nal Regis­ter of His­to­ric Places, offi­ci­al­ly reco­gni­zing the district’s his­to­ric and archi­tec­tu­ral significance.

Today, Laclede’s Landing is one of the few are­as of Down­town St. Lou­iswhe­re the histo­ry of the for­mer tra­ding and port city can still be seen direct­ly in the street­scape. Bet­ween the brick faça­des, the cob­ble­s­tone streets, and the impo­sing bridge struc­tures, the­re is a striking con­trast to the modern sky­line. The per­spec­ti­ves along Second Street, with views of the Eads Bridge, in par­ti­cu­lar illus­tra­te the coexis­tence of his­to­ric buil­ding fabric and lar­ge-sca­le trans­port infrastructure.

For pho­to­gra­phy, the dis­trict offers an unu­sual­ly ver­sa­ti­le com­bi­na­ti­on of his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re, urban details, and indus­tri­al­ly shaped per­spec­ti­ves. Old faça­des, street lamps, wall adver­ti­se­ments, and bridge struc­tures form a cohe­si­ve urban sce­ne that makes St. Louis’s deve­lo­p­ment under­stan­da­ble. Laclede’s Landing thus con­veys an impres­si­on of the city who­se eco­no­mic rise once began direct­ly on the banks of the Mississippi.

Gateway Arch in St. Louis

Hell beleuchteter Gateway Arch über dem gläsernen Westzugang des Besucherzentrums, mit sichtbaren Lichtstrahlen, Rasenflächen und dunklen Baumreihen.

Architecture, history and the gateway to the West

The Gate­way Arch in St. Lou­isis one of the best-known land­marks in the United Sta­tes and, with its monu­men­tal steel struc­tu­re, defi­nes the sky­line of the city on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. The 192-meter-high arch was com­ple­ted in 1965 and recalls St. Louis’s his­to­ric role as the start­ing point of Ame­ri­can west­ward expan­si­on. Its extra­or­di­na­ry shape, the gle­a­ming stain­less-steel sur­face, and its imme­dia­te loca­ti­on on the river make it one of the most distinc­ti­ve archi­tec­tu­ral monu­ments in North America.

The Gate­way Arch was desi­gned by the Fin­nish-Ame­ri­can archi­tect Eero Saa­r­i­nen, who­se design pre­vai­led in a nati­on­wi­de archi­tec­tu­re com­pe­ti­ti­on in 1947/1948. The struc­tu­re com­bi­nes the sym­bo­lic mea­ning of an open gate with the tech­ni­cal pos­si­bi­li­ties of modern engi­nee­ring. Two powerful legs tape­ring upward form a clo­sed arch that rises far abo­ve the Mis­sis­sip­pi river landscape.

Today the monu­ment forms the cen­ter­pie­ce of the Gate­way Arch Natio­nal Park, which also includes an under­ground muse­um and the his­to­ric Old Court­house. An extra­or­di­na­ry trans­por­ta­ti­on sys­tem takes visi­tors insi­de the arch to an obser­va­ti­on deck, offe­ring swee­ping views of down­town St. Lou­is, the Mis­sis­sip­pi River, and neigh­bor­ing Illi­nois. At the same time, the Gate­way Arch offers a varie­ty of unu­su­al pho­to­gra­phic sub­jects through its geo­me­tric archi­tec­tu­re and the chan­ging effects of light and perspective.

Gateway Arch – A Monument to American Westward Expansion

The idea for a monu­men­tal memo­ri­al on the Mis­sis­sip­pi aro­se in the 1930s, when St. Lou­is was loo­king for ways to high­light its his­to­ri­cal signi­fi­can­ce while also upgrading the eco­no­mic­al­ly wea­k­en­ed down­town area. In par­ti­cu­lar, the lawy­er and urban plan­ner Luther Ely Smithadvo­ca­ted for the estab­lish­ment of a natio­nal memo­ri­al. It was inten­ded to com­me­mo­ra­te the city’s role in the ter­ri­to­ri­al expan­si­on of the United Sta­tes and trans­form the his­to­ric river­front into a repre­sen­ta­ti­ve public space.

In the year 1935, the Jef­fer­son Natio­nal Expan­si­on Memo­ri­al was estab­lisheddedi­ca­ted to the Ame­ri­can pre­si­dent Tho­mas Jef­fer­son and the ope­ning up of the West. With the Loui­sia­na Purcha­se of 1803, Jef­fer­son had made the acqui­si­ti­on of a vast ter­ri­to­ry west of the Mis­sis­sip­pi pos­si­ble. The sub­se­quent Lewis and Clark Expe­di­ti­on, which set out from the St. Lou­is regi­on in 1804, made a major con­tri­bu­ti­on to the geo­gra­phi­cal explo­ra­ti­on of the­se are­as. In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, St. Lou­is deve­lo­ped into an important start­ing point for trad­ers, tra­ve­lers, and sett­lers hea­ding west.

The crea­ti­on of the memo­ri­al was at the same time part of a com­pre­hen­si­ve urban rede­ve­lo­p­ment pro­ject. In the area of the his­to­ric river­front, num­e­rous older com­mer­cial and warehouse buil­dings were demo­lished. In total, the pro­ject encom­pas­sed around 40 blocks of the for­mer down­town area. The exten­si­ve clea­ring was inten­ded to make room for a monu­men­tal park and to res­ha­pe the con­nec­tion bet­ween the city cen­ter and the Mis­sis­sip­pi. This fun­da­men­tal­ly chan­ged the appearance of the his­to­ric riverfront.

After the Second World War, a nati­on­wi­de com­pe­ti­ti­on was announ­ced for the archi­tec­tu­ral design of the site. The goal was a struc­tu­re that would sym­bo­li­ze the his­to­ri­cal signi­fi­can­ce of west­ward expan­si­on and at the same time ser­ve as a wide­ly visi­ble land­mark of the city. The design by the archi­tect Eero Saa­r­i­nenpre­vai­led in 1948 against num­e­rous com­pe­ting pro­po­sals. Ins­tead of a clas­sic monu­ment with colum­ns, sta­tu­es, or monu­men­tal buil­ding faca­des, Saa­r­i­nen pro­po­sed a huge, free­stan­ding steel arch.

The sym­bo­lic effect of his design was deli­bera­te­ly simp­le. The Gate­way Arch as the “Gate­way to the West”was inten­ded to repre­sent a gate­way through which the view opens from the Mis­sis­sip­pi toward the west. In this way, Saa­r­i­nen took up St. Louis’s his­to­ri­cal role as a start­ing point of Ame­ri­can expan­si­on wit­hout resort­ing to a tra­di­tio­nal monu­men­tal visu­al lan­guage. At the same time, the tech­ni­cal moder­ni­ty of the struc­tu­re was meant to embo­dy the spi­rit of pro­gress of the 20th century.

The memo­ry of west­ward expan­si­on is view­ed more dif­fer­ent­ly today than at the time the monu­ment was crea­ted. The ter­ri­to­ri­al expan­si­on of the United Sta­tes brought eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment, new trans­port rou­tes, and num­e­rous sett­le­ments. At the same time, for many Indi­ge­nous com­mu­ni­ties it led to dis­pla­ce­ment, vio­lence, and the loss of their ances­tral living spaces. The spread of slavery into the wes­tern ter­ri­to­ries also belongs to this histo­ry. The Gate­way Arch the­r­e­fo­re stands for a his­to­ri­cal pro­cess who­se eco­no­mic and poli­ti­cal con­se­quen­ces are just as signi­fi­cant as its social contradictions.

The­se dif­fe­rent per­spec­ti­ves are addres­sed in the Muse­um at the Gate­way Arch. The under­ground muse­um covers the histo­ry of St. Lou­is from the French foun­ding of the city in 1764 to the com­ple­ti­on of the monu­ment in 1965. Its exhi­bi­ti­ons deal with the Indi­ge­nous cul­tures of the regi­on, Ame­ri­can expan­si­on, the histo­ry of the Mis­sis­sip­pi, and the crea­ti­on of the Gate­way Arch.

Sin­ce 2018, the for­mer Jef­fer­son Natio­nal Expan­si­on Memo­ri­al has offi­ci­al­ly bor­ne the name Gate­way Arch Natio­nal Park. The ren­aming under­lines the importance of the enti­re site as a his­to­ric memo­ri­al and public urban space. The Gate­way Arch is not only St. Louis’s archi­tec­tu­ral land­mark, but also an expres­si­on of an important chap­ter in Ame­ri­can history.

Eero Saarinen and the architecture of the Gateway Arch – 192 meters of stainless steel

The Gate­way Archis con­side­red one of the most signi­fi­cant works of the Fin­nish-Ame­ri­can archi­tect Eero Saa­r­i­nen. Its design dif­fers fun­da­men­tal­ly from clas­si­cal monu­ments and sky­scra­pers. Ins­tead of a mas­si­ve buil­ding struc­tu­re, Saa­r­i­nen deve­lo­ped a cur­ved form tape­ring upward, who­se exter­nal appearance is enti­re­ly deter­mi­ned by its geo­me­tric con­s­truc­tion. The monu­ment is also 192 meters high and 192 meters wideand is one of the most extra­or­di­na­ry engi­nee­ring struc­tures in the United States.

The cha­rac­te­ristic sil­hou­et­te is based on a mathe­ma­ti­cal­ly defi­ned inver­ted, weigh­ted caten­ary cur­ve, known in Eng­lish as weigh­ted caten­ary cur­ve. A con­ven­tio­nal caten­ary cur­ve is for­med when a uni­form­ly weigh­ted chain hangs free­ly bet­ween two sus­pen­si­on points. When this shape is inver­ted and the load dis­tri­bu­ti­on adjus­ted accor­din­gly, an arch struc­tu­re favorable for com­pres­si­ve forces results. At the Gate­way Arch, this mathe­ma­ti­cal prin­ci­ple was trans­fer­red to the cross-sec­tions tape­ring upward.

The two legs have an equi­la­te­ral tri­an­gu­lar cross-sec­tion, who­se side length at the base is around 16.5 meters. Toward the top, this value decrea­ses to about 5.2 meters. This makes the struc­tu­re appear remar­kab­ly slen­der despi­te its enorm­ous dimen­si­ons. The tri­an­gu­lar geo­me­try is not only a design ele­ment, but an essen­ti­al part of the struc­tu­ral concept.

Ano­ther spe­cial fea­ture lies in the load-bea­ring struc­tu­re. Unli­ke many sky­scra­pers, the Gate­way Arch does not have a con­ven­tio­nal inter­nal steel frame. Its sta­bi­li­ty is lar­ge­ly crea­ted by the inter­con­nec­ted inner and outer steel walls. The outer shell is made of stain­less steel, while car­bon steel was used for the inner load-bea­ring shell. In the lower sec­tions, the space bet­ween is addi­tio­nal­ly fil­led with rein­forced con­cre­te. The struc­tu­re thus com­bi­nes the outer form direct­ly with its struc­tu­ral function.

The gle­a­ming stain­less-steel sur­face shapes the appearance of the struc­tu­re. Its effect chan­ges signi­fi­cant­ly depen­ding on the wea­ther, the posi­ti­on of the sun, and the vie­w­ing ang­le. In direct sun­light, the sur­faces reflect the light par­ti­cu­lar­ly inten­se­ly, while on over­cast days they appear noti­ce­ab­ly dul­ler. The slight­ly alte­red angles of the indi­vi­du­al struc­tu­ral ele­ments crea­te a dif­fe­ren­tia­ted inter­play of light and dark reflec­tions. The see­mingly simp­le sur­face thus reve­als a sur­pri­sin­gly com­plex structure.

Con­s­truc­tion work actual­ly began 1963, after exten­si­ve plan­ning and struc­tu­ral cal­cu­la­ti­ons had been com­ple­ted. First, the mas­si­ve foun­da­ti­ons had to be built, exten­ding about 18 meters into the ground and in part ancho­red direct­ly in bed­rock. The two legs were then assem­bled from pre­fa­bri­ca­ted steel seg­ments. The indi­vi­du­al sec­tions were lifted into posi­ti­on with spe­cial cra­nes and joi­n­ed together.

The con­s­truc­tion of the upper arch seg­ments was par­ti­cu­lar­ly deman­ding. As the height increased, the two legs moved clo­ser tog­e­ther, while the loads from their own weight, wind, and tem­pe­ra­tu­re fluc­tua­tions had to be pre­cis­e­ly taken into account. Tem­po­r­a­ri­ly, a mas­si­ve steel cross­beam con­nec­ted the two arch legs and sta­bi­li­zed the struc­tu­re during the final con­s­truc­tion pha­se. The exact ali­gnment of the clo­sing seg­ments requi­red exten­si­ve mea­su­re­ments and careful coor­di­na­ti­on of the assem­bly work.

On Octo­ber 28, 1965, the last com­po­nent was instal­ledand the Gate­way Arch was thus extern­al­ly com­ple­ted. Saa­r­i­nen hims­elf did not live to see his design com­ple­ted, as he had alre­a­dy died in 1961. Com­ple­ti­on was car­ri­ed out by the team of archi­tects and engi­neers invol­ved, who had tech­ni­cal­ly imple­men­ted his design specifications.

The result was a struc­tu­re who­se exte­ri­or sim­pli­ci­ty con­ce­als an enorm­ous amount of engi­nee­ring effort. The clear arch shape, the reflec­ti­ve stain­less-steel sur­face, and the monu­men­tal dimen­si­ons give the Gate­way Arch a uni­que place within modern Ame­ri­can archi­tec­tu­re. At the same time, the struc­tu­re is desi­gned to with­stand signi­fi­cant wind loads and other exter­nal influen­ces. Even in strong gusts, the top can move within the struc­tu­ral­ly inten­ded limits wit­hout impai­ring the monument’s stability.

The Gate­way Arch thus com­bi­nes modern archi­tec­tu­re, mathe­ma­ti­cal pre­cis­i­on, and extra­or­di­na­ry engi­nee­ring skill. Espe­ci­al­ly from very clo­se up, it beco­mes clear how stron­gly its effect chan­ges with per­spec­ti­ve. While the arch appears as a clo­sed geo­me­tric form from a grea­ter distance, the immense dimen­si­ons of the steel legs and the unu­su­al cur­vat­u­re of the struc­tu­re domi­na­te beneath it.

Gateway Arch Tram – With the capsule to the observation platform above St. Louis

Among the most unu­su­al fea­tures of the Gate­way Arch is the trans­port sys­tem that car­ri­es visi­tors insi­de the two legs of the arch up to the obser­va­ti­on deck. Becau­se the steel struc­tu­re has no straight ver­ti­cal shafts and its cross-sec­tion nar­rows shar­ply toward the top, con­ven­tio­nal ele­va­tors could not be used. The desi­gners the­r­e­fo­re nee­ded a tech­ni­cal solu­ti­on that fol­lows the cur­ve of the arch while also enab­ling safe transport.

The sys­tem was deve­lo­ped by engi­neer Richard “Dick” Bow­ser, who com­bi­ned various tech­ni­cal approa­ches. His design com­bi­nes the basic cha­rac­te­ristics of an ele­va­tor with the prin­ci­ple of sus­pen­ded gon­do­las, as used on a Fer­ris wheel. Ins­tead of a sin­gle lar­ge pas­sen­ger car, small, inter­con­nec­ted cap­su­les tra­vel on a rail sys­tem insi­de the legs of the arch.

Each of the two sys­tems con­sists of eight cap­su­les with five seats each. This means a com­ple­te cap­su­le train can car­ry up to 40 peo­p­le. The cylind­ri­cal cab­ins are rela­tively com­pact and move upward along the cur­ved track. During the ride, the cap­su­les are gra­du­al­ly rota­ted by a mecha­nism so that the pas­sen­gers’ sea­ting posi­ti­on remains lar­ge­ly upright despi­te the chan­ging incli­ne of the arch.

The The ride to the top of the Gate­way Arch takes about four minu­tes, and the des­cent about three minu­tes. The trans­port sys­tem was put into ope­ra­ti­on in 1967 and remains an essen­ti­al attrac­tion of the monu­ment to this day. Through the trans­pa­rent cabin doors, visi­tors can see parts of the inter­nal steel struc­tu­re and the tech­ni­cal equip­ment during the ride. The jour­ney thus con­veys an unu­su­al impres­si­on of the inte­ri­or of a struc­tu­re that appears almost com­ple­te­ly enc­lo­sed from the outside.

At the hig­hest point of the arch is a long, slight­ly cur­ved obser­va­ti­on plat­form. The Obser­va­ti­on Deck of the Gate­way Archis loca­ted about 192 meters abo­ve the ground and has a total of 32 nar­row win­dows on both sides. Their arran­ge­ment pro­vi­des views to the west of down­town St. Lou­is and to the east of the Mis­sis­sip­pi and the sta­te of Illinois.

The view to the west shows the spa­ti­al struc­tu­re of Down­town St. Lou­ispar­ti­cu­lar­ly cle­ar­ly. Direct­ly beneath the arch lies the expan­si­ve park­land of Gate­way Arch Natio­nal Park. Bey­ond that rises the his­to­ric Old Court­housewith its distinc­ti­ve dome. The buil­ding forms a striking con­trast to the modern high-rises and the lar­ge-sca­le street grid of the down­town area.

Fur­ther to the sou­thwest, one can also make out the Busch Sta­di­um, public buil­dings and the traf­fic arte­ries of Down­town. To the west and nor­thwest, the view extends over office buil­dings, streets and exten­si­ve neigh­bor­hoods far into the sur­roun­ding regi­on. The view makes clear how stron­gly St. Lou­is has expan­ded sin­ce its foun­ding on the Mis­sis­sip­pi and what signi­fi­can­ce the his­to­ric trans­por­ta­ti­on rou­tes have for the city’s development.

On the oppo­si­te side, a com­ple­te­ly dif­fe­rent sce­ne opens up. The Mis­sis­sip­pi Riverforms the bor­der bet­ween Mis­sou­ri and Illi­nois and is span­ned by num­e­rous road and rail­way bridges. On the eas­tern bank lie the indus­tri­al and trans­port are­as of East St. Lou­is. Freight yards, grain silos, port faci­li­ties and exten­si­ve high­way inter­ch­an­ges shape the land­scape. Espe­ci­al­ly striking is the jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of river, rail and modern trans­port infrastructure.

The view from the Gate­way Arch offers more than an over­view of well-known sights. It makes the eco­no­mic and geo­gra­phic deve­lo­p­ment of the enti­re regi­on under­stan­da­ble. On one side stret­ches the his­to­ric and modern cen­ter of St. Lou­is; on the other, indus­tri­al faci­li­ties and trans­port rou­tes domi­na­te. In bet­ween flows the Mis­sis­sip­pi, which for cen­tu­ries for­med the foun­da­ti­on for the city’s rise.

Below the monu­ment is the Muse­um at the Gate­way Arch, which is acces­si­ble via the under­ground visi­tor area. The exhi­bi­ti­ons com­ple­ment the ride to the obser­va­ti­on deck with the his­to­ri­cal back­ground of the city’s foun­ding, Ame­ri­can west­ward expan­si­on and the con­s­truc­tion of the monu­ment. Abo­ve all, the com­bi­na­ti­on of muse­um, his­to­ric park­land and view allows a com­pre­hen­si­ve under­stan­ding of the signi­fi­can­ce of the Gate­way Arch for St. Louis.

Photographing the Gateway Arch – architecture, light and exceptional perspectives

The Gate­way Arch in St. Lou­isis one of the most inte­res­t­ing archi­tec­tu­ral sub­jects in the Ame­ri­can Mid­west. Its clear geo­me­tric form, monu­men­tal dimen­si­ons, and reflec­ti­ve stain­less-steel sur­face offer num­e­rous pos­si­bi­li­ties for depic­ting the struc­tu­re from dif­fe­rent per­spec­ti­ves. Its effect chan­ges signi­fi­cant­ly depen­ding on the viewer’s posi­ti­on, the distance from the monu­ment, and the pre­vai­ling light­ing conditions.

From a grea­ter distance, the arch appears as a clo­sed, almost gra­phic form that stands out cle­ar­ly from the sur­roun­ding urban land­scape. Espe­ci­al­ly from the oppo­si­te river­front are­as in East St. Lou­isthe Gate­way Arch can be pho­to­gra­phed tog­e­ther with the down­town sky­line. The Mis­sis­sip­pi forms the fore­ground and illus­tra­tes the geo­gra­phic rela­ti­onship bet­ween the monu­ment, the city, and its his­to­ric trans­por­ta­ti­on route.

The streets of the down­town area also offer cha­rac­te­ristic per­spec­ti­ves. Bet­ween the high-rises and along the major traf­fic arte­ries, the Gate­way Arch repea­ted­ly appears as a striking part of the city­scape. The vary­ing buil­ding heights and faca­de struc­tures crea­te a con­trast to the cur­ved steel con­s­truc­tion. Espe­ci­al­ly in com­bi­na­ti­on with the Old Court­houseit crea­tes a jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of his­to­ric and modern archi­tec­tu­re that is cha­rac­te­ristic of down­town St. Louis.

From very clo­se up, the per­cep­ti­on of the struc­tu­re chan­ges fun­da­men­tal­ly. The indi­vi­du­al arch legs appear signi­fi­cant­ly more mas­si­ve, while the upper cur­ve incre­asing­ly escapes the fami­li­ar per­spec­ti­ve becau­se of the steep vie­w­ing ang­le. Pho­to­graphs taken direct­ly beneath the Gate­way Arch the­r­e­fo­re empha­si­ze less its func­tion as an urban land­mark and ins­tead its unu­su­al geo­me­tric pro­per­ties. The steel sur­faces con­ver­ging toward one ano­ther, the tape­ring cross-sec­tions, and the almost abs­tract lines crea­te distinct archi­tec­tu­ral compositions.

A spe­cial role is play­ed by the stain­less-steel sur­face of the Gate­way Arch. Depen­ding on the posi­ti­on of the sun, strong reflec­tions of light occur, making indi­vi­du­al sec­tions of the arch appear almost white. Other sur­faces, by con­trast, take on the colors of the sky or rece­de cle­ar­ly due to their lower con­trast. As a result, the monument’s appearance chan­ges con­ti­nuous­ly over the cour­se of a day.

When the sun is low, the Gate­way Arch can appear as a gle­a­ming out­line against the sky. The warm colors of the evening light then con­trast with the cool effect of the stain­less steel. Espe­ci­al­ly appe­al­ing is the inter­play with the modern high-rises of down­town, who­se glass faca­des also reflect the sun­light. In this way, the arch beco­mes part of a mul­ti­laye­red city­scape made up of dif­fe­rent mate­ri­als, forms, and light­ing moods.

The blue hour and night pho­to­gra­phyalso open up inte­res­t­ing crea­ti­ve pos­si­bi­li­ties. As dark­ness increa­ses, the reflec­ti­ve sur­face loses its con­nec­tion to the colors of the sky, while the arti­fi­ci­al light­ing empha­si­zes the arch’s cha­rac­te­ristic shape. The Gate­way Arch then appears as a bright, clo­sed out­line against the dark back­ground. Espe­ci­al­ly from the west, the illu­mi­na­ted struc­tu­re forms a striking focal point within the expan­si­ve park area.

The night­ti­me illu­mi­na­ti­on empha­si­zes the sym­me­try of the struc­tu­re and makes its archi­tec­tu­ral form stand out par­ti­cu­lar­ly cle­ar­ly. At the same time, the light­ing instal­la­ti­ons within and beneath the arch crea­te addi­tio­nal struc­tures that beco­me visi­ble depen­ding on the per­spec­ti­ve. The rela­ti­onship bet­ween the monu­men­tal steel con­s­truc­tion and the com­pa­ra­tively small visi­tors, paths, and buil­dings in its sur­roun­dings high­lights the true dimen­si­ons of the monument.

In addi­ti­on to the clas­sic over­all views, archi­tec­tu­ral details also offer inde­pen­dent pho­to­gra­phic motifs. The regu­lar lines of the stain­less-steel clad­ding, the nar­row win­dow ope­nings of the obser­va­ti­on deck, and the chan­ges in the cross-sec­tion can be obser­ved from dif­fe­rent view­points. In the pro­cess, the struc­tu­re can appear incre­asing­ly abs­tract wit­hout its ori­gi­nal form having to remain ful­ly recognizable.

The spe­cial pho­to­gra­phic appeal of the Gate­way Arch the­r­e­fo­re lies not only in its func­tion as a land­mark of St. Lou­is. Rather, it com­bi­nes extra­or­di­na­ry geo­me­tric archi­tec­tu­re with the chan­ging effect of natu­ral and arti­fi­ci­al light. Whe­ther as part of the sky­line, as a monu­men­tal struc­tu­re from below, or as an illu­mi­na­ted arch against the night sky, the Gate­way Arch offers diver­se oppor­tu­ni­ties to cap­tu­re the archi­tec­tu­re and cha­rac­ter of the city from dif­fe­rent perspectives.

Historic Downtown St. Louis

Old Courthouse in St. Louis in Eckansicht mit grüner Kuppel und Säulenportikus, davor eine Kreuzung und dahinter ein gläsernes Hochhaus.

Architecture, urban history and American heritage

The Down­town St. Lou­is in Mis­sou­ricom­bi­nes more than two cen­tu­ries of Ame­ri­can urban and archi­tec­tu­ral histo­ry. Bet­ween modern sky­scra­pers, his­to­ric admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­dings, and for­mer com­mer­cial buil­dings, it is pos­si­ble to trace the dif­fe­rent pha­ses of deve­lo­p­ment of a city that was among the most important eco­no­mic cen­ters of the United Sta­tes in the 19th cen­tu­ry. The monu­men­tal public buil­dings around Mar­ket Street in par­ti­cu­lar recall a time when St. Lou­is expres­sed its eco­no­mic rise through repre­sen­ta­ti­ve archi­tec­tu­re as well.

Among the most important his­to­ri­cal sights of Down­town St. Lou­isis the Old Court­house. With its wide­ly visi­ble dome, it is one of the most distinc­ti­ve buil­dings down­town and was the site of important court cases invol­ving slavery and civil rights. In addi­ti­on, City Hall, the Old Post Office, and the Civil Courts Buil­ding docu­ment the deve­lo­p­ment of public admi­nis­tra­ti­on and the archi­tec­tu­ral ide­as of dif­fe­rent eras.

The his­to­ric city­scape is com­ple­men­ted by num­e­rous other buil­dings. Thea­ters, for­mer com­mer­cial buil­dings, rich­ly deco­ra­ted faca­des, and modern office buil­dings often stand right next to one ano­ther. Par­ti­cu­lar­ly along Mar­ket Street, Washing­ton Ave­nue, and the adja­cent streets, a varied jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of his­to­ric buil­ding fabric, modern archi­tec­tu­re, and urban ever­y­day life. Down­town St. Lou­is thus con­veys a mul­ti­face­ted impres­si­on of the eco­no­mic, social, and cul­tu­ral deve­lo­p­ment of the Ame­ri­can metropolis.

Old Courthouse – Historic Landmark and Center of American Legal History

The Old Court­house in St. Lou­isis one of the city’s most important his­to­ric buil­dings and, with its distinc­ti­ve dome, forms a cle­ar­ly visi­ble land­mark in Down­town. Loca­ted imme­dia­te­ly west of the Gate­way Arch, the for­mer court­house stands at a place whe­re the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve archi­tec­tu­re of the 19th cen­tu­ry and the modern city­scape meet direct­ly. Its neo­clas­si­cal design, monu­men­tal colon­na­de archi­tec­tu­re, and cen­tral dome give it a spe­cial place among the his­to­ric sights of St. Louis.

The crea­ti­on of the pre­sent buil­ding goes back to the rapid growth of the city during the first half of the 19th cen­tu­ry. The ori­gi­nal court­house of 1828 soon pro­ved too small for the incre­asing admi­nis­tra­ti­ve and judi­cial tasks. The­r­e­fo­re, con­s­truc­tion of a lar­ger court­house began in 1839, desi­gned by archi­tect Hen­ry Sin­gle­ton. The new com­plex fol­lo­wed a cru­ci­form flo­or plan with a cen­tral rotun­da. While some parts of the buil­ding were alre­a­dy in use from 1845, the expan­si­on and remo­de­ling work con­tin­ued for many years.

The Old Court­house acqui­red its final form with the com­ple­ti­on of its lar­ge dome in 1862. Archi­tect Wil­liam Rum­bold desi­gned an ela­bo­ra­te iron struc­tu­re that made the buil­ding stand cle­ar­ly abo­ve the sur­roun­ding deve­lo­p­ment. At a height of around 59 meters, the court­house was among the tal­lest struc­tures in the city for deca­des. The com­bi­na­ti­on of clas­si­cal faça­de design and a monu­men­tal dome was mode­led on the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve govern­ment buil­dings of the United Sta­tes and reflec­ted the gro­wing self-con­fi­dence of the eco­no­mic­al­ly rising metropolis.

The archi­tec­tu­ral struc­tu­re of the exte­ri­or faça­des is par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking. Monu­men­tal colum­ns, gene­rous front steps, and cle­ar­ly arti­cu­la­ted win­dow axes empha­si­ze the public cha­rac­ter of the buil­ding. The cen­tral dome unites the dif­fe­rent wings into a coher­ent over­all com­po­si­ti­on. Insi­de is a mul­ti-sto­ry rotun­da, who­se gal­le­ries and his­to­ri­cal wall pain­tings are among the courthouse’s signi­fi­cant archi­tec­tu­ral ele­ments. The design was inten­ded not only to meet the requi­re­ments of a court­house, but also to make the aut­ho­ri­ty and importance of public insti­tu­ti­ons visible.

The Old Court­house was, howe­ver, much more than a repre­sen­ta­ti­ve admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­ding. For deca­des, it for­med a cen­tral place in the poli­ti­cal and social life of St. Lou­is. Public assem­blies were held in its rooms, eco­no­mic and poli­ti­cal issues were dis­cus­sed, and court cases were heard who­se signi­fi­can­ce exten­ded far bey­ond the city limits. In par­ti­cu­lar, the dis­pu­tes over slavery, per­so­nal free­dom, and civil rightsmade the buil­ding an important site in Ame­ri­can legal history.

Until 1930, the Old Court­house was used as a court­house. It sub­se­quent­ly lost its ori­gi­nal func­tion and was later incor­po­ra­ted into the natio­nal memo­ri­al on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. Today it belongs to Gate­way Arch Natio­nal Park and, with res­to­red his­to­ric rooms and muse­um exhi­bits, offers insight into the legal and social histo­ry of the United Sta­tes. After exten­si­ve reno­va­ti­on, the buil­ding reope­ned to visi­tors in May 2025.

The spe­cial stan­ding of the Old Court­house is also evi­dent from its loca­ti­on within the city. Seen from the east, the his­to­ric dome rises direct­ly in front of the modern buil­dings of down­town. From other view­points, it appears in com­bi­na­ti­on with the Gate­way Arch, who­se monu­men­tal steel struc­tu­re forms a strong archi­tec­tu­ral con­trast. It is pre­cis­e­ly this jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of clas­si­cal archi­tec­tu­re and modern urban deve­lo­p­mentthat makes the Old Court­house one of the most cha­rac­te­ristic buil­dings in St. Louis.

Dred Scott, Freedom Suits and the Struggle for Civil Rights

The his­to­ri­cal signi­fi­can­ce of the Old Court­house is inex­tri­ca­bly lin­ked to one of the most con­se­quen­ti­al court cases in Ame­ri­can histo­ry. In 1846, Dred and Har­riet Scott filed suits in St. Lou­is see­king their free­dom from slavery. The case deve­lo­ped through seve­ral levels of juris­dic­tion into a fun­da­men­tal dis­pu­te over the legal sta­tus of ens­laved peo­p­le and the spread of slavery in the United States.

Dred Scott was an ens­laved Afri­can Ame­ri­can who had lived for a time with his for­mer owner in are­as whe­re slavery was pro­hi­bi­ted. Tog­e­ther with his wife Har­riet, he invo­ked the legal prac­ti­ce of the time, accor­ding to which a lon­ger stay in a free sta­te or ter­ri­to­ry could under cer­tain con­di­ti­ons estab­lish a cla­im to free­dom. The two hoped to assert their per­so­nal free­dom through the courts.

The case was initi­al­ly heard in the courts in St. Lou­is. After an initi­al tri­al in 1847 and fur­ther pro­cee­dings, the cou­ple was initi­al­ly gran­ted a favorable ruling in 1850 by a court in Mis­sou­ri. Howe­ver, the decis­i­on was appea­led. The Supre­me Court of Mis­sou­ri over­tur­ned the ruling in 1852 and ther­eby rejec­ted the pre­vious case law that had led to the release of ens­laved peo­p­le in com­pa­ra­ble cases. The legal dis­pu­te was then con­tin­ued at the fede­ral level and ulti­m­ate­ly rea­ched the Supre­me Court of the United States.

With the Dred Scott decis­i­on of 1857, the Supre­me Court issued a ruling that is among the most con­tro­ver­si­al in Ame­ri­can legal histo­ry. Among other things, the Court declared that peo­p­le of Afri­can des­cent who­se ances­tors had been brought to the United Sta­tes as slaves could not, under its then inter­pre­ta­ti­on of the Con­sti­tu­ti­on, be Ame­ri­can citi­zens. At the same time, the decis­i­on cal­led into ques­ti­on Congress’s aut­ho­ri­ty to pro­hi­bit slavery in cer­tain fede­ral territories.

The ruling signi­fi­cant­ly inten­si­fied the poli­ti­cal ten­si­ons bet­ween the nor­t­hern and sou­thern sta­tes. It streng­the­ned the inte­rests of slavehol­ders while also pro­vo­king fier­ce cri­ti­cism from oppon­ents of slavery. The dis­pu­tes over the legal and poli­ti­cal future of slavery were among the cen­tral con­flicts that would lead to the Ame­ri­can Civil War a few years later. Dred and Har­riet Scott ulti­m­ate­ly recei­ved their per­so­nal free­dom later in 1857 through man­u­mis­si­on, regard­less of the Supre­me Court’s nega­ti­ve ruling.

The Scott spou­ses’ case was by no means the only free­dom lawsu­it in St. Lou­is. Bet­ween 1814 and 1860, more than 300 so-cal­led Free­dom Suitswere docu­men­ted in the city. The­se were lawsuits brought by ens­laved peo­p­le who sought to obtain their free­dom or the free­dom of their rela­ti­ves through legal means. The sur­vi­ving court records today form an important his­to­ri­cal source on the living con­di­ti­ons of ens­laved peo­p­le, the legal situa­ti­on in Mis­sou­ri, and the social con­flicts befo­re the Civil War.

Today, this histo­ry is com­me­mo­ra­ted by the Free­dom Suits Memo­ri­alin the Civil Courts Buil­ding area. The bron­ze sculp­tu­re Freedom’s Homeby artist Pres­ton Jack­son, unvei­led in 2022, honors the cou­ra­ge of tho­se peo­p­le who, despi­te their social and legal dis­ad­van­ta­ge, sought their way to court. The depic­tion com­bi­nes his­to­ri­cal sce­nes with the memo­ry of the plain­ti­ffs, some of who­se names are inscri­bed on the memo­ri­al. The memo­ri­al thus com­ple­ments the his­to­ri­cal signi­fi­can­ce of the Old Court­house with a modern public place of remembrance.

The histo­ry of the Ame­ri­can women’s move­ment is also lin­ked to the Old Court­house. In the 1870s, Vir­gi­nia Minorfought in court for women’s suf­fra­ge. After she was denied voter regis­tra­ti­on, she pur­sued a legal case that also went all the way to the Supre­me Court. In 1875, it ruled that Ame­ri­can citi­zen­ship did not auto­ma­ti­cal­ly con­fer voting rights on women. It was not until the 19th Amend­ment of 1920 that women’s suf­fra­ge was con­sti­tu­tio­nal­ly pro­tec­ted at the fede­ral level.

The Old Court­house thus stands for dif­fe­rent stages of the Ame­ri­can strugg­le for free­dom, equa­li­ty, and poli­ti­cal par­ti­ci­pa­ti­on. Its histo­ry makes clear that the deve­lo­p­ment of civil rights was shaped not only by poli­ti­cal decis­i­ons, but also by indi­vi­du­al per­so­nal desti­nies and leng­thy legal dis­pu­tes. This his­to­ri­cal dimen­si­on gives the buil­ding a signi­fi­can­ce that extends far bey­ond its archi­tec­tu­ral appearance.

City Hall, Old Post Office and Civil Courts Building – Representative architecture of St. Louis

The eco­no­mic importance of St. Lou­is in the 19th and ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ries was espe­ci­al­ly cle­ar­ly reflec­ted in its public buil­dings. As the city grew, so did the demands on admi­nis­tra­ti­on, courts, and sta­te insti­tu­ti­ons. At the same time, repre­sen­ta­ti­ve buil­dings were con­s­truc­ted who­se archi­tec­tu­re was inten­ded to express the pro­spe­ri­ty and self-image of a rising Ame­ri­can metro­po­lis. To this day, the St. Lou­is City Hall, the Old Post Office and the Civil Courts Buil­dingthe appearance of Downtown.

The St. Lou­is City Hall on Mar­ket Streetis one of the city’s most striking his­to­ric admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­dings. After the exis­ting city govern­ment offices had beco­me too small for the gro­wing metro­po­lis, an archi­tec­tu­ral com­pe­ti­ti­on was announ­ced for a new city hall. The com­mis­si­on was award­ed to the archi­tec­tu­ral firm Eckel and Mann, who­se design was inspi­red by the French Renais­sance and, in par­ti­cu­lar, the Paris Hôtel de Ville. Con­s­truc­tion began in 1891, and in 1898 the city govern­ment moved into the new buil­ding.

The archi­tec­tu­re of the City Hall dif­fers mark­ed­ly from the neo­clas­si­cal court­hou­ses in down­town. Ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned faca­des, steep roof sur­faces, deco­ra­ti­ve win­dow forms and rich sculp­tu­ral orna­ment give the buil­ding a distinct­ly Euro­pean cha­rac­ter. The com­bi­na­ti­on of gra­ni­te, sand­stone and brick unders­cores its repre­sen­ta­ti­ve cha­rac­ter. Ori­gi­nal­ly, the town hall had addi­tio­nal towers and roof struc­tures, some of which were remo­ved in the 1930s for struc­tu­ral reasons.

Ano­ther signi­fi­cant admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­ding is the Old Post Office on Oli­ve Street. The monu­men­tal buil­ding was con­s­truc­ted bet­ween 1875 and 1884 accor­ding to plans by the govern­ment archi­tect Alfred B. Mull­ett. In terms of design, it fol­lows the French-influen­ced Second Empire style, which was par­ti­cu­lar­ly wide­spread in the United Sta­tes in the second half of the 19th cen­tu­ry for repre­sen­ta­ti­ve public buil­dings. Its mas­si­ve gra­ni­te faca­des, rich­ly deco­ra­ted win­dows, and cha­rac­te­ristic man­sard roof give the buil­ding an almost fort­ress-like impression.

Ori­gi­nal­ly, the Old Post Office housed not only the pos­tal admi­nis­tra­ti­on but also other fede­ral agen­ci­es and judi­cial offices. The ela­bo­ra­te buil­ding docu­ments the eco­no­mic rise of St. Lou­is and the gro­wing importance of the city for the admi­nis­tra­ti­on of the Ame­ri­can inte­ri­or. At the same time, its loca­ti­on show­ed that the eco­no­mic cen­ter of the city was incre­asing­ly shif­ting west­ward away from the imme­dia­te Mis­sis­sip­pi river­front. Today, the buil­ding is con­side­red one of the most important sur­vi­ving examp­les of Ame­ri­can govern­ment archi­tec­tu­re from the late 19th century.

A cle­ar­ly dif­fe­rent archi­tec­tu­ral lan­guage is shown by the Civil Courts Buil­ding on Tucker Bou­le­vard. Com­ple­ted in 1930, the court­house com­bi­nes his­to­ri­cal models with Art Deco ele­ments. Par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking is its step­ped roof struc­tu­re, which is inspi­red by the form of the anci­ent Mau­so­le­um of Hali­car­nas­sus. Abo­ve the mas­si­ve main buil­ding rises a temp­le-like struc­tu­re with colum­ns and a distinc­ti­ve step­ped pyra­mid. Two monu­men­tal sculp­tures form the crow­ning top.

The Civil Courts Buil­ding was crea­ted in con­nec­tion with exten­si­ve urban plan­ning efforts to reor­ga­ni­ze the public cen­ter of St. Lou­is. The aim was to con­nect seve­ral important admi­nis­tra­ti­ve and cul­tu­ral insti­tu­ti­ons along repre­sen­ta­ti­ve streets and squa­res. Its design the­r­e­fo­re fol­lows not only func­tion­al requi­re­ments but is also part of a lar­ger urban con­cept inten­ded to make the importance of public insti­tu­ti­ons visi­ble in the cityscape.

In inter­ac­tion with the sur­roun­ding buil­dings, the­se three struc­tures illus­tra­te the dif­fe­rent archi­tec­tu­ral ide­as of the peri­ods in which they were crea­ted. While City Hall draws on Euro­pean Renais­sance archi­tec­tu­re and the Old Post Office dis­plays the monu­men­tal design lan­guage of the Second Empire, the Civil Courts Buil­ding com­bi­nes anci­ent models with modern sky­scra­per archi­tec­tu­re. It is pre­cis­e­ly the­se The diver­si­ty of his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­ral styl­es in Down­town St. Lou­ismakes the down­town area an inte­res­t­ing exam­p­le of Ame­ri­can urban development.

Stifel Theatre and Orpheum Theatre – Historic cultural buildings in Downtown

In addi­ti­on to the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­dings, Down­town St. Lou­is has a num­ber of important his­to­ric thea­ters. They recall the city’s cul­tu­ral deve­lo­p­ment during the late 19th and ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ries, when St. Lou­is deve­lo­ped into an important cen­ter for music, stage per­for­mance, and public events. In par­ti­cu­lar, the Sti­fel Theat­re and the for­mer Orphe­um Theat­redocu­ment dif­fe­rent pha­ses of this thea­ter history.

The pre­sent-day Sti­fel Theat­re on Mar­ket Streetwas ori­gi­nal­ly built as part of the Muni­ci­pal Audi­to­ri­um and in 1934 ope­ned. The buil­ding was crea­ted as part of a com­pre­hen­si­ve rede­sign of St. Louis’s civic cen­ter. Its archi­tec­tu­re is based on clas­si­cal models and is clo­se­ly asso­cia­ted with the Ame­ri­can City Beau­tiful move­ment. This urban-plan­ning move­ment aimed to enhan­ce the appearance of Ame­ri­can cities through monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­re, gene­rous open spaces, and repre­sen­ta­ti­ve public buildings.

The faca­de of the Sti­fel Theat­re is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by a strict­ly sym­me­tri­cal design and monu­men­tal Corin­thi­an colum­ns. Lar­ge wall sec­tions are com­ple­men­ted by deco­ra­ti­ve reli­efs and inscrip­ti­ons that empha­si­ze the building’s public and cul­tu­ral pur­po­se. Also cha­rac­te­ristic are the lar­ge bear sculp­tures flan­king the ent­rance area. With its broad street fron­ta­ge, the thea­ter fits into the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve archi­tec­tu­re along Mar­ket Street and Memo­ri­al Plaza.

Insi­de, the thea­ter was desi­gned for lar­ge ope­ra, con­cert, and stage pro­duc­tions. Even at its ope­ning on April 21, 1934was Giu­sep­pe Verdi’s Aidaan ela­bo­ra­te ope­ra pro­duc­tion was on the pro­gram. In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, the house deve­lo­ped into an important venue for clas­si­cal music, thea­ter and enter­tain­ment. From 1934 to 1968, it ser­ved among other things as the per­for­mance venue for the St. Lou­is Sym­pho­ny Orches­tra, which is one of the oldest sym­pho­ny orchestras in the United States.

After various pha­ses of use and exten­si­ve reno­va­ti­on work, the his­to­ric thea­ter was reestab­lished as an important venue. Today, the pre­ser­ved archi­tec­tu­re com­bi­nes modern event tech­no­lo­gy with the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve appearance of the 1930s. The monu­men­tal exte­ri­or faça­de in par­ti­cu­lar makes the Sti­fel Theat­re a striking part of the his­to­ric downtown.

Ano­ther era of Ame­ri­can enter­tain­ment histo­ry is embo­di­ed by the Orphe­um Theat­re on North Ninth Street. The his­to­ric thea­ter buil­ding was desi­gned by archi­tect G. Albert Lans­burgh and ope­ned in 1917. Its design is based on Beaux-Arts archi­tec­tu­re, which was fre­quent­ly used in the ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ry for repre­sen­ta­ti­ve thea­ters, train sta­ti­ons and public buil­dings. Ela­bo­ra­te faça­de details, deco­ra­ti­ve sculp­tures and monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­ral ele­ments were inten­ded to make the building’s cul­tu­ral signi­fi­can­ce visi­ble from the outside.

The Orphe­um ori­gi­nal­ly belon­ged to an Ame­ri­can thea­ter net­work that focu­sed on Vau­de­ville eventsspe­cia­li­zed in this. This popu­lar form of enter­tain­ment com­bi­ned music, dance, come­dy, acro­ba­tics, and other stage per­for­man­ces into varied pro­grams. Vau­de­ville thea­ters were important social mee­ting places in many Ame­ri­can cities and shaped the enter­tain­ment cul­tu­re befo­re the wide­spread advent of sound film, radio, and television.

With the rise of cine­ma, the use of the Orphe­um also chan­ged. The buil­ding was at times ope­ra­ted as a movie thea­ter and under­went seve­ral altera­ti­ons and chan­ges of manage­ment. Under the name Ame­ri­can Theat­re and later Roberts Orphe­um, it remain­ed part of the thea­ter histo­ry of Down­town St. Lou­is. Its his­to­ric faça­de still recalls a time when grand thea­ter hou­ses were cen­tral places of cul­tu­ral and social life.

The two buil­dings illus­tra­te dif­fe­rent deve­lo­p­ments in Ame­ri­can thea­ter archi­tec­tu­re. While the Sti­fel Theat­re was crea­ted as a repre­sen­ta­ti­ve muni­ci­pal cul­tu­ral buil­ding, the Orphe­um docu­ments the histo­ry of com­mer­cial enter­tain­ment and pri­va­te thea­ter com­pa­nies. Tog­e­ther, they show the signi­fi­can­ce of music, thea­ter, and per­forming arts in the cul­tu­ral deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­isheld.

Between Market Street and Washington Avenue – Historic facades and modern city life

Away from the major attrac­tions, the cha­rac­ter of Down­town St. Lou­isespe­ci­al­ly cle­ar­ly in its streets and buil­ding faca­des. The down­town area is not a uni­form­ly desi­gned his­to­ric old town, but the result of num­e­rous eco­no­mic and urban deve­lo­p­ment chan­ges. Monu­men­tal admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­dings, for­mer depart­ment stores, modern office towers and com­pa­ra­tively unas­sum­ing brick buil­dings are often found direct­ly next to one ano­ther. It is pre­cis­e­ly the­se archi­tec­tu­ral con­trasts that make the city­scape varied and con­vey an impres­si­on of the metropolis’s dif­fe­rent pha­ses of development.

The Mar­ket Streetis one of the most important east-west links in down­town. It stret­ches from the area around the Gate­way Arch through the public and eco­no­mic cen­ter of Down­town and con­nects num­e­rous pro­mi­nent buil­dings with one ano­ther. Along the street are, among others, the Old Court­house, the Civil Courts Buil­ding, City Hall and the Sti­fel Theat­re. Gene­rous street spaces, repre­sen­ta­ti­ve buil­dings and public squa­res illus­tra­te the ambi­ti­on the city had for desig­ning its cen­ter in the ear­ly 20th century.

What is par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking is the jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of his­to­ric and modern archi­tec­tu­re. While the public buil­dings are often cha­rac­te­ri­zed by mas­si­ve natu­ral stone faca­des, colum­ns and deco­ra­ti­ve ele­ments, the newer office towers are domi­na­ted by glass, steel and cle­ar­ly struc­tu­red faca­de sur­faces. Buil­dings such as the One Metro­po­li­tan Squa­redis­play a cle­ar­ly dif­fe­rent archi­tec­tu­ral style from the his­to­ric com­mer­cial buil­dings in their neigh­bor­hood. Reflec­tions, dif­fe­ring buil­ding heights and chan­ging lines of sight crea­te a mul­ti­face­ted cityscape.

North of Mar­ket Street lies Washing­ton Ave­nueano­ther important his­to­ric com­mer­cial street. Espe­ci­al­ly in the late 19th and ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ries, its sur­roun­dings deve­lo­ped into a cen­ter of who­le­sa­le trade and the clot­hing indus­try. Num­e­rous com­pa­nies had mul­ti-sto­ry warehou­ses, pro­duc­tion buil­dings, and com­mer­cial buil­dings erec­ted here. The pro­xi­mi­ty to rail con­nec­tions and the Mis­sis­sip­pi favor­ed the move­ment of goods and made it pos­si­ble to sup­p­ly the gro­wing mar­kets in the Ame­ri­can interior.

The his­to­ric signi­fi­can­ce of Washing­ton Ave­nue is still evi­dent today in its pre­ser­ved buil­ding faca­des. Lar­ge win­dow are­as, deco­ra­ti­ve brick orna­ments, natu­ral stone ele­ments, and ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned cor­nices cha­rac­te­ri­ze num­e­rous for­mer com­mer­cial buil­dings. Many buil­dings date from a time when St. Lou­is was among the most important cen­ters of the Ame­ri­can clot­hing indus­try. The archi­tec­tu­re com­bi­nes func­tion­al requi­re­ments for sto­rage and pro­duc­tion with the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve aspi­ra­ti­ons of eco­no­mic­al­ly suc­cessful companies.

With the decli­ne of tra­di­tio­nal indus­tri­al and com­mer­cial sec­tors, the use of many buil­dings chan­ged fun­da­men­tal­ly. For­mer warehou­ses and com­mer­cial buil­dings were par­ti­al­ly aban­do­ned, but later con­ver­ted into apart­ments, offices, restau­rants, and event spaces. In par­ti­cu­lar, the con­ver­si­on of his­to­ric com­mer­cial buil­dings into so-cal­led Loft Apart­mentschan­ged the appearance of Washing­ton Ave­nue. In many cases, the his­to­ric buil­ding fabric was pre­ser­ved, while the inte­ri­ors were adapt­ed to new requirements.

Other are­as of Down­town deve­lo­ped less uni­form­ly. In addi­ti­on to moder­ni­zed buil­dings, the­re are still older faca­des, unu­sed lots, and lar­ger par­king are­as. The­se dif­fe­rent uses make clear that down­town St. Lou­is has been shaped to this day by eco­no­mic struc­tu­ral chan­ge and urban plan­ning adjus­t­ments. The decli­ne of tra­di­tio­nal retail func­tions, the relo­ca­ti­on of jobs, and the reor­ga­niza­ti­on of traf­fic have chan­ged the city­scape over decades.

The smal­ler streets and con­nec­tions bet­ween the major traf­fic arte­ries in par­ti­cu­lar con­vey a direct impres­si­on of this deve­lo­p­ment. His­to­ric brick faca­des stand next to modern buil­ding ser­vices, older pede­stri­an bridges con­nect dif­fe­rent parts of buil­dings, and lar­ge-sca­le wall designs chan­ge the per­cep­ti­on of other­wi­se func­tion­al archi­tec­tu­re. Ordi­na­ry ele­ments of dai­ly urban life such as road traf­fic, con­s­truc­tion sites, par­king gara­ges, and tech­ni­cal faci­li­ties also belong to the appearance of a down­town that is con­stant­ly changing.

For archi­tec­tu­ral pho­to­gra­phy in St. Lou­isthis crea­tes num­e­rous dif­fe­rent motifs. His­to­ric faca­de details can be view­ed just as much as modern glass fronts, geo­me­tric lines, or unu­su­al per­spec­ti­ves bet­ween the sky­scra­pers. The espe­ci­al­ly strong con­trasts bet­ween monu­men­tal buil­dings and ever­y­day street sce­nes open up pos­si­bi­li­ties for depic­ting the city bey­ond its fami­li­ar landmarks.

The down­town area of St. Lou­is is the­r­e­fo­re not just a place of important his­to­ric sights. It also docu­ments the eco­no­mic trans­for­ma­ti­on of an Ame­ri­can metro­po­lis who­se archi­tec­tu­re was shaped by dif­fe­rent social ide­as and func­tion­al requi­re­ments. The inter­play of his­to­ric heri­ta­ge, modern urban deve­lo­p­ment, and urban ever­y­day lifemakes Down­town an essen­ti­al part of the city por­trait of St. Louis.

Citygarden St. Louis

Seitlich liegender Bronzekopf „Eros Bendato“ von Igor Mitoraj mit Bandagen und dunklen Augenhöhlen im grünen Citygarden in St. Louis.

Sculpture park and modern art in Downtown

In the midd­le of Down­town St. Lou­islies the extra­or­di­na­ry City­gar­den public sculp­tu­re park, which com­bi­nes inter­na­tio­nal con­tem­po­ra­ry art with an ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned urban land­scape. Bet­ween the sky­scra­pers and his­to­ric buil­dings of the city cen­ter, not an area cove­ring just under three hec­ta­res extends: cove­ring around 1.2 hec­ta­resthe com­plex brings tog­e­ther monu­men­tal sculp­tures, green spaces, foun­ta­ins, and dif­fe­rent are­as for lin­ge­ring. Ope­ned in 2009, the park belongs to the exten­si­ve Gate­way Mall and forms a deli­be­ra­te coun­ter­point to the den­se deve­lo­p­ment of the city center.

The distinc­ti­ve fea­ture of the City­gar­den Sculp­tu­re Parkis the imme­dia­te acces­si­bi­li­ty of its art­works. Unli­ke in a tra­di­tio­nal muse­um, the sculp­tures stand free­ly among paths, trees, and water fea­tures. Visi­tors can approach the works from dif­fe­rent direc­tions and expe­ri­ence them in direct rela­ti­on to the sur­roun­ding archi­tec­tu­re. The coll­ec­tion now includes 29 sculp­tures by inter­na­tio­nal artists, inclu­ding works by Igor Mit­or­aj, Erwin Wurm, Yoshi­to­mo Nara, Keith Haring, and other important repre­sen­ta­ti­ves of modern and con­tem­po­ra­ry art.

It is pre­cis­e­ly the jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of public art, modern land­scape archi­tec­tu­re, and urban ever­y­day lifethat makes the City­gar­den an inte­res­t­ing part of St. Lou­is. The sculp­tures chan­ge in effect depen­ding on per­spec­ti­ve, natu­ral light, and the buil­dings in the back­ground. At the same time, the park shows the role that art and attrac­ti­ve public spaces can play in the deve­lo­p­ment of Ame­ri­can downtowns.

Citygarden – art, landscape architecture and public space in downtown St. Louis

The crea­ti­on of the City­gar­den in St. Lou­isis clo­se­ly lin­ked to efforts to res­ha­pe the down­town area into an attrac­ti­ve public living space again after deca­des of eco­no­mic and demo­gra­phic chan­ge. As ear­ly as the ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ry, city plan­ner Geor­ge Kess­ler deve­lo­ped the idea of crea­ting a gene­rous series of green spaces and repre­sen­ta­ti­ve public buil­dings along Mar­ket Street. The­se plans led to the so-cal­led Gate­way Mall, a long, line­ar cor­ri­dor of green space and open space bet­ween the Mis­sis­sip­pi and the wes­tern parts of downtown.

The deve­lo­p­ment of the Gate­way Mall unfold­ed uneven­ly over many deca­des. While indi­vi­du­al are­as were desi­gned as public squa­res or green spaces, other are­as remain­ed lar­ge­ly unu­sed or lost importance due to urban deve­lo­p­ment chan­ges. At the end of the 1990s, new con­cepts emer­ged that were inten­ded to inte­gra­te public space more stron­gly into the eco­no­mic and cul­tu­ral deve­lo­p­ment of downtown.

A decisi­ve role in this was play­ed by the Gate­way Foun­da­ti­on, a non­pro­fit foun­da­ti­on that has been com­mit­ted to art and urban design in the St. Lou­is regi­on sin­ce 1986. Tog­e­ther with the city, it deve­lo­ped the con­cept of a publicly acces­si­ble sculp­tu­re park inten­ded to inte­gra­te works of art by inter­na­tio­nal­ly renow­ned artists into a con­tem­po­ra­ry land­scaped green space. The rele­vant agree­ments were made in 2007, con­s­truc­tion began in 2008, and the City­gar­den ope­ned in July 2009.

The land­scape archi­tec­tu­ral plan­ning was com­mis­sio­ned to the firm Nel­son Byrd Woltz Land­scape Archi­tects. The goal was not sim­ply to place a coll­ec­tion of sculp­tures on an exis­ting lawn. Rather, the aim was to crea­te a cohe­si­ve public space who­se design takes account of the geo­gra­phi­cal and eco­lo­gi­cal cha­rac­te­ristics of the region.

Par­ti­cu­lar­ly the Mis­sis­sip­pi and its river land­scapesser­ved as design models. The con­cept divi­des the park into dif­fe­rent are­as that are remi­nis­cent of the river system’s uplands, flood­plains and agri­cul­tu­ral­ly shaped ter­races. Cur­ved walls, gent­ly mode­led chan­ges in ter­rain and careful­ly sel­ec­ted plant spe­ci­es reflect the­se natu­ral struc­tures. A rough­ly 168-meter-long wall made of Mis­sou­ri lime­s­tone recalls in its form the ero­si­on-shaped steep slo­pes along the regio­nal river landscapes.

Gre­at importance was also atta­ched to con­nec­ting the plan­ting to the natu­ral sur­roun­dings. Num­e­rous nati­ve tree spe­ci­es, shrubs and peren­ni­als form a varied vege­ta­ti­on that chan­ges in appearance over the cour­se of the sea­sons. In addi­ti­on, rain gar­dens and spe­cial drai­na­ge sys­temswere crea­ted to absorb rain­wa­ter, retain it and in part return it to the soil. City­gar­den thus com­bi­nes land­scape-archi­tec­tu­ral design with prac­ti­cal mea­su­res of eco­lo­gi­cal­ly ori­en­ted urban development.

Among the par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking ele­ments are the various water fea­tures. An elon­ga­ted basin with a water­fall, smal­ler water are­as and an inter­ac­ti­ve water play fea­ture loo­sen up the design. Espe­ci­al­ly the so-cal­led Spray Pla­za with 102 water jetsmakes the park a lively place to spend time. While the water fea­tures are used main­ly in the war­mer months, the foun­ta­ins and basins form an important part of the spa­ti­al design throug­hout the year.

The open­ness of City­gar­den is cru­cial to its cha­rac­ter. The park has no enclo­sing fence and can be ente­red from the adja­cent streets. The art­works are the­r­e­fo­re not con­fi­ned to a sepa­ra­te exhi­bi­ti­on area, but are part of the ordi­na­ry urban space. Admis­si­on to City­gar­den is free, making the sculp­tu­re coll­ec­tion acces­si­ble inde­pendent­ly of a visit to the museum.

In 2024, City­gar­den was expan­ded and rede­si­gned. The for­mer street con­nec­tion through the park was tur­ned into a con­ti­nuous pede­stri­an and green area. Addi­tio­nal plan­tings, places to sit, and new sculp­tures com­ple­men­ted the ori­gi­nal lay­out. Among the new­ly instal­led works was also White Ghostby the Japa­ne­se artist Yoshi­to­mo Nara.

Today is the City­gar­den Sculp­tu­re Park one of the spe­cial sights of Down­town St. Lou­is. Its signi­fi­can­ce comes not only from the qua­li­ty of the art­works on dis­play, but equal­ly from their urban con­text. The gene­rous green spaces, the monu­men­tal sculp­tures, and the high-rise buil­dings direct­ly adja­cent to them form a varied envi­ron­ment in which public art and ever­y­day city life meet directly.

Eros Bendato – Igor Mitoraj’s monumental bronze head in the Citygarden

Among the best-known art­works in the City­gar­den St. Lou­isis the monu­men­tal bron­ze sculp­tu­re Eros Ben­da­toof the Polish-French sculp­tor Igor Mit­or­aj. The enorm­ous head lying on its side is alre­a­dy a striking fea­ture of the park due to its extra­or­di­na­ry dimen­si­ons. The frag­men­ted facial form, the clo­sed or obscu­red eye are­as, and the ban­da­ge-like struc­tures give the work a pecu­li­ar mix­tu­re of clas­si­cal beau­ty and visi­ble vulnerability.

Igor Mit­or­aj was born in 1944 in Oede­ran, Sax­o­ny, and grew up in Pol­and. After stu­dy­ing at the Aca­de­my of Fine Arts in Kraków, he con­tin­ued his trai­ning in Paris. Later, he beca­me deep­ly invol­ved with the art of anci­ent cul­tures and deve­lo­ped his own sculp­tu­ral lan­guage that com­bi­ned clas­si­cal human body forms with deli­be­ra­te frag­men­ta­ti­on. He beca­me espe­ci­al­ly well known for monu­men­tal heads, tor­sos, and other body frag­ments that often resem­ble dama­ged anci­ent sculptures.

An important influence on his artis­tic work was the Greek and Roman anti­qui­ty. Howe­ver, Mit­or­aj did not sim­ply adopt clas­si­cal sculp­tu­ral forms; ins­tead, he inter­pre­ted them in a con­tem­po­ra­ry con­text. The idea­li­zed bodies in his works often appear incom­ple­te, bro­ken, or alte­red by unfa­mi­li­ar ele­ments. This crea­tes a ten­si­on bet­ween beau­ty, tran­si­ence, and the idea of a once per­fect form.

The bron­ze sculp­tu­re Eros Ben­da­to was crea­ted in 1999and takes up the figu­re of Eros from Greek mytho­lo­gy. Eros embo­dies love, desi­re, and the power of human attrac­tion. In Mitoraj’s work, howe­ver, the mytho­lo­gi­cal figu­re does not appear as an idea­li­zed com­ple­te form, but as an iso­la­ted, dama­ged-loo­king head. The ori­gi­nal who­len­ess of the body is no lon­ger pre­sent, and the ban­da­ged facial are­as make it dif­fi­cult to per­cei­ve human individuality.

Espe­ci­al­ly the ban­da­ge-like struc­tures over the eyes and mouthare important for inter­pre­ting the art­work. They can be unders­tood as a sym­bol of rest­ric­ted per­cep­ti­on, sup­pres­sed fee­lings, or the vul­nerabi­li­ty of human desi­res. At the same time, the bands are remi­nis­cent of mea­su­res used to hold dama­ged objects tog­e­ther. The art­work thus opens up dif­fe­rent pos­si­bi­li­ties for inter­pre­ta­ti­on: as a depic­tion of a woun­ded civi­liza­ti­on, as a sym­bol of lost ide­als, or as an attempt to pre­ser­ve a frag­men­ted form despi­te its damage.

The extra­or­di­na­ry effect of Eros Ben­da­to also comes from its cho­sen size. The bron­ze head mea­su­res around 3.7 metersat its lon­gest ext­ent. Its monu­men­tal pro­por­ti­ons make it appear like an archaeo­lo­gi­cal find that has been detached from a much lar­ger con­text. At the same time, the sculp­tu­re has an unu­su­al spa­ti­al pre­sence becau­se of its posi­ti­on on its side. Unli­ke a clas­sic monu­ment, the figu­re does not rise upright abo­ve the view­er, but rests clo­se to the ground.

In City­gar­den, Eros Ben­da­to is loca­ted at the eas­tern ent­rance near Mar­ket Street and 8th Street. The sculp­tu­re lies on a slight­ly incli­ned, cir­cu­lar gra­ni­te sur­face over which a thin film of water flows at times. This design was deli­bera­te­ly inte­gra­ted into the land­scape archi­tec­tu­re con­cept. The round sur­face and the water echo the natu­ral sur­roun­dings, while the mas­si­ve bron­ze head forms a clear con­trast to the smooth sur­face of the granite.

The pla­ce­ment makes it pos­si­ble to view the art­work from dif­fe­rent direc­tions. From a fron­tal per­spec­ti­ve, the facial fea­tures and the cha­rac­te­ristic ban­da­ges are espe­ci­al­ly clear. Side angles, on the other hand, empha­si­ze the frag­men­ted form and the spa­ti­al ext­ent of the sculp­tu­re. The con­nec­tion with the sur­roun­ding vege­ta­ti­on and the high-rises of down­town crea­tes an addi­tio­nal con­trast bet­ween archaic sculp­tu­re and modern Ame­ri­can urban archi­tec­tu­re.

It is pre­cis­e­ly this spa­ti­al situa­ti­on that makes Eros Ben­da­to a cha­rac­te­ristic pho­to motif in City­gar­den. The rough, part­ly dark­ly pati­na­ted bron­ze stands out cle­ar­ly against the light-colo­red ground sur­faces, the gree­n­ery of the trees, and the geo­me­tric faca­des of the sur­roun­ding buil­dings. The chan­ging day­light brings dif­fe­rent sur­face tex­tures into focus and alters the effect of the mode­led facial features.

Eros Ben­da­to thus exem­pli­fies the spe­cial cla­im of the City­gar­den: Inter­na­tio­nal art should not be view­ed in iso­la­ti­on, but expe­ri­en­ced in direct rela­ti­on to the public urban space.The monu­men­tal sculp­tu­re com­bi­nes clas­si­cal forms with a con­tem­po­ra­ry inter­pre­ta­ti­on and is among the most impres­si­ve artis­tic accents in the cen­ter of St. Louis.

Big Suit and White Ghost – Contemporary sculptures between the skyscrapers

In addi­ti­on to the clas­si­cal­ly influen­ced works by Igor Mit­or­aj, the City­gar­den in St. Lou­isfea­tures num­e­rous works of art that use a distinct­ly dif­fe­rent for­mal lan­guage. Among the par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking examp­les are Big Suit by Erwin Wurmand White Ghost by Yoshi­to­mo Nara. Both sculp­tures take up fami­li­ar motifs from ever­y­day human life, but alter them through unu­su­al pro­por­ti­ons, mate­ri­als, and for­mal simplifications.

The Aus­tri­an artist Erwin Wurmwas born in Bruck an der Mur in 1954 and is one of the inter­na­tio­nal­ly known figu­res of con­tem­po­ra­ry sculp­tu­re. His work often explo­res the ques­ti­on of what a sculp­tu­re actual­ly is and how ordi­na­ry objects can be trans­for­med into art through chan­ges in their size, shape, or func­tion. Clot­hing, fur­ni­tu­re, cars, and other ever­y­day objects play an espe­ci­al­ly important role in this.

With the sculp­tu­re Big SuitWurm takes up the appearance of a clas­sic men’s suit. Crea­ted in 2010 and instal­led in the City­gar­den in 2011, the work shows a monu­men­tal pink suit stan­ding on a pedes­tal. The figu­re has neither head nor hands, and the body insi­de the clot­hing is also com­ple­te­ly absent. Nevert­hel­ess, the shape of the jacket and trou­sers crea­tes the impres­si­on of a human figu­re who­se absence is made visi­ble pre­cis­e­ly through its outer shell.

The sculp­tu­re con­sists of pain­ted alu­mi­numand rea­ches a height of appro­xi­m­ate­ly three meters. Its extra­or­di­na­ry pro­por­ti­ons turn an ever­y­day item of clot­hing into a monu­men­tal object. The pink sur­face in par­ti­cu­lar inten­si­fies the unu­su­al cha­rac­ter of the work. While clas­si­cal monu­ments often depict important per­so­na­li­ties, Big Suit shows only the outer form of a per­son, wit­hout reve­al­ing their identity.

The work can be unders­tood as an explo­ra­ti­on of social role, out­ward appearance, and per­so­nal iden­ti­ty. Clot­hing ser­ves not only a prac­ti­cal pur­po­se, but also con­veys infor­ma­ti­on about pro­fes­sio­nal sta­tus, social expec­ta­ti­ons, and per­so­nal self-pre­sen­ta­ti­on. The men’s suit is espe­ci­al­ly asso­cia­ted with ide­as of aut­ho­ri­ty and serious­ness in busi­ness and poli­ti­cal set­tings. Wurm takes up this fami­li­ar sym­bo­lism and trans­forms it through a deli­bera­te­ly exag­ge­ra­ted, almost absurd form.

The result con­ta­ins both humo­rous and con­tem­pla­ti­ve ele­ments. The over­si­zed suit initi­al­ly appears unu­su­al and pos­si­bly comic­al. On clo­ser inspec­tion, howe­ver, it rai­ses the ques­ti­on of the rela­ti­onship bet­ween the out­ward appearance and the per­son it is meant to repre­sent. Big Suit con­scious­ly plays with the con­trast bet­ween a visi­ble shell and the absence of an individual.

Ano­ther artis­tic approach is taken by the Japa­ne­se artist Yoshi­to­mo Nara, who­se sculp­tu­re White Ghosthas been part of the coll­ec­tion sin­ce the expan­si­on of City­gar­den in 2024. Nara was born in 1959 in Hiro­sa­ki, Japan, and is espe­ci­al­ly known for his cha­rac­te­ristic depic­tions of child­li­ke figu­res and ani­mals. His works com­bi­ne an initi­al­ly simp­le, almost car­toon-like design with a fre­quent­ly mul­ti-laye­red emo­tio­nal impact.

The sculp­tu­re White Ghost was crea­ted in 2010and is made of white, glos­sy fiber­glass. Its high­ly sim­pli­fied form com­bi­nes fea­tures of a child and tho­se of a dog. The lar­ge eyes, the roun­dish head, and the long, down­ward-poin­ting arms give the figu­re an unu­sual­ly quiet appearance. Despi­te its redu­ced form, it has a distinct expres­si­on that can­not be cle­ar­ly defi­ned as fri­end­ly, sad, or aloof.

It is pre­cis­e­ly this ambi­gui­ty that is cha­rac­te­ristic of many of Yoshi­to­mo Nara’s works. At first glan­ce, his figu­res seem acces­si­ble and are remi­nis­cent of visu­al worlds from comics or popu­lar cul­tu­re. At the same time, they often pos­sess a cer­tain distance and inde­pen­dence. The appa­rent sim­pli­ci­ty of the depic­tion thus con­ce­als a more com­plex enga­ge­ment with human emo­ti­ons, vul­nerabi­li­ty, and individuality.

The smooth, almost com­ple­te­ly white sur­face of White Ghost stands out cle­ar­ly from the mate­ri­als of the sur­roun­ding city­scape. Bet­ween the glass and con­cre­te faca­des of the high-rises, the figu­re appears as an inde­pen­dent, bright ele­ment who­se soft con­tours form a con­trast to the straight-lined shapes of the archi­tec­tu­re. The dar­ker base also helps lift the sculp­tu­re spa­ti­al­ly off the ground.

In desig­ning White Ghost, Nara also explo­red the rela­ti­onship bet­ween con­tem­po­ra­ry art and its pos­si­ble future per­cep­ti­on. The pre­sen­ta­ti­on on a stone-like pedes­tal is remi­nis­cent of his­to­ri­cal sculp­tures and archaeo­lo­gi­cal finds as they are shown in muse­ums. In this way, the work also refers to the ques­ti­on of how art objects of today might be view­ed in a distant future.

In direct com­pa­ri­son, Big Suit and White Ghost repre­sent two very dif­fe­rent posi­ti­ons in con­tem­po­ra­ry sculp­tu­re. Erwin Wurm works with the enlar­ge­ment and ali­en­ati­on of an ever­y­day object. Yoshi­to­mo Nara redu­ces a human-ani­mal figu­re to a few cha­rac­te­ristic fea­tures. While Big Suit stands out through its color and unu­su­al emp­tin­ess, White Ghost deve­lo­ps its effect pri­ma­ri­ly through its clo­sed form and res­trai­ned facial expression.

For the Pho­to­gra­phy in City­gar­den St. Lou­isoffer both works inte­res­t­ing con­trasts. The ver­ti­cal forms of the sculp­tures can be direct­ly rela­ted to the towe­ring buil­dings of Down­town. At the same time, their dif­fe­rent sur­faces and colors enable inde­pen­dent image com­po­si­ti­ons. The pink alu­mi­num figu­re by Erwin Wurm and the white fiber­glass sculp­tu­re by Yoshi­to­mo Nara each set a cle­ar­ly reco­gnizable accent within the urban environment.

Tog­e­ther with Eros Ben­da­to, they illus­tra­te the artis­tic diver­si­ty of the City­gar­den. Clas­si­cal­ly inspi­red bron­ze sculp­tu­re, con­cep­tu­al ever­y­day art and con­tem­po­ra­ry figu­ra­ti­ve sculp­tu­restand here side by side wit­hout the spa­ti­al sepa­ra­ti­on of a muse­um. Their direct inte­gra­ti­on into the public urban space makes the art­works a fixed part of St. Louis’s pre­sent-day cityscape.

Union Station St. Louis

Dunkler See von Union Station mit roten, violetten und grünen Lichtreflexen unter dem historischen Stahltragwerk vor tiefblauem Abendhimmel.

Historic railway station between railway history and modern architecture

The St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­on in Mis­sou­riis one of the most impres­si­ve his­to­ric rail­way sta­ti­ons in the United Sta­tes. When the monu­men­tal rail ter­mi­nal ope­ned on Sep­tem­ber 1, 1894, it was regard­ed as the lar­gest pas­sen­ger sta­ti­on in the world. Its vast plat­form faci­li­ties, the impo­sing recep­ti­on hall, and the distinc­ti­ve clock tower docu­ment the eco­no­mic importance of St. Lou­is as a trans­por­ta­ti­on hub bet­ween the Ame­ri­can East and West.

Uni­on Sta­ti­on was desi­gned by the archi­tect Theo­do­re C. Link, who drew inspi­ra­ti­on from Euro­pean Roma­nes­que archi­tec­tu­re for the design. Mas­si­ve natu­ral stone faca­des, tall round-arch win­dows, and steep roofs defi­ne the his­to­ric main buil­ding. Behind it stret­ches a vast steel struc­tu­re that ori­gi­nal­ly cover­ed dozens of rail­way tracks. Tog­e­ther, the dif­fe­rent parts of the com­plex form an excep­tio­nal exam­p­le of Ame­ri­can rail­way archi­tec­tu­re from the late 19th century.

Today, the Uni­on Sta­ti­on St. Lou­isis no lon­ger used as a regu­lar long-distance rail­way sta­ti­on. After exten­si­ve reno­va­ti­on and con­ver­si­on work, a lei­su­re and hotel com­plex was crea­ted with restau­rants, an aqua­ri­um, and the wide­ly visi­ble St. Lou­is Wheel. The his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re was lar­ge­ly pre­ser­ved. In par­ti­cu­lar, the com­bi­na­ti­on of monu­men­tal steel struc­tures, modern uses, and colorful evening illu­mi­na­ti­on makes the for­mer sta­ti­on com­plex a remar­kab­le part of St. Louis’s city­scape today.

St. Louis Union Station – From railway hub to the world’s largest passenger train station

The histo­ry of the St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­onis clo­se­ly lin­ked to the rise of the Ame­ri­can rail­road in the 19th cen­tu­ry. After the end of the Civil War, the United Sta­tes rail net­work deve­lo­ped at an extra­or­di­na­ry pace. New rail­way lines ope­ned up lar­ge parts of the inte­ri­or and con­nec­ted the gro­wing indus­tri­al cen­ters in the East with the agri­cul­tu­ral regi­ons of the Mid­west. St. Lou­is occu­p­ied a spe­cial posi­ti­on in this pro­cess becau­se of its geo­gra­phic loca­ti­on on the Mis­sis­sip­pi. Important trans­port rou­tes from dif­fe­rent direc­tions con­ver­ged here, while the river con­tin­ued to play a signi­fi­cant role in inter­sta­te trade.

With the ope­ning of the Eads Bridge in 1874the con­di­ti­ons for rail traf­fic bet­ween Mis­sou­ri and Illi­nois impro­ved con­sider­a­b­ly. For the first time, trains could cross the Mis­sis­sip­pi at St. Lou­is over a fixed bridge con­nec­tion. Befo­re that, rail­way cars some­ti­mes had to be trans­por­ted by fer­ry bet­ween the dif­fe­rent rail net­works. The new steel bridge eli­mi­na­ted a major bot­t­len­eck and acce­le­ra­ted traf­fic bet­ween the eas­tern and wes­tern parts of the country.

Howe­ver, the gro­wing rail traf­fic posed new orga­niza­tio­nal chal­lenges for the city. The various rail­road com­pa­nies ori­gi­nal­ly had their own faci­li­ties, while the Uni­on Depot, ope­ned in 1875, soon no lon­ger met the gro­wing demands. Tra­ve­lers had to chan­ge bet­ween dif­fe­rent sta­ti­ons, and the dis­tri­bu­ti­on of trains across the exis­ting track faci­li­ties also beca­me incre­asing­ly dif­fi­cult. With the foun­ding of the Ter­mi­nal Rail­road Asso­cia­ti­on of St. Lou­is in 1889a joint orga­niza­ti­on was even­tual­ly crea­ted that coor­di­na­ted key parts of the rail infra­struc­tu­re and dro­ve for­ward the con­s­truc­tion of a new cen­tral station.

The site at the Mar­ket Street bet­ween 18th and 20th Streetwas deli­bera­te­ly cho­sen west of the com­mer­cial cen­ter of the time. The­re, suf­fi­ci­ent­ly lar­ge are­as were available to build an exten­si­ve sta­ti­on buil­ding with num­e­rous tracks and plat­forms. Archi­tect Theo­do­re C. Link was com­mis­sio­ned with the plan­ning, and his design com­bi­ned the func­tion­al requi­re­ments of a modern rail hub with a repre­sen­ta­ti­ve appearance.

On Sep­tem­ber 1, 1894, Uni­on Sta­ti­on was cere­mo­nious­ly ope­ned. Around 20,000 invi­ted guests took part in the cele­bra­ti­ons. The new sta­ti­on united the con­nec­tions of 22 rail­road com­pa­nies and fea­tured an enorm­ous track and plat­form com­plex. With its spa­cious wai­ting are­as, dining faci­li­ties, hotel rooms and admi­nis­tra­ti­ve offices, it set new stan­dards for Ame­ri­can pas­sen­ger trans­port. Uni­on Sta­ti­on was thus far more than a func­tion­al sta­ti­on. It ser­ved as a cen­tral arri­val and depar­tu­re point for tra­ve­lers from almost all parts of the United States.

The sta­ti­on gai­ned par­ti­cu­lar signi­fi­can­ce during the 1904 St. Lou­is World’s Fair. The Loui­sia­na Purcha­se Expo­si­ti­on drew mil­li­ons of visi­tors to the city, many of whom arri­ved by train. In order to hand­le the expec­ted volu­me of traf­fic, expan­si­ons to the sta­ti­on faci­li­ties had alre­a­dy been car­ri­ed out in the years before­hand. Uni­on Sta­ti­on was thus one of the most important faci­li­ties for orga­ni­zing visi­tor and tra­vel traf­fic during one of the most signi­fi­cant inter­na­tio­nal events in the city’s histo­ry at the time.

In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, the sta­ti­on remain­ed a cen­tral part of the Ame­ri­can rail net­work. Espe­ci­al­ly during the Second World War, pas­sen­ger traf­fic rea­ched its peak. At times, around 100,000 tra­ve­lers pas­sed through the faci­li­ties each day, inclu­ding num­e­rous sol­diers on their way to their deploy­ment loca­ti­ons or back home. Uni­on Sta­ti­on thus also beca­me a place of per­so­nal fare­wells and reuni­ons, who­se signi­fi­can­ce went far bey­ond ordi­na­ry travel.

One of the best-known his­to­ri­cal events was a visit by U.S. Pre­si­dent Har­ry S. Tru­man in Novem­ber 1948. At the sta­ti­on, the famous pho­to­graph was taken in which Tru­man, after his sur­pri­sing elec­tion vic­to­ry, holds up a news­pa­per with the mista­ken head­line “Dew­ey Defeats Tru­man”. The image beca­me one of the best-known docu­ments in Ame­ri­can poli­ti­cal histo­ry and to this day links Uni­on Sta­ti­on with a spe­cial moment in the post­war era.

After the Second World War, howe­ver, tra­vel beha­vi­or in the United Sta­tes chan­ged fun­da­men­tal­ly. The expan­si­on of the inter­sta­te high­way net­work, the incre­asing spread of pri­va­te auto­mo­bi­les, and the gro­wing air traf­fic led to a ste­ady decli­ne in rail pas­sen­gers. Num­e­rous long-distance trains with a long tra­di­ti­on were dis­con­tin­ued, while lar­ge sta­ti­ons incre­asing­ly lost importance.

Uni­on Sta­ti­on was not spared from this deve­lo­p­ment eit­her. The once hea­vi­ly used track faci­li­ties were used by only a few trains. On Octo­ber 31, 1978, the last regu­lar long-distance train left the his­to­ric sta­ti­on. This mark­ed the end of the ori­gi­nal use of one of the lar­gest Ame­ri­can rail ter­mi­nals after 84 years.

The rail­road histo­ry of Uni­on Sta­ti­on is still direct­ly lin­ked to the eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­is today. The buil­ding is a remin­der of an era in which the rail­road was not only the most important means of trans­por­ta­ti­on over long distances, but also decisi­ve­ly influen­ced the growth of cities, indus­tri­al pro­gress, and social mobility.

Theodore Link and the architecture of Union Station – Romanesque style, clock tower, and monumental steel structures

The archi­tec­tu­re of St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­onis one of the out­stan­ding examp­les of Ame­ri­can rail­road sta­ti­on archi­tec­tu­re from the late 19th cen­tu­ry. The design comes from the archi­tect Theo­do­re C. Link, who was born in Ger­ma­ny in 1850 and estab­lished hims­elf as a pro­mi­nent archi­tect in St. Lou­is after immi­gra­ting to the United Sta­tes. In plan­ning the sta­ti­on, he was gui­ded by the so-cal­led Richard­so­ni­an Roma­nes­que, an Ame­ri­can inter­pre­ta­ti­on of Roma­nes­que archi­tec­tu­re, which was par­ti­cu­lar­ly shaped by the archi­tect Hen­ry Hob­son Richardson.

Cha­rac­te­ristic of this archi­tec­tu­ral style are mas­si­ve natu­ral stone faça­des, lar­ge round-arched ope­nings, asym­me­tri­cal buil­ding com­po­si­ti­ons, and striking roofs­capes. The­se fea­tures also defi­ne the appearance of Uni­on Sta­ti­on. The elon­ga­ted main faça­de on Mar­ket Street is made of light-colo­red lime­s­tone and is struc­tu­red by num­e­rous win­dows, gab­les, and towers. Steep red roofs and deco­ra­ti­ve faça­de ele­ments give the buil­ding a distinc­ti­ve silhouette.

Par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking is the impo­sing clock tower of Uni­on Sta­ti­on, which domi­na­tes the eas­tern side of the buil­ding. It rises about 70 meters abo­ve its sur­roun­dings and forms a land­mark visi­ble from afar. Its slen­der form con­trasts with the broad buil­ding wings and the mas­si­ve natu­ral stone walls. The com­bi­na­ti­on of clock tower, round-arched win­dows, and steep roof sur­faces is remi­nis­cent of Euro­pean cast­les and medieval urban archi­tec­tu­re, but it was deve­lo­ped for the requi­re­ments of a modern rail­way station.

The his­to­ric buil­ding com­plex essen­ti­al­ly con­sists of three func­tion­al are­as: the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve Recep­ti­on buil­ding, the so-cal­led Head­house, a con­nec­ting pas­sa­ge area and the lar­ge plat­form hall. While the recep­ti­on buil­ding accom­mo­da­ted tra­ve­lers with wai­ting are­as, ticket coun­ters and dining opti­ons, the com­plex behind it ser­ved as access to the indi­vi­du­al trains.

One of the most signi­fi­cant inte­ri­or spaces is the Grand Hall, the station’s ori­gi­nal lar­ge wai­ting hall. Its bar­rel vault, about 20 meters high, was desi­gned with ela­bo­ra­te stuc­co work, gild­ed deco­ra­ti­ons and lar­ge-sca­le wall pain­tings. Stained-glass win­dows and monu­men­tal light fix­tures com­ple­ment the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve fur­nis­hings. The design makes clear the cla­im of con­vey­ing to tra­ve­lers, as soon as they enter the sta­ti­on, an impres­si­on of the city’s eco­no­mic strength and cul­tu­ral significance.

Spe­cial atten­ti­on should be given to the ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned win­dow instal­la­ti­on, known as the Alle­go­ri­cal Win­dow. Its depic­tion reflects St. Louis’s role as a con­nec­ting rail­way hub bet­ween the major Ame­ri­can metro­po­li­ses. The deco­ra­ti­ve design of the Grand Hall thus demons­tra­tes not only craft­sman­ship and artis­tic qua­li­ty, but also has sym­bo­lic signi­fi­can­ce for the city’s posi­ti­on in the natio­nal trans­port network.

A com­ple­te­ly dif­fe­rent struc­tu­ral chall­enge was posed by the immense plat­form hall behind the main buil­ding. It was desi­gned by engi­neer Geor­ge H. Pegram, who deve­lo­ped a spe­cial steel truss con­s­truc­tion. The Pegram Trus­sesnamed after him made lar­ge spans pos­si­ble and crea­ted a lar­ge­ly column-free roof over the tracks run­ning clo­se together.

The ori­gi­nal Train Shed of Uni­on Sta­ti­onwas, at the time of its con­s­truc­tion, one of the lar­gest cover­ed rail­road faci­li­ties in the world. The roof struc­tu­re span­ned 32 tracks and cover­ed an area of more than ten hec­ta­res. Its immense dimen­si­ons illus­tra­te the orga­niza­tio­nal and tech­ni­cal com­ple­xi­ty of rail­road ope­ra­ti­ons at the time. Hundreds of pas­sen­gers could board and ali­ght at the same time, while lug­ga­ge, mail, and other trans­por­ted goods were moved along sepa­ra­te routes.

The steel struc­tu­re of the hall con­sis­t­ent­ly fol­lo­wed func­tion­al requi­re­ments. Lar­ge lat­ti­ce gir­ders dis­tri­bu­ted the roof loads to com­pa­ra­tively few sup­ports. This crea­ted broad, con­ti­nuous are­as that pro­vi­ded enough space for the plat­forms and the move­ment of tra­ve­lers. At the same time, the roof struc­tu­re allo­wed exten­si­ve natu­ral light­ing of the interior.

It is pre­cis­e­ly the con­trast bet­ween the his­to­ric sta­ti­on buil­ding and the tech­ni­cal hall that makes Uni­on Sta­ti­on archi­tec­tu­ral­ly espe­ci­al­ly inte­res­t­ing. While the Head­house is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by repre­sen­ta­ti­ve natu­ral stone archi­tec­tu­re and deco­ra­ti­ve design, the Train Shed focu­ses on the struc­tu­ral pro­per­ties of steel and glass. Howe­ver, both are­as were plan­ned as a uni­fied com­plex and tog­e­ther form an excep­tio­nal exam­p­le of the com­bi­na­ti­on of archi­tec­tu­re and civil engineering.

During the cour­se of the 20th cen­tu­ry, indi­vi­du­al are­as of the sta­ti­on com­plex were alte­red seve­ral times. The expan­si­on of the track faci­li­ties, tech­ni­cal moder­niza­ti­ons, and later con­ver­si­ons led to dif­fe­rent struc­tu­ral adjus­t­ments. Nevert­hel­ess, the basic struc­tu­re of the his­to­ric sta­ti­on remain­ed lar­ge­ly reco­gnizable. Becau­se of its excep­tio­nal signi­fi­can­ce for Ame­ri­can rail­road and archi­tec­tu­ral histo­ry, Uni­on Sta­ti­on was desi­gna­ted as Natio­nal His­to­ric Land­markand pla­ced under spe­cial pre­ser­va­ti­on protection.

Today, it is abo­ve all the monu­men­tal faca­de, the Grand Hall, and the exten­si­ve steel struc­tu­re of the for­mer plat­form area that defi­ne its archi­tec­tu­ral cha­rac­ter. Even wit­hout regu­lar rail traf­fic, the building’s ori­gi­nal func­tion is still cle­ar­ly dis­cer­ni­ble. The sca­le of the faci­li­ties, the choice of mate­ri­als, and the struc­tu­ral details docu­ment the immense tech­ni­cal effort with which Ame­ri­can rail­roads shaped their cen­tral trans­por­ta­ti­on hubs in the late 19th century.

From historic station to leisure complex – hotel, aquarium and the St. Louis Wheel

With the dis­con­ti­nua­tion of regu­lar pas­sen­ger ser­vice in 1978, St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­onlost its ori­gi­nal func­tion. Like many other major Ame­ri­can rail­way sta­ti­ons, it too faced the chall­enge of fin­ding a new eco­no­mic­al­ly via­ble use. The enorm­ous dimen­si­ons of the train shed, the ela­bo­ra­te his­to­ric fabric and the high main­ten­an­ce cos­ts initi­al­ly made a las­ting future dif­fi­cult. At the same time, a buil­ding of natio­nal archi­tec­tu­ral and trans­port-his­to­ri­cal signi­fi­can­ce had to be preserved.

In the ear­ly 1980s, a com­pre­hen­si­ve reno­va­ti­on and rede­sign of the com­plex final­ly began. The aim was to pre­ser­ve the his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re while enab­ling new uses. For­mer wai­ting and ope­ra­tio­nal are­as were res­to­red, while new com­mer­cial and lounge spaces were crea­ted under the enorm­ous roof of the for­mer plat­form hall. At the time, the pro­ject was one of the lar­gest adap­ti­ve-reu­se pro­jects for a his­to­ric buil­ding com­plex in the United States.

In In August 1985, Uni­on Sta­ti­on was reope­ned as a shop­ping, dining, and hotel com­plex. The new con­cept was based on so-cal­led Fes­ti­val Mar­ket­places, which com­bi­ned his­to­ric buil­dings with shops, restau­rants, and public sea­ting are­as. The for­mer Grand Hall was res­to­red and inte­gra­ted into the new use. At the same time, modern retail space and other faci­li­ties were crea­ted in the area of the for­mer track installations.

The repur­po­sing was an important step in pre­ser­ving the his­to­ric sta­ti­on. Ins­tead of com­ple­te­ly remo­ving the no-lon­ger-nee­ded rail­road infra­struc­tu­re, lar­ge parts of the com­plex were trans­fer­red into a new urban con­text. The ori­gi­nal spa­ti­al struc­tu­re of many are­as was retai­ned. The his­to­ric Train Shedevol­ved from a func­tion­al plat­form cano­py into a lar­ge, ver­sa­ti­le hall used for a wide ran­ge of purposes.

In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, howe­ver, requi­re­ments chan­ged once again. With the trans­for­ma­ti­on of Ame­ri­can retail, the ori­gi­nal shop­ping con­cept incre­asing­ly lost its importance. Fur­ther invest­ments and reno­va­tions beca­me neces­sa­ry in order to keep Uni­on Sta­ti­on attrac­ti­ve as a loca­ti­on in the long term. The com­plex the­r­e­fo­re gra­du­al­ly evol­ved from a pre­do­mi­nant­ly com­mer­cial shop­ping cen­ter into a Lei­su­re and enter­tain­ment dis­trictwith tou­rist attractions.

One of the most important faci­li­ties is the St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­on Hotel, who­se pre­mi­ses are part­ly inte­gra­ted direct­ly into the his­to­ric recep­ti­on buil­ding. The Grand Hall in par­ti­cu­lar is now used as a repre­sen­ta­ti­ve lounge and dining area. The res­to­red archi­tec­tu­ral details, the colo­red glass win­dows and the enorm­ous bar­rel vault give the space a spe­cial atmo­sphe­re. Modern light pro­jec­tions com­ple­ment the his­to­ric design wit­hout chan­ging its fun­da­men­tal archi­tec­tu­ral structure.

Ano­ther signi­fi­cant expan­si­on took place in 2019 with the ope­ning of the St. Lou­is Aqua­ri­um at Uni­on Sta­ti­on. The faci­li­ty was housed in part of the his­to­ric sta­ti­on grounds and expands the com­plex with a lar­ge water-the­med expe­ri­ence world. Dif­fe­rent exhi­bi­ti­on are­as show habi­tats from rivers, lakes and seas. The con­nec­tion bet­ween the his­to­ric rail­way site and a modern aqua­ri­um is emble­ma­tic of the site’s fun­da­men­tal transformation.

Also in 2019, the St. Lou­is Wheelope­ned, a Fer­ris wheel around 61 meters high that now stands out cle­ar­ly from the sur­roun­ding buil­dings. The enc­lo­sed, air-con­di­tio­ned gon­do­las pro­vi­de an ele­va­ted view of the down­town area and the for­mer rail­way faci­li­ties. At the same time, the Fer­ris wheel forms a modern archi­tec­tu­ral accent who­se for­mal lan­guage dif­fers fun­da­men­tal­ly from that of the his­to­ric Uni­on Sta­ti­on buildings.

In addi­ti­on to the aqua­ri­um and the Fer­ris wheel, fur­ther lei­su­re faci­li­ties, restau­rants and public gathe­ring are­as were crea­ted. Dif­fe­rent func­tions thus come tog­e­ther beneath the his­to­ric roof and in the adjoi­ning buil­dings. Cate­ring faci­li­ties, tech­ni­cal struc­tures and modern lei­su­re amen­i­ties make use of are­as that were ori­gi­nal­ly desi­gned enti­re­ly for rail traffic.

A spe­cial role is play­ed here by the water fea­tures and green are­as within the for­mer sta­ti­on com­plex. They divi­de the lar­ge open are­as and crea­te places to stay bet­ween the his­to­ric steel struc­tures and the modern buil­dings. The shel­te­red loca­ti­on within the sta­ti­on com­plex crea­tes an unu­su­al urban space who­se appearance dif­fers mark­ed­ly from the ordi­na­ry streets and squa­res of the down­town area.

Today’s Uni­on Sta­ti­on is an exem­pla­ry demons­tra­ti­on of how lar­ge-sca­le his­to­ric trans­port buil­dings can be pre­ser­ved through new usa­ge con­cepts. The ori­gi­nal sta­ti­on has not beco­me a pure muse­um. Rather, it has been trans­for­med into an inten­si­ve­ly used part of the city. Rail­way histo­ry, his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re and modern lei­su­re acti­vi­tiescoexist here side by side and docu­ment the ongo­ing trans­for­ma­ti­on of Down­town St. Louis.

Union Station at night – steel architecture, water reflections and the blue hour

The St. Lou­is Uni­on Sta­ti­onchan­ges its effect par­ti­cu­lar­ly cle­ar­ly as day­light gives way to arti­fi­ci­al light­ing. While during the day the his­to­ric natu­ral-stone faça­de, the clock tower and the expan­si­ve steel struc­tures take cen­ter stage, in the evening light reflec­tions, colorful­ly illu­mi­na­ted roofs and mir­ror-like water sur­faces incre­asing­ly shape the appearance of the com­plex. It is pre­cis­e­ly this chan­ge that opens up dif­fe­rent pos­si­bi­li­ties for pho­to­gra­phi­cal­ly cap­tu­ring the his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re and its pre­sent-day use.

Even the main faça­de on Mar­ket Street has a spe­cial archi­tec­tu­ral appeal. The striking clock tower, the steep red roofs and the lar­ge round-arched ope­nings form a laye­red com­po­si­ti­on who­se effect chan­ges con­sider­a­b­ly depen­ding on the per­spec­ti­ve. From a grea­ter distance, the elon­ga­ted front of the buil­ding beco­mes visi­ble, while clo­ser view­points empha­si­ze the mas­si­ve natu­ral-stone walls, the careful­ly craf­ted faça­de details and the dif­fe­rent roof shapes more strongly.

With the onset of the Blue hourthe­re is a clear con­trast bet­ween the dimi­nis­hing natu­ral light and the building’s arti­fi­ci­al illu­mi­na­ti­on. The bright natu­ral-stone faça­des stand out against the dark blue sky, while win­dows, ent­ran­ces and street­lights add extra accents of light. The his­to­ric sta­ti­on thus takes on a dif­fe­rent spa­ti­al effect than in day­light. The lar­ge mass of the buil­ding remains reco­gnizable, while the light­ing spe­ci­fi­cal­ly high­lights indi­vi­du­al archi­tec­tu­ral elements.

Par­ti­cu­lar­ly impres­si­ve, howe­ver, is the area of the for­mer plat­form hall. The monu­men­tal steel struc­tu­re of the Train Shedspans lar­ge parts of the pre­sent-day lei­su­re com­plex and shapes the over­all spa­ti­al per­cep­ti­on. The regu­lar arran­ge­ment of the steel beams, the lar­ge spans and the dif­fe­rent levels crea­te a com­plex geo­me­tric pat­tern. The light­ing makes indi­vi­du­al struc­tu­ral ele­ments stand out par­ti­cu­lar­ly clearly.

During the day, the effect is crea­ted pri­ma­ri­ly by the inco­ming light and the dif­fe­rent mate­ri­als of the roof struc­tu­re. In the evening, by con­trast, the arti­fi­ci­al light sources come more stron­gly to the fore. Pur­ple, blue and warm accents of lightalter the per­cep­ti­on of the his­to­ric steel frame­work. This gives the func­tion­al archi­tec­tu­re of the for­mer sta­ti­on an almost stage-like cha­rac­ter, wit­hout its ori­gi­nal struc­tu­re being com­ple­te­ly overshadowed.

The water sur­faces within the com­plex pro­vi­de an addi­tio­nal visu­al appeal. They reflect parts of the roof, the light­ing, and the neigh­bor­ing buil­dings. The reflec­tions chan­ge with the move­ment of the water sur­face and crea­te dif­fe­rent geo­me­tric forms. Espe­ci­al­ly when the water is calm, near­ly sym­me­tri­cal mir­ror images emer­ge, while slight move­ment breaks the light into irre­gu­lar patches of color.

The inter­play of his­to­ric steel archi­tec­tu­re and colo­red water reflec­tionsgives Uni­on Sta­ti­on an unu­su­al pho­to­gra­phic atmo­sphe­re. The mas­si­ve sup­port­ing struc­tures form a sta­ble, cle­ar­ly orga­ni­zed frame, while the reflec­tions on the water chan­ge con­ti­nuous­ly. This crea­tes image com­po­si­ti­ons that reflect both the tech­ni­cal struc­tu­re of the buil­ding and its pre­sent-day use.

The modern faci­li­ties of Uni­on Sta­ti­on also offer distinc­ti­ve sub­jects. The cle­ar­ly visi­ble St. Lou­is Wheelcrea­tes a striking con­trast with its cir­cu­lar design to the straight steel beams and the his­to­ric roof forms. Espe­ci­al­ly at night, the illu­mi­na­ted Fer­ris wheel appears as a cle­ar­ly reco­gnizable geo­me­tric shape. The jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of tra­di­tio­nal rail­road archi­tec­tu­re and modern lei­su­re acti­vi­ties docu­ments the chan­ging use of the enti­re complex.

In the water are­as, ani­mals can also occa­sio­nal­ly be obser­ved making use of the arti­fi­ci­al­ly crea­ted habi­tat. Par­ti­cu­lar­ly noti­ceable are the white heron, which fora­ge for food bet­ween the water sur­faces and the sur­roun­ding struc­tures. Their slen­der body shapes and the light plu­mage sur­faces form a con­trast to the hea­vy steel gir­ders and the dar­ker are­as of the com­plex. Such obser­va­tions expand the pho­to­gra­phic pos­si­bi­li­ties to include motifs that initi­al­ly seem unu­su­al within a lar­ge urban lei­su­re facility.

The spe­cial effect of Uni­on Sta­ti­on ari­ses less from indi­vi­du­al attrac­tions than from the inter­play of its dif­fe­rent com­pon­ents. His­to­ric archi­tec­tu­re, modern lei­su­re faci­li­ties, bodies of water, plants, and arti­fi­ci­al light­ing form a distinct urban space. The ori­gi­nal func­tion as a rail­way sta­ti­on remains reco­gnizable through the lar­ge hall and its con­s­truc­tion, while today’s use adds a new visu­al layer.

It is pre­cis­e­ly this com­bi­na­ti­on that makes the Uni­on Sta­ti­on in St. Lou­is a ver­sa­ti­le sub­ject for archi­tec­tu­ral and urban pho­to­gra­phy. Monu­men­tal natu­ral stone faça­des, wide-span steel struc­tures, and modern light­ing instal­la­ti­ons open up dif­fe­rent per­spec­ti­ves on a buil­ding who­se appearance has chan­ged con­sider­a­b­ly over the cour­se of more than 130 years. The pho­to­graphs docu­ment not only the his­to­ric buil­ding fabric, but also its pre­sent place within a chan­ging Ame­ri­can downtown.

Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis

Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis mit großer grüner Kuppel, zwei Türmen und heller Steinfassade, schräg vom Lindell Boulevard aus gesehen.

Monumental church architecture and unique mosaic art

The Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isis one of the most important church buil­dings in the United Sta­tes and one of the most impres­si­ve examp­les of Roma­nes­que-Byzan­ti­ne archi­tec­tu­re in North Ame­ri­ca. The Catho­lic cathe­dral is loca­ted on Lindell Bou­le­vard in the Cen­tral West End dis­trict and, with its migh­ty towers, light natu­ral-stone faca­des and the wide­ly visi­ble green dome, shapes the sky­line of St. Lou­is. Its unu­su­al archi­tec­tu­ral style com­bi­nes ele­ments of Euro­pean church archi­tec­tu­re with a monu­men­tal design that was deli­bera­te­ly cho­sen at the begin­ning of the 20th cen­tu­ry as an expres­si­on of reli­gious and social significance.

Con­s­truc­tion of the cathe­dral began in 1907 accor­ding to designs by the archi­tect Geor­ge D. Bar­nett. As ear­ly as 1914, the church, which was still not ful­ly com­ple­ted, could be used for the first Mas­ses. Howe­ver, its final artis­tic deco­ra­ti­on took seve­ral deca­des. Par­ti­cu­lar­ly well known is the mosaic coll­ec­tion of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca, who­se around 41.5 mil­li­on glass tes­serae cover walls, vaults and domes over an area of about 7,700 squa­re meters. It is among the lar­gest con­ti­guous mosaic instal­la­ti­ons in the world.

In addi­ti­on to its reli­gious signi­fi­can­ce, the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca has excep­tio­nal archi­tec­tu­ral and art-his­to­ri­cal importance. Monu­men­tal round arches, a lar­ge rose win­dow, and the cha­rac­te­ristic green cop­per main dome give the exte­ri­or a distinc­ti­ve appearance. Insi­de, this design con­ti­nues with Byzan­ti­ne-inspi­red spa­ti­al forms and ela­bo­ra­te mosaics. The Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­is thus com­bi­nes archi­tec­tu­re, sacred art, and more than a cen­tu­ry of city histo­ryinto one of the most remar­kab­le his­to­ric buil­dings in Missouri.

The history of the Cathedral Basilica – the creation of a new cathedral for St. Louis

The crea­ti­on of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isis clo­se­ly tied to the growth of the Catho­lic Church in Mis­sou­ri and the eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ment of St. Lou­is. As ear­ly as the 19th cen­tu­ry, the city had evol­ved from a French tra­ding post into a major Ame­ri­can metro­po­lis. With the gro­wing popu­la­ti­on, the Catho­lic popu­la­ti­on also increased. Immi­grants from Ire­land, Ger­ma­ny, and other Euro­pean count­ries shaped the reli­gious and social life of the regi­on and foun­ded num­e­rous new parishes.

Until the begin­ning of the 20th cen­tu­ry, the his­to­ric Cathe­dral of Saint Lou­is, King of France, now usual­ly refer­red to as the Old Cathe­dral, ser­ved as the archdiocese’s cen­tral cathe­dral church. The neo­clas­si­cal buil­ding is loca­ted imme­dia­te­ly west of today’s Gate­way Arch and com­me­mo­ra­tes the city’s ear­ly Catho­lic histo­ry. Howe­ver, with the growth of St. Lou­is and the shift of important resi­den­ti­al and busi­ness dis­tricts to the west, the desi­re aro­se for a lar­ger and more repre­sen­ta­ti­ve cathedral.

Alre­a­dy under Arch­bi­shop Peter Richard Ken­rickplans for a new buil­ding were con­side­red in the late 19th cen­tu­ry. His suc­ces­sor John Joseph Kaineven­tual­ly acqui­red the pro­per­ty on Lindell Bou­le­vard and News­tead Ave­nue. Howe­ver, imple­men­ta­ti­on of the pro­ject was initi­al­ly delay­ed by finan­cial dif­fi­cul­ties. In par­ti­cu­lar, the devas­ta­ting tor­na­do of 1896, which cau­sed con­sidera­ble dama­ge in St. Lou­is, also strai­ned the archdiocese’s finan­cial resources.

Only under Arch­bi­shop John Joseph Glen­nondid the con­s­truc­tion pro­ject take con­cre­te shape. In Febru­ary 1905, he announ­ced his inten­ti­on to have a new cathe­dral built. The struc­tu­re was to pro­vi­de not only suf­fi­ci­ent space for the gro­wing Catho­lic popu­la­ti­on, but also express the signi­fi­can­ce of the arch­dio­ce­se within the Ame­ri­can Church.

An archi­tec­tu­ral com­pe­ti­ti­on was announ­ced for the design. The com­mis­si­on was award­ed in 1906 to the St. Lou­is archi­tec­tu­ral firm Bar­nett, Hay­nes and Bar­nett, who­se design cal­led for a com­bi­na­ti­on of Roma­nes­que and Byzan­ti­ne archi­tec­tu­re. The decis­i­on in favor of the­se styl­es was unu­su­al, as num­e­rous repre­sen­ta­ti­ve church buil­dings of the time were still stron­gly influen­ced by Neo-Gothic models. The new cathe­dral, by con­trast, was to have an inde­pen­dent cha­rac­ter with monu­men­tal domes, powerful round arches, and an excep­tio­nal inte­ri­or design.

On May 1, 1907, con­s­truc­tion work began. The solemn lay­ing of the cor­ner­stone fol­lo­wed on Octo­ber 18, 1908, and was accom­pa­nied by a lar­ge pro­ces­si­on in which repre­sen­ta­ti­ves of the 77 Catho­lic paris­hes of St. Lou­is at the time took part. The cathe­dral was dedi­ca­ted to Christ the Vic­tor and Lou­is IX of France, the patron saint of the city of St. Louis.

The con­s­truc­tion of the monu­men­tal buil­ding posed a signi­fi­cant chall­enge both orga­niza­tio­nal­ly and finan­ci­al­ly. The exten­si­ve stone­work, the enorm­ous dome struc­tures and the ela­bo­ra­te design of the inte­ri­or requi­red num­e­rous spe­cia­li­zed craft busi­nesses. At the same time, the new cathe­dral was inten­ded to ser­ve per­ma­nent­ly as the reli­gious cen­ter of the arch­dio­ce­se and the­r­e­fo­re had to meet not only func­tion­al but also repre­sen­ta­ti­ve requirements.

On Octo­ber 18, 1914, the first holy mass was cele­bra­ted in the new cathe­dral. The date was deli­bera­te­ly cho­sen to mark the sixth anni­ver­sa­ry of the lay­ing of the cor­ner­stone. By that time, the buil­ding was alre­a­dy lar­ge­ly com­ple­ted, but its artis­tic deco­ra­ti­on was still far from finis­hed. In the fol­lo­wing years, addi­tio­nal cha­pels were desi­gned, altars com­ple­ted, and the first lar­ge-sca­le mosaics installed.

Ano­ther important mile­stone was the solemn con­se­cra­ti­on on June 29, 1926. The cerem­o­ny took place in the cen­ten­ni­al year of the foun­ding of the Dio­ce­se of St. Lou­is and was accom­pa­nied by exten­si­ve church cele­bra­ti­ons. The new cathe­dral had thus ful­ly assu­med its cen­tral reli­gious func­tion, alt­hough work on the artis­tic inte­ri­or deco­ra­ti­on was to con­ti­nue for seve­ral more decades.

The deco­ra­ti­on of the domes, vaults, and wall sur­faces with mosaics, in par­ti­cu­lar, deve­lo­ped into a long-term pro­ject. Eco­no­mic cri­ses, the Second World War, and chan­ging finan­cial resour­ces repea­ted­ly led to delays. Only in 1988 were the last lar­ge mosaic sur­faces com­ple­ted. More than eight deca­des thus pas­sed bet­ween the start of con­s­truc­tion and the com­ple­ti­on of the artis­tic decoration.

The church recei­ved a spe­cial eccle­si­a­sti­cal honor on April 4, 1997, when Pope John Paul II con­fer­red on it the rank of a Basi­li­ca minor. This papal hono­ra­ry title is award­ed to churches that hold a spe­cial sta­tus within the Catho­lic Church becau­se of their reli­gious, his­to­ri­cal, or artis­tic signi­fi­can­ce. Sin­ce then, the buil­ding has offi­ci­al­ly bor­ne the name Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­is.

In Janu­ary 1999, Pope John Paul II visi­ted the cathe­dralduring his trip to St. Lou­is. The visit under­li­ned the importance of the house of wor­ship for the arch­dio­ce­se and also made the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca known bey­ond the region.

Today, the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isremains an acti­ve place of Catho­lic wor­ship and at the same time one of the city’s most important his­to­ric land­marks. Regu­lar ser­vices, church cele­bra­ti­ons, and con­certs com­bi­ne reli­gious use with broa­der cul­tu­ral signi­fi­can­ce. The buil­ding thus docu­ments not only the histo­ry of the Catho­lic Church in Mis­sou­ri, but also the social and archi­tec­tu­ral trans­for­ma­ti­on of an Ame­ri­can metropolis.

Romanesque-Byzantine architecture – The green dome and the monumental façade

The archi­tec­tu­re of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isdif­fers signi­fi­cant­ly from many other major church buil­dings in the United Sta­tes. While neo-Gothic cathe­drals are often cha­rac­te­ri­zed by tall poin­ted arches, slen­der towers, and ver­ti­cal­ly ori­en­ted faça­des, the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca is based on the mas­si­ve forms of Roma­nes­que archi­tec­tu­re and the dome-cover­ed spaces of Byzan­ti­ne church architecture.

The archi­tect Geor­ge D. Bar­nettdeve­lo­ped a design that com­bi­nes both tra­di­ti­ons. The exte­ri­or appearance is shaped abo­ve all by mas­si­ve gra­ni­te faça­des, round-arched win­dows, monu­men­tal por­tals, and two tall bell towers. Insi­de, howe­ver, lar­ge dome spaces, broad-span arches, and rich mosaic deco­ra­ti­ons come more stron­gly to the fore. This deli­be­ra­te com­bi­na­ti­on of dif­fe­rent his­to­ri­cal archi­tec­tu­ral forms gives the buil­ding its unu­su­al archi­tec­tu­ral identity.

Par­ti­cu­lar­ly striking is the lar­ge­ly sym­me­tri­cal­ly desi­gned main faça­de of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca. Two migh­ty towers flank the cen­tral gab­le and, tog­e­ther with the three ent­rance gates, form a cle­ar­ly struc­tu­red over­all com­po­si­ti­on. The towers have seve­ral sta­cked sto­ries, who­se wall sur­faces are enli­vened by nar­row round-arched win­dows, colum­ns, and deco­ra­ti­ve stone orna­men­ta­ti­on. Their upper sec­tions are cha­rac­te­ri­zed by steep, green-cover­ed roofs.

Bet­ween the towers is the lar­ge Rose win­dow abo­ve the main ent­rance. The cir­cu­lar win­dow ope­ning is set into an ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned round-arch field and forms one of the most important deco­ra­ti­ve ele­ments of the wes­tern exte­ri­or faca­de. Its radi­al­ly arran­ged stone ele­ments give the mas­si­ve faca­de a deli­ca­te struc­tu­re. At the same time, the rosette crea­tes a con­nec­tion to Euro­pean church-buil­ding tra­di­ti­ons, in which cir­cu­lar win­dows have play­ed an important role sin­ce the Midd­le Ages.

The three lar­ge ent­rance por­tals lie beneath step­ped round arches sup­port­ed by slen­der colum­ns. This archi­tec­tu­ral arti­cu­la­ti­on rein­forces the impres­si­on of a mas­si­ve yet careful­ly desi­gned stone struc­tu­re. Unli­ke a Gothic cathe­dral, who­se faca­des are often cha­rac­te­ri­zed by rich tra­cery and ver­ti­cal but­tres­ses, here broad wall sur­faces, clo­sed buil­ding volu­mes, and cle­ar­ly reco­gnizable round-arch forms.

The cen­tral focal point, howe­ver, is the lar­ge green dome of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca. It rises abo­ve the cen­tral nave and is among the most striking archi­tec­tu­ral ele­ments of the enti­re buil­ding. With its struc­tu­re, the main dome rea­ches a height of appro­xi­m­ate­ly 67 metersand thus towers cle­ar­ly abo­ve the sur­roun­ding roofs. Its swee­ping form crea­tes a striking con­trast to the straight-lined faça­des and the steep tower roofs.

The dome rests on a tall sub­s­truc­tu­re pier­ced by round-arched win­dows, the so-cal­led Drum. This media­tes bet­ween the domed roof shape and the sup­port­ing struc­tu­ral frame­work. The regu­lar sequence of win­dows, colum­ns, and stone arti­cu­la­ti­on ele­ments breaks up the lar­ge mas­sing and at the same time empha­si­zes the cir­cu­lar geo­me­try of the dome.

A spe­cial effect is crea­ted by the green gla­zed roof tiles, which cover both the main dome and num­e­rous smal­ler roof sur­faces. Their inten­se color stands out cle­ar­ly against the light gray gra­ni­te of the faça­des. Espe­ci­al­ly in suns­hi­ne, the dif­fe­rent mate­ri­als beco­me appa­rent: the natu­ral stone sur­faces appear com­pa­ra­tively mat­te, while the gla­zed roof sur­faces reflect the light more strongly.

The green of the roofs gives the cathe­dral a distinc­ti­ve sil­hou­et­te that remains reco­gnizable even from a grea­ter distance. At the same time, it crea­tes a clear con­trast to church buil­dings in Euro­pean cities, whe­re cop­per roofs often only acqui­re a green tint through natu­ral pati­na­ti­on. At the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca, the color is part of the ori­gi­nal mate­ri­al design and thus a deli­be­ra­te archi­tec­tu­ral feature.

In addi­ti­on to the lar­ge main dome, the buil­ding has seve­ral smal­ler domes and roun­ded sec­tions. They arti­cu­la­te the struc­tu­re and make the dif­fe­rent inte­ri­or spaces reco­gnizable from the out­side. The inter­play of lar­ge cen­tral dome, lower side roofs, and mas­si­ve towerscrea­tes a com­plex roofs­cape that is cha­rac­te­ristic of the Roma­nes­que-Byzan­ti­ne archi­tec­tu­ral style.

The design of the side faca­des fol­lows this prin­ci­ple as well. Lar­ge round-arched win­dows, strong wall pro­jec­tions, and deco­ra­ti­ve frie­zes arti­cu­la­te the long natu­ral stone sur­faces. Indi­vi­du­al sec­tions pro­ject for­ward or rece­de, crea­ting dif­fe­rent zones of shadow. Despi­te its monu­men­tal dimen­si­ons, the archi­tec­tu­re does not appear as a com­ple­te­ly clo­sed block, but rather as a com­bi­na­ti­on of seve­ral careful­ly coor­di­na­ted struc­tu­ral forms.

The exte­ri­or appearance is clo­se­ly lin­ked to the con­s­truc­tion of the inte­ri­or space. The Byzan­ti­ne-inspi­red dome archi­tec­tu­rerequi­res mas­si­ve sup­port­ing struc­tures to absorb the con­sidera­ble loads of the lar­ge vaults. Unli­ke the light, stron­gly ver­ti­cal­ly arti­cu­la­ted spa­ti­al forms of Gothic churches, the spa­ti­al effect here is deter­mi­ned by cen­tral, dome-vaul­ted are­as. The archi­tec­tu­re thus empha­si­zes less a purely upward deve­lo­p­ment than the brin­ging tog­e­ther of dif­fe­rent spaces into a monu­men­tal over­all complex.

Pre­cis­e­ly becau­se of the com­bi­na­ti­on of the­se fea­tures, the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca is one of the nota­ble examp­les of the Roma­nes­que-Byzan­ti­ne church archi­tec­tu­re in the USA. It draws on Euro­pean and ear­ly Chris­ti­an archi­tec­tu­ral forms wit­hout direct­ly repli­ca­ting a sin­gle his­to­ric cathe­dral. Ins­tead, it beca­me an inde­pen­dent design that com­bi­ned the tech­ni­cal and aes­the­tic pos­si­bi­li­ties of the ear­ly 20th cen­tu­ry with tra­di­tio­nal forms of sacred architecture.

The cathe­dral also has a spe­cial place in the city­scape. Its loca­ti­on on Lindell Bou­le­vard in the Cen­tral West Enddif­fers mark­ed­ly from the den­se­ly built-up com­mer­cial cen­ter of down­town St. Lou­is. Wide streets, grea­ter distances bet­ween the buil­dings, and the sur­roun­ding vege­ta­ti­on allow dif­fe­rent views of the faca­de and the green dome. As a result, the buil­ding can be view­ed not only head-on, but also from obli­que per­spec­ti­ves that make its spa­ti­al struc­tu­re stand out par­ti­cu­lar­ly clearly.

For archi­tec­tu­ral pho­to­gra­phy in St. Lou­isthe Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca the­r­e­fo­re offers inte­res­t­ing oppor­tu­ni­ties. Fron­tal shots empha­si­ze the sym­me­try of the towers, por­tals, and the lar­ge rose win­dow. Side views, on the other hand, high­light the inter­play of the dif­fe­rent parts of the buil­ding and pro­vi­de a bet­ter view of the monu­men­tal main dome. In par­ti­cu­lar, the green roofs, the light natu­ral-stone sur­faces, and the fine­ly arti­cu­la­ted round-arched win­dows form cha­rac­te­ristic design elements.

The effect is addi­tio­nal­ly alte­red by the sur­roun­ding trees and the respec­ti­ve light­ing con­di­ti­ons. While open sight­li­nes empha­si­ze the monu­men­tal dimen­si­ons of the church, bran­ches and folia­ge can inte­gra­te the his­to­ric buil­ding into ever­y­day urban life. The Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isthus shows how a stron­gly his­to­ri­ci­zing archi­tec­tu­re can retain an inde­pen­dent cha­rac­ter even within an Ame­ri­can urban land­scape of the 20th and 21st centuries.

Mosaic art in the Cathedral Basilica – 41.5 million glass tiles and eight decades of craftsmanship

The grea­test art-his­to­ri­cal spe­cial fea­ture of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isis loca­ted insi­de the house of wor­ship. Walls, vaults, arches and domes are fit­ted with an excep­tio­nal­ly exten­si­ve coll­ec­tion of reli­gious mosaics. The colorful depic­tions form a deli­be­ra­te con­trast to the com­pa­ra­tively res­trai­ned natu­ral-stone archi­tec­tu­re of the exte­ri­or faça­des and are among the most impres­si­ve examp­les of sacred mosaic art in North America.

The dimen­si­ons of this deco­ra­ti­on are extra­or­di­na­ry. On a total area of around 83,000 squa­re feet, or 7,700 squa­re metersappro­xi­m­ate­ly 41.5 mil­li­on indi­vi­du­al mosaic pie­ceswere pro­ces­sed. The design includes more than 8,000 color shades and was car­ri­ed out over seve­ral gene­ra­ti­ons by num­e­rous artists and spe­cia­li­zed craft busi­nesses. It was not until 1988 that the last major are­as were ful­ly completed.

The long peri­od of crea­ti­on is explai­ned by the enorm­ous tech­ni­cal and artis­tic effort invol­ved. Unli­ke an ordi­na­ry wall pain­ting, a mosaic is crea­ted from num­e­rous indi­vi­du­al­ly cut and assem­bled stones that are embedded in a pre­pared sur­face. Espe­ci­al­ly in the immense domes and vaults of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca, this tech­ni­que requi­red pre­cise coor­di­na­ti­on bet­ween artis­tic design, archi­tec­tu­ral forms, and skil­led craftsmanship.

The so-cal­led Tes­seraefrom which the mosaics are made con­sist most­ly of colo­red glass. Indi­vi­du­al stones reflect light dif­fer­ent­ly and give the lar­ge-sca­le depic­tions a spe­cial spa­ti­al effect. Depen­ding on the inci­dence of light, colors can stand out inten­se­ly or rece­de in the dar­ker are­as of the vaults. In par­ti­cu­lar, gold-colo­red and reflec­ti­ve sur­faces are remi­nis­cent of tra­di­tio­nal Byzan­ti­ne mosaic art, who­se effect is stron­gly deter­mi­ned by its inter­play with natu­ral light.

The roots of this art form go back to anti­qui­ty. In the Byzan­ti­ne Empire, mosaics beca­me an essen­ti­al part of the fur­nis­hings of major churches. The churches of Raven­na in Ita­ly, inclu­ding San Vita­le and San­t’A­pol­li­na­re in Clas­se, in par­ti­cu­lar show the con­nec­tion bet­ween monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­re and ela­bo­ra­te reli­gious pic­to­ri­al pro­grams. The Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca also draws on this tra­di­ti­on, but inter­prets it in the con­text of 20th-cen­tu­ry Catho­lic art.

Num­e­rous inter­na­tio­nal artists and spe­cia­li­zed work­shops were com­mis­sio­ned to exe­cu­te the mosaics. An important role was play­ed by the ori­gi­nal­ly Ger­man firm Puhl & Wag­ner, who­se work was later con­tin­ued by the St. Lou­is-based Raven­na Mosaic Com­pa­nycon­tin­ued. The com­pa­ny name deli­bera­te­ly refers to the Ita­li­an city of Raven­na, which, becau­se of its ear­ly Chris­ti­an and Byzan­ti­ne mosaics, is one of the most important cen­ters of this art form.

Among the key artisans were Paul Heu­duck and his son Arno Heu­duck, who were invol­ved in the exe­cu­ti­on of the mosaics over deca­des. Their work con­tri­bu­ted signi­fi­cant­ly to the cohe­si­ve effect of the exten­si­ve inte­ri­or deco­ra­ti­on. The artis­tic designs of dif­fe­rent desi­gners had to be imple­men­ted in such a way that, despi­te chan­ging styl­es and peri­ods of crea­ti­on, a coher­ent visu­al over­all com­po­si­ti­on emerged.

Even during the ear­ly con­s­truc­tion pha­se, the ela­bo­ra­te­ly deco­ra­ted side cha­pels were also desi­gned. In par­ti­cu­lar, the work of the Tif­fa­ny Com­pa­ny from New Yorkand the Gor­ham Com­pa­nyillus­tra­te the invol­vement of pro­mi­nent Ame­ri­can arti­san work­shops. They took on the design and exe­cu­ti­on of various cha­pels, altars, and deco­ra­ti­ve ele­ments. The com­bi­na­ti­on of inter­na­tio­nal artis­tic tra­di­ti­ons with Ame­ri­can work­shops is thus an essen­ti­al part of the histo­ry of the Cathe­dral Basilica’s creation.

The mosaics fol­low no purely deco­ra­ti­ve con­cept. Rather, they form a com­pre­hen­si­ve theo­lo­gi­cal and his­to­ri­cal ico­no­gra­phic pro­gramthat extends through the various spaces of the cathe­dral. Sce­nes from the Old and New Tes­ta­ment, depic­tions of Chris­ti­an saints, and alle­go­ri­cal motifs are com­bi­ned with events from church histo­ry and the regio­nal histo­ry of St. Louis.

As ear­ly as the Nar­thex, the cathedral’s ent­rance area, mosaics show stages from the life of the French king Lou­is IX., who is vene­ra­ted as a saint and gave the city its name. The­se depic­tions crea­te a direct con­nec­tion bet­ween the church buil­ding and the his­to­ri­cal iden­ti­ty of St. Lou­is. They refer not only to reli­gious the­mes, but also to the city’s French origins.

In the lar­ge domes and vaults, the pic­to­ri­al pro­gram con­ti­nues with exten­si­ve bibli­cal depic­tions. The cen­tral dome in par­ti­cu­lar has a monu­men­tal artis­tic design that was adapt­ed to the cur­ved archi­tec­tu­re. The depic­tions can­not be view­ed like pain­tings on flat wall sur­faces, but ins­tead fol­low the cur­ved forms of the space. This crea­tes a clo­se con­nec­tion bet­ween Archi­tec­tu­re and sacred art.

The design of the mosaics con­tin­ued to deve­lop over seve­ral deca­des. Artists such as Hild­reth Meiè­re, John de Rosen and Mary Rear­doncon­tri­bu­ted dif­fe­rent artis­tic approa­ches. Their works were crea­ted in some cases at wide­ly sepa­ra­ted times and show how ide­as of reli­gious art chan­ged during the 20th century.

An important role was taken on by the Ame­ri­can artist Hild­reth Meiè­re, who from the 1940s onward pro­vi­ded num­e­rous designs for the mosaic deco­ra­ti­on. Her works include, among other things, depic­tions in the domes and vaults as well as orna­men­tal ele­ments that con­nect various are­as of the church inte­ri­or with one ano­ther. Her design was inten­ded to help bring tog­e­ther the indi­vi­du­al works crea­ted over deca­des into a har­mo­nious over­all composition.

The artist from Pol­and, John de Rosenwas invol­ved, among other things, in the design of the lar­ge cen­tral dome. His depic­tions com­bi­ne tra­di­tio­nal reli­gious the­mes with a visu­al lan­guage more clo­se­ly ali­gned with the monu­men­tal spa­ti­al forms. The artis­tic exe­cu­ti­on also had to take into account both the dif­fe­rent vie­w­ing distances and the spe­cial light­ing con­di­ti­ons insi­de the cathedral.

Among the last signi­fi­cant con­tri­bu­ti­ons are the works of the Ame­ri­can artist Mary Rear­don. In the 1980s, she desi­gned seve­ral mosaic sur­faces in the tran­septs and pic­to­ri­al panels with refe­ren­ces to local church histo­ry. With the com­ple­ti­on of the last works in 1988one of the most exten­si­ve mosaic pro­jects in Ame­ri­can sacred art was completed.

The artis­tic effect of the inte­ri­or spaces, howe­ver, does not ari­se sole­ly from the enorm­ous num­ber of glass tes­serae used. What is decisi­ve is the inter­play of dome archi­tec­tu­re, spa­ti­al pro­por­ti­ons, the use of light, and ico­no­gra­phic design. The dif­fe­rent mosaic fields fol­low the archi­tec­tu­ral divi­si­ons and empha­si­ze the spa­ti­al struc­tu­re of the church. As a result, arches and vaults appear not only as load-bea­ring struc­tu­ral ele­ments, but also as car­ri­ers of a coher­ent pic­to­ri­al program.

The fur­nis­hings are com­ple­men­ted by ela­bo­ra­te­ly desi­gned altars, colo­red stained-glass win­dows, and a signi­fi­cant organ instal­la­ti­on. The con­nec­tion bet­ween church music and archi­tec­tu­re has a long tra­di­ti­on in the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca. In addi­ti­on to regu­lar ser­vices, con­certs are also held here, in which the monu­men­tal inte­ri­or spaces pro­vi­de a spe­cial acou­stic and spa­ti­al setting.

The mosaics of the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca of Saint Lou­isare today among the most important sacred art coll­ec­tions of their kind. They docu­ment not only the excep­tio­nal craft­sman­ship of seve­ral gene­ra­ti­ons, but also the artis­tic visi­on of a church that was deve­lo­ped over the cour­se of more than eight decades.

While the mas­si­ve Roma­nes­que-inspi­red exte­ri­or archi­tec­tu­re is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by its clear forms and the distinc­ti­ve green roofs, the inte­ri­or opens up a much more color-rich and orna­men­tal­ly shaped world. It is pre­cis­e­ly this con­trast that makes the Cathe­dral Basi­li­ca an extra­or­di­na­ry church buil­ding. It com­bi­nes the monu­men­tal forms of Euro­pean archi­tec­tu­ral tra­di­ti­ons with a lar­ge-sca­le artis­tic over­all con­cept that has only a few direct coun­ter­parts in the United States.

Soldiers Memorial St. Louis

Südfassade des Soldiers Memorial in St. Louis mit hohen Pfeilern, Skulpturen und Flaggen, davor eine breite Rasenfläche.

War Memorial, Architecture and American Commemoration

The Sol­diers Memo­ri­al Mili­ta­ry Muse­um in St. Lou­isis one of the city’s most important his­to­ric memo­ri­al sites. The monu­men­tal buil­ding is loca­ted on Chest­nut Street in the cen­ter of Down­town and ori­gi­nal­ly com­me­mo­ra­tes the sol­diers from St. Lou­is who lost their lives during the First World War. The memo­ri­al, which ope­ned in 1938, com­bi­nes a строго struc­tu­red, clas­si­cal­ly influen­ced archi­tec­tu­re with monu­men­tal sculp­tures and a spa­cious public com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve area.

Espe­ci­al­ly striking are the four Pega­sus sculp­tu­re groups by the Ame­ri­can sculp­tor Wal­ker Han­cock, which stand at the ent­ran­ces of the buil­ding. They embo­dy the con­cepts Cou­ra­ge, Visi­on, Loyal­tyand Sacri­ficeand give the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al its distinc­ti­ve artis­tic design. The inter­play of monu­men­tal stone figu­res, tall colum­ns and res­trai­ned faça­de sur­faces reflects the ide­as of public com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve archi­tec­tu­re in the United Sta­tes during the 1930s.

Today, the his­to­ric memo­ri­al site includes not only the actu­al muse­um buil­ding but also the Court of Honor, which is dedi­ca­ted in par­ti­cu­lar to tho­se who fell in the Second World War. Addi­tio­nal memo­ri­al are­as com­me­mo­ra­te later mili­ta­ry con­flicts. After exten­si­ve reno­va­ti­on and rede­sign, the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al was reope­ned in 2018. Sin­ce then, the site has com­bi­ned the pre­ser­va­ti­on of his­to­ric monu­ments with modern muse­um inter­pre­ta­ti­on and is one of the nota­ble sights of Down­town St. Louis.

Soldiers Memorial Military Museum – history and architecture of an American war memorial

The histo­ry of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al in St. Lou­isbegan in the years after the First World War. The war of 1914 to 1918 had clai­med mil­li­ons of lives and in num­e­rous count­ries had crea­ted a pro­no­un­ced need for public forms of remem­brance. The United Sta­tes ente­red the war in April 1917 and by the armi­sti­ce in Novem­ber 1918 had sent sub­stan­ti­al troop con­tin­gents to Euro­pe. Many resi­dents of St. Lou­is also ser­ved in the mili­ta­ry. Many of them did not return, while others had to con­ti­nue living with phy­si­cal inju­ries or the psy­cho­lo­gi­cal con­se­quen­ces of their war­ti­me experiences.

As in num­e­rous other Ame­ri­can cities, thoughts also aro­se in St. Lou­is about dedi­ca­ting a per­ma­nent public memo­ri­al to the fal­len. The aim was not mere­ly to erect a sin­gle monu­ment. Rather, the city pur­sued the idea of a con­nec­ted Memo­ri­al Pla­za, which was inten­ded to link the memo­ry of the war dead with the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve rede­sign of the civic center.

In 1923, the citi­zens of St. Lou­is appro­ved the allo­ca­ti­on of six mil­li­on dol­larsfor the acqui­si­ti­on of a lar­ger down­town site and the con­s­truc­tion of a memo­ri­al. The city ulti­m­ate­ly acqui­red seve­ral city blocks in order to crea­te gene­rous public spaces bet­ween the exis­ting admi­nis­tra­ti­ve buil­dings. The pro­ject was also part of the urban plan­ning that was to reor­ga­ni­ze the cen­ter of St. Lou­is with squa­res, parks, and monu­men­tal public buildings.

Howe­ver, the cos­ts of acqui­ring the land pro­ved con­sidera­ble. The funds ori­gi­nal­ly allo­ca­ted were lar­ge­ly nee­ded for the purcha­se of the desi­gna­ted are­as. The­re was initi­al­ly not enough money for the actu­al memo­ri­al buil­ding, so the start of con­s­truc­tion was delay­ed for seve­ral years. Eco­no­mic dif­fi­cul­ties during the Gre­at Depres­si­on also made imple­men­ta­ti­on of the pro­ject more difficult.

Only under Mayor Ber­nard F. Dick­manndid the pro­ject recei­ve new momen­tum. In 1933, he advo­ca­ted for the pro­vi­si­on of addi­tio­nal funds. Public funds and sup­port from govern­ment employ­ment pro­grams ulti­m­ate­ly made it pos­si­ble to rea­li­ze the memo­ri­al. The con­s­truc­tion pro­ject thus com­bi­ned two dif­fe­rent aims: com­me­mo­ra­ting the war dead and crea­ting employ­ment oppor­tu­ni­ties during a peri­od of high unemployment.

The archi­tec­tu­ral design was com­mis­sio­ned from the St. Lou­is office Mauran, Rus­sell & Cro­well. The archi­tects desi­gned a monu­men­tal buil­ding who­se appearance is remi­nis­cent of clas­si­cal temp­le archi­tec­tu­re and at the same time incor­po­ra­tes ele­ments of Art Deco. Cha­rac­te­ristic fea­tures are the sym­me­tri­cal arti­cu­la­ti­on, the hea­vy natu­ral stone faca­des, and the tall, clo­se­ly spa­ced colum­ns that defi­ne the open ent­rance area.

The archi­tec­tu­re of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al thus dif­fers mark­ed­ly from num­e­rous older Ame­ri­can war memo­ri­als, which were often desi­gned as free­stan­ding colum­ns, obe­lisks, or figu­ra­ti­ve monu­ments. In St. Lou­is, ins­tead, a clo­sed buil­ding was crea­ted that com­bi­nes the public memo­ri­al site with exhi­bi­ti­on and assem­bly rooms. The repre­sen­ta­ti­ve exte­ri­or archi­tec­tu­re was inten­ded to con­vey the spe­cial signi­fi­can­ce of the place even befo­re ente­ring the museum.

The faça­de is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by a monu­men­tal colon­na­de and a broad upper cor­nice. Abo­ve the ent­rance are­as is the inscrip­ti­on “TO OUR SOLDIER DEAD”, which refers direct­ly to the ori­gi­nal dedi­ca­ti­on of the monu­ment. The redu­ced geo­me­tric forms and the exten­si­ve stone clad­ding give the buil­ding a seve­re, almost tim­e­l­ess appearance.

The design of the smal­ler archi­tec­tu­ral details also fol­lows this prin­ci­ple. Reli­efs, deco­ra­ti­ve stone­work and sym­bo­lic depic­tions com­ple­ment the faça­de wit­hout over­powe­ring its clear over­all struc­tu­re. The mate­ri­als used under­line the cla­im to per­ma­nence. Light lime­s­tone and mas­si­ve gra­ni­te plinths com­bi­ne the monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­re with the stone sculp­tu­ral groups that were pla­ced at the entrances.

On 21 Octo­ber 1935, con­s­truc­tion work began. The fol­lo­wing year, the pro­ject recei­ved spe­cial public atten­ti­on through a visit by the Ame­ri­can pre­si­dent. On 14 Octo­ber 1936, Frank­lin D. Roo­se­velt offi­ci­al­ly dedi­ca­ted the memo­ri­al site to the war dead of St. Lou­is. Howe­ver, the cerem­o­ny took place befo­re the enti­re buil­ding com­plex had been completed.

The actu­al ope­ning took place on Memo­ri­al Day, May 30, 1938when Mayor Dick­mann han­ded over the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al to the public. This gave St. Lou­is a cen­tral memo­ri­al site that was inten­ded both to com­me­mo­ra­te the fal­len of World War I and to ser­ve the his­to­ri­cal docu­men­ta­ti­on of mili­ta­ry events.

Insi­de, rooms were set up for exhi­bi­ti­ons and com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve events. Of par­ti­cu­lar signi­fi­can­ce is the cen­tral memo­ri­al area with a cenotaph, a sym­bo­lic gra­ve monu­ment for the fal­len. Such monu­ments are of important signi­fi­can­ce, espe­ci­al­ly in con­nec­tion with modern wars, sin­ce num­e­rous sol­diers were buried far from home or their mor­tal remains could not be recovered.

Over the deca­des, Sol­diers Memo­ri­al deve­lo­ped into an important venue for public com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve events in St. Lou­is. Espe­ci­al­ly on Memo­ri­al Day and Veterans Day, the fal­len were remem­be­red here and the histo­ry of the Ame­ri­can armed forces was hono­red. At the same time, society’s per­cep­ti­on of mili­ta­ry con­flicts chan­ged, which also incre­asing­ly expan­ded the tasks of his­to­ri­cal memo­ri­al sites.

Today, Sol­diers Memo­ri­al Mili­ta­ry Muse­umnot only for the memo­ry of the First World War. It also docu­ments how Ame­ri­can com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve cul­tu­re has deve­lo­ped over seve­ral gene­ra­ti­ons. Its monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­re pre­ser­ves the design ide­als of the 1930s, while its muse­um use places his­to­ri­cal events and their impact on indi­vi­du­al peo­p­le and fami­lies in a broa­der context.

Courage, Vision, Loyalty and Sacrifice – The Pegasus sculptures by Walker Hancock

Among the most striking artis­tic ele­ments of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al Mili­ta­ry Muse­umare the four monu­men­tal sculp­tu­ral groups that stand at the nor­t­hern and sou­thern ent­ran­ces of the buil­ding. They were desi­gned by the Ame­ri­can sculp­tor Wal­ker Kirt­land Han­cockand each depict a human figu­re in con­nec­tion with a win­ged hor­se. The repre­sen­ta­ti­ons thus take up the mytho­lo­gi­cal motif of the Pega­susup, but con­nect it with an alle­go­ri­cal state­ment about the expe­ri­en­ces and values of war.

Wal­ker Han­cock was born in St. Lou­is in 1901and recei­ved his artis­tic trai­ning, among other places, at Washing­ton Uni­ver­si­ty in his home­town as well as at the Penn­syl­va­nia Aca­de­my of the Fine Arts. Addi­tio­nal stu­dies took him to Euro­pe, inclu­ding the Ame­ri­can Aca­de­my in Rome. His sculp­tu­ral work was stron­gly ori­en­ted toward the human figu­re and com­bi­ned clas­si­cal design prin­ci­ples with the requi­re­ments of public monuments.

For the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al, Han­cock was ori­gi­nal­ly meant to crea­te sculp­tures show­ing win­ged hor­ses as monu­men­tal flan­king figu­res for the ent­ran­ces. Howe­ver, the asso­cia­ti­on with the Pega­sus motif was not self-evi­dent. In Greek mytho­lo­gy, the win­ged hor­se is often asso­cia­ted with poe­tic inspi­ra­ti­on and extra­or­di­na­ry crea­ti­ve powers. This mea­ning could not be direct­ly trans­fer­red to a war memorial.

Han­cock the­r­e­fo­re deve­lo­ped a solu­ti­on in which human figu­res give the mytho­lo­gi­cal motif a new sym­bo­lic mea­ning. The sculp­tures were not inten­ded to repre­sent mili­ta­ry vic­to­ry or phy­si­cal strength alo­ne. Ins­tead, he asso­cia­ted the win­ged hor­ses with four con­cepts that embo­dy dif­fe­rent human qua­li­ties and expe­ri­en­ces rela­ted to war and mili­ta­ry service.

The four groups in total were given the names Cou­ra­ge, Visi­on, Loyal­ty and Sacri­fice. Their names are incor­po­ra­ted into the gra­ni­te bases and allow the alle­go­ri­cal depic­tions to be iden­ti­fied imme­dia­te­ly. The sculp­tures were car­ved from light-colo­red lime­s­tone and com­ple­ted in 1939, that is, after the offi­ci­al ope­ning of the muse­um buil­ding. Their mas­si­ve forms take up the monu­men­tal archi­tec­tu­re while at the same time crea­ting inde­pen­dent sculp­tu­ral accents.

On the south side of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­alstand the two figu­res Cou­ra­ge and Visi­on. They flank the ent­rance area and, tog­e­ther with the colum­ns behind them, form a sym­me­tri­cal arran­ge­ment. Alt­hough both groups are based on the motif of the win­ged hor­se, they dif­fer cle­ar­ly in the pos­tu­re and pre­sence of the human figures.

The sculp­tu­re Cou­ra­ge – Cou­ra­geshows a male war­ri­or bes­i­de a Pega­sus. The powerful figu­re wears a hel­met and holds a sword, while the other hand tou­ch­es or gui­des the hor­se. The body is desi­gned to be upright and ten­se. The pro­no­un­ced mus­cu­la­tu­re and clear pos­tu­re are based on clas­si­cal depic­tions of heroic figu­res from Greek and Roman art.

The work embo­dies the con­cept of cou­ra­ge wit­hout depic­ting a spe­ci­fic his­to­ri­cal per­son. Cou­ra­ge is the­r­e­fo­re not a depic­tion of an indi­vi­du­al sol­dier, but an alle­go­ry of human bra­very.The sword and the clas­si­cal armor refer to mili­ta­ry con­texts, while the win­ged hor­se intro­du­ces an addi­tio­nal mytho­lo­gi­cal level. The enti­re com­po­si­ti­on con­veys soli­di­ty, deter­mi­na­ti­on, and phy­si­cal strength.

Espe­ci­al­ly in the clo­se-up view, it beco­mes clear how clo­se­ly the human figu­re and the hor­se are con­nec­ted. The warrior’s hand rests on the animal’s head or neck, while the lar­ge wings and mas­si­ve body form of Pega­sus com­ple­ment the figu­re spa­ti­al­ly. The careful­ly mode­led sur­faces and pro­no­un­ced ana­to­mic­al forms show Hancock’s ori­en­ta­ti­on toward clas­si­cal sculpture.

Bes­i­de it is Visi­on – far-sigh­ted­ness or ima­gi­na­ti­on. This sculp­tu­re shows a fema­le figu­re who is like­wi­se accom­pa­nied by a win­ged hor­se. Unli­ke Cou­ra­ge, phy­si­cal strength is not the focus here. Rather, the upright pos­tu­re and rai­sed hand con­vey the impres­si­on of a for­ward-loo­king or gui­ding gesture.

The figu­re can be unders­tood as a sym­bol of the abili­ty to look bey­ond the imme­dia­te pre­sent. In the con­text of a war memo­ri­al, Visi­on may refer to hope for a more peaceful future or to the abili­ty to draw con­clu­si­ons from his­to­ri­cal expe­ri­ence. The­se inter­pre­ta­ti­ons ari­se from the alle­go­ri­cal title and the design, wit­hout the sculp­tu­re pre­scrib­ing a sin­gle defi­ni­ti­ve interpretation.

On the north side of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­alare the two addi­tio­nal groups Loyal­ty and Sacri­fice. They expand the sym­bo­lism to include loyal­ty, soli­da­ri­ty, and wil­ling­ness to sacri­fice. Here too, Han­cock uses clas­si­cal human figu­res in com­bi­na­ti­on with a win­ged hor­se, ther­eby lin­king them to the design of the oppo­si­te ent­rance side.

Loyal­ty – Fide­li­tyis embo­di­ed by a male war­ri­or stan­ding bes­i­de his hor­se and hol­ding a sword. The ges­tu­re is to be unders­tood less as an imme­dia­te act of com­bat and more as an expres­si­on of relia­bi­li­ty and attach­ment. In the con­text of mili­ta­ry ser­vice, the term refers to respon­si­bi­li­ty toward other peo­p­le and to com­mit­ment within a community.

Ano­ther emo­tio­nal dimen­si­on is con­vey­ed by Sacri­fice – Offe­ring. The sculp­tu­re shows a fema­le figu­re with a child in her arms. While the other depic­tions pri­ma­ri­ly sym­bo­li­ze qua­li­ties of indi­vi­du­al adults, Han­cock here broa­dens the view to the fami­ly and social con­se­quen­ces of war. The child makes clear that the effects of mili­ta­ry con­flicts extend far bey­ond the sol­diers direct­ly involved.

The depic­tion of mother and child was not undis­pu­ted during the crea­ti­on of the sculp­tu­re. The addi­tio­nal figu­re cau­sed hig­her cos­ts, and the­re was initi­al­ly dis­cus­sion about how to finan­ce them. In the end, the par­ti­ci­pa­ting stone­ma­son­ry com­pa­ny cover­ed the extra cos­ts. This histo­ry of its crea­ti­on shows that the artis­tic design of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al was also influen­ced by finan­cial and orga­niza­tio­nal conditions.

All four groups have a clo­se rela­ti­onship to the archi­tec­tu­re of the buil­ding. The light lime­s­tone figu­res stand on mas­si­ve gra­ni­te pedes­tals, who­se clear geo­me­tric form har­mo­ni­zes with the colum­ns behind them. At the same time, the orga­nic body shapes of the peo­p­le and hor­ses dif­fer cle­ar­ly from the straight-lined faca­de ele­ments. This con­trast crea­tes a ten­si­on bet­ween archi­tec­tu­ral rigor and figu­ral representation.

The sculp­tures are part of a well-con­cei­ved over­all artis­tic con­cept. Their size and arran­ge­ment were coor­di­na­ted with the monu­men­tal ent­ran­ces, so that they appear neither as mere faca­de deco­ra­ti­on nor as ful­ly inde­pen­dent works of art. They media­te bet­ween the public squa­re and the inte­ri­or of the memo­ri­al building.

In the pho­to­gra­phy of the Pega­sus sculp­turesthe­se con­nec­tions can be brought out par­ti­cu­lar­ly cle­ar­ly. Over­all views show the rela­ti­onship bet­ween the figu­res, their pedes­tals, and the archi­tec­tu­re of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al. Clo­se-ups, on the other hand, empha­si­ze the sculp­tu­ral design, the pos­tu­re of the human figu­res, and the pro­no­un­ced body forms of the win­ged horses.

The two works stan­ding on the south side, Cou­ra­ge and Visi­on, illus­tra­te the ran­ge of alle­go­ri­cal repre­sen­ta­ti­on through their dif­fe­ring expres­si­ons. While Cou­ra­ge pri­ma­ri­ly con­veys phy­si­cal strength and deter­mi­na­ti­on, Visi­on has a cal­mer effect geared toward spi­ri­tu­al ori­en­ta­ti­on. Both sculp­tures form an essen­ti­al part of the artis­tic iden­ti­ty of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al in St. Louis.

With its four Pega­sus sculp­tu­ral groups, Wal­ker Han­cock crea­ted an extra­or­di­na­ry exam­p­le of Ame­ri­can memo­ri­al art of the 1930s. The works com­bi­ne anci­ent mytho­lo­gy, clas­si­cal figu­ra­ti­ve sculp­tu­re, and modern com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve cul­tu­re. They give abs­tract con­cepts a visi­ble form and add an artis­tic dimen­si­on to the memo­ri­al building’s his­to­ri­cal message.

Court of Honor – Commemoration of the World Wars and the development of the memorial site

Imme­dia­te­ly south of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al extends the Court of Honor, a publicly desi­gned memo­ri­al squa­re that expands the ori­gi­nal remem­brance of the fal­len of the First World War with fur­ther his­to­ri­cal per­spec­ti­ves. Tog­e­ther with the muse­um buil­ding, the com­plex forms a con­ti­nuous space of remem­brance within down­town St. Lou­is and is part of the lar­ger Memo­ri­al Plaza.

While the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al was built in the 1930s, the Court of Honor was not crea­ted until after the Second World War. The con­flict from 1939 to 1945 also had pro­found social con­se­quen­ces in St. Lou­is. Num­e­rous resi­dents ser­ved in the mili­ta­ry, work­ed in war-rela­ted indus­tries, or were other­wi­se affec­ted by the poli­ti­cal and eco­no­mic chan­ges. After the war, the­re was the­r­e­fo­re a need to also com­me­mo­ra­te the fal­len of this con­flict in an appro­pria­te public form.

The Court of Honor, ope­ned in 1948was desi­gned accor­ding to plans by the archi­tect Euge­ne Mackey Jr.. Unli­ke the monu­men­tal muse­um buil­ding, the com­plex is con­cei­ved pri­ma­ri­ly as an open memo­ri­al space. Paths, green spaces, and com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve ele­ments form a cohe­si­ve pla­za design that invi­tes a quie­ter stay and per­so­nal reflec­tion on the his­to­ri­cal events.

Among the most important com­pon­ents is a stone memo­ri­al pil­lar near­ly twel­ve meters high, which was desi­gned by the sculp­tor Hil­lis Arnold. It forms a ver­ti­cal focal point within the Court of Honor and stands in a deli­be­ra­te spa­ti­al rela­ti­onship to the faça­de of the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al. Its simp­le, monu­men­tal form dif­fers from the figu­ra­ti­ve Pega­sus sculp­tures of the older memo­ri­al building.

The com­plex is com­ple­men­ted by memo­ri­al walls and inscrip­ti­ons dedi­ca­ted to the fal­len of the Second World War. The design thus uses dif­fe­rent forms of remem­brance. While indi­vi­du­al monu­ments crea­te a public impact through their size and mate­ria­li­ty, the names and inscrip­ti­ons pro­vi­de a more spe­ci­fic con­nec­tion to the peo­p­le to whom the memo­ri­al is dedicated.

With the later mili­ta­ry con­flicts of the United Sta­tes, the signi­fi­can­ce of the enti­re memo­ri­al site also chan­ged. The Kore­an War from 1950 to 1953and the long Viet­nam Warled to fur­ther los­ses and social dis­pu­tes. The memo­ry of the­se wars was gra­du­al­ly incor­po­ra­ted into the design of Memo­ri­al Plaza.

The Viet­nam War in par­ti­cu­lar made it clear that mili­ta­ry com­me­mo­ra­ti­on in the United Sta­tes is not always asso­cia­ted with a uni­form social assess­ment. While the Second World War is often lin­ked to the fight against Natio­nal Socia­list rule and the expan­si­on of the Axis powers, Ame­ri­can invol­vement in the Viet­nam War remain­ed high­ly con­tro­ver­si­al poli­ti­cal­ly and soci­al­ly. A his­to­ri­cal site of remem­brance must the­r­e­fo­re not only docu­ment mili­ta­ry ser­vice and per­so­nal sacri­fice, but also crea­te room for dif­fe­rent expe­ri­en­ces and assessments.

Over the cour­se of deca­des, the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al Mili­ta­ry Muse­umcon­tin­ued to be used, alt­hough both the buil­ding faci­li­ties and the muse­um pre­sen­ta­ti­on incre­asing­ly beca­me in need of moder­niza­ti­on. In par­ti­cu­lar, the requi­re­ments for acces­si­bi­li­ty, air con­di­tio­ning, con­ser­va­ti­on con­di­ti­ons, and con­tem­po­ra­ry exhi­bi­ti­on tech­no­lo­gy had chan­ged signi­fi­cant­ly sin­ce the ope­ning in 1938.

A fun­da­men­tal chan­ge was brought by the coope­ra­ti­on with the Mis­sou­ri His­to­ri­cal Socie­ty, which took over respon­si­bi­li­ty for the ope­ra­ti­on and fur­ther deve­lo­p­ment of the muse­um in 2015. The long-estab­lished his­to­ri­cal socie­ty has exten­si­ve expe­ri­ence in pre­ser­ving and con­vey­ing regio­nal histo­ry. Its invol­vement crea­ted the con­di­ti­ons for a com­pre­hen­si­ve rede­sign of the his­to­ric memo­ri­al site.

In the fol­lo­wing years, the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al was reno­va­ted as part of a pro­ject worth appro­xi­m­ate­ly 30 mil­li­on US dol­lars. The work included the res­to­ra­ti­on of his­to­ric buil­ding sec­tions, the rene­wal of tech­ni­cal sys­tems, and the crea­ti­on of con­tem­po­ra­ry muse­um spaces. At the same time, the adja­cent Court of Honor was also fun­da­men­tal­ly revi­sed in order to streng­then the spa­ti­al and the­ma­tic con­nec­tion bet­ween the two areas.

An important goal was to pre­ser­ve the his­to­ric fabric while making the memo­ri­al more acces­si­ble at the same time. The struc­tu­ral inter­ven­ti­ons were the­r­e­fo­re gui­ded by the ori­gi­nal archi­tec­tu­re, while new pathways and tech­ni­cal faci­li­ties were inten­ded to make use easier. The plan­ning also took into account the expe­ri­en­ces of veterans with disa­bi­li­ties so that the his­to­ric memo­ri­al site would be open to as many peo­p­le as possible.

The rede­sign is espe­ci­al­ly evi­dent in the Court of Honor. The exis­ting pla­za was expan­ded to include a long, nar­row reflec­ting pool, who­se calm sur­face mir­rors the memo­ri­al column and parts of the sur­roun­ding archi­tec­tu­re. The clear form of the pool empha­si­zes the cen­tral axis bet­ween the open pla­za and the muse­um building.

Added to this was the Five Bran­ches Foun­tain, a foun­tain that sym­bo­li­zes the five tra­di­tio­nal bran­ches of the United Sta­tes armed forces: Army, Navy, Mari­ne Corps, Air Force and Coast Guard. Its design reflects the mili­ta­ry signi­fi­can­ce of the memo­ri­al site, while the water fea­tures and green are­as crea­te a cal­mer atmosphere.

The exis­ting memo­ri­al ele­ments for the Korea and Viet­nam wars were also more stron­gly inte­gra­ted into the new path lay­out. Addi­tio­nal monu­ments now also com­me­mo­ra­te peo­p­le from St. Lou­is who lost their lives in later mili­ta­ry ope­ra­ti­ons. As a result, the site deve­lo­ped into a place of remem­brance that spans seve­ral gene­ra­ti­ons of Ame­ri­can mili­ta­ry history.

At the On 3 Novem­ber 2018, the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al Mili­ta­ry Muse­um reope­ned after its exten­si­ve reno­va­ti­on. Sin­ce then, the moder­ni­zed exhi­bi­ti­on spaces have com­bi­ned his­to­ri­cal docu­ments, pho­to­graphs, per­so­nal kee­p­sa­kes and other exhi­bits with an edu­ca­tio­nal approach that focu­ses more stron­gly on indi­vi­du­al biographies.

An important role in this is play­ed by the distinc­tion bet­ween public com­me­mo­ra­ti­on and the his­to­ri­cal exami­na­ti­on of mili­ta­ry events. The Sol­diers Memo­ri­al is both a memo­ri­al and a muse­um.While the archi­tec­tu­re and the memo­ri­al grounds are dedi­ca­ted to the fal­len, the muse­um pre­sen­ta­ti­on makes it pos­si­ble to take a deeper look at the his­to­ri­cal con­texts, per­so­nal expe­ri­en­ces and social impacts of mili­ta­ry conflicts.

The urban set­ting also con­tri­bu­tes to the effect of this place of remem­brance. The Sol­diers Memo­ri­al is loca­ted bet­ween major traf­fic arte­ries and the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve buil­dings of Down­town. Howe­ver, the broad lawns, the faca­des with their tall colum­ns and the orde­red paths crea­te a cle­ar­ly dif­fe­rent spa­ti­al atmo­sphe­re from the sur­roun­ding com­mer­cial streets.

In par­ti­cu­lar, the south faca­de with its flags, the fore­court Court of Honor and the monu­men­tal Pega­sus sculp­turesform a clo­sed ensem­ble who­se archi­tec­tu­ral effect extends bey­ond the indi­vi­du­al monu­ments. The dif­fe­rent mate­ri­als and forms – light natu­ral stone, dark inscrip­ti­ons, water fea­tures and well-kept green spaces – con­nect the his­to­ri­cal and modern com­pon­ents of the com­plex with one another.

The Sol­diers Memo­ri­al thus docu­ments an important chan­ge in Ame­ri­can com­me­mo­ra­ti­ve cul­tu­re. From a memo­ri­al for tho­se who fell in the First World War, it deve­lo­ped into a his­to­ric place that addres­ses dif­fe­rent mili­ta­ry con­flicts and their con­se­quen­ces. The com­bi­na­ti­on of monu­men­tal art, archi­tec­tu­re and muse­um inter­pre­ta­ti­on makes the Sol­diers Memo­ri­al an important part of the histo­ry and public life of St. Louis.

Culture, neighborhoods and Route 66

Weißer Ted-Drewes-Verkaufsbau mit roten Buchstaben und mehreren Giebeln an der Chippewa Street; davor liegen eine Fußgängerquerung, Ampeln und Absperrungen.

The diverse St. Louis away from the major sights

St. Lou­is is not defi­ned only by the Gate­way Arch, the Mis­sis­sip­pi and its his­to­ric archi­tec­tu­reshaped. The city has a diver­se cul­tu­ral iden­ti­ty who­se ori­g­ins are clo­se­ly lin­ked to Afri­can Ame­ri­can music histo­ry, Euro­pean immi­grant com­mu­ni­ties, and the deve­lo­p­ment of Ame­ri­can ever­y­day cul­tu­re. His­to­ric hou­ses, tra­di­tio­nal shops, sports venues, and unas­sum­ing stret­ches of street tell the sto­ry of a major city that has pro­du­ced important cul­tu­ral impul­ses over generations.

Among the most important figu­res is the com­po­ser Scott Jop­lin, who­se rag­time music beca­me known far bey­ond Mis­sou­ri around the turn of the 20th cen­tu­ry. On Del­mar Bou­le­vard, his for­mer home recalls this era. The street its­elf also illus­tra­tes the dif­fe­rent social and eco­no­mic deve­lo­p­ments within St. Lou­is. Modern soc­cer sta­di­ums, long-estab­lished base­ball clubs, and urban sports faci­li­ties com­ple­ment this mul­ti­face­ted picture.

The his­to­ric Rou­te 66is also part of the cul­tu­ral histo­ry of St. Lou­is. Its rou­te through the city con­nects for­mer com­mer­cial streets, tra­di­tio­nal restau­rants, and trans­por­ta­ti­on struc­tures with one of the best-known sym­bols of Ame­ri­can mobi­li­ty. Ted Dre­wes Fro­zen Cus­tard on Chip­pe­wa Street in par­ti­cu­lar recalls the time when Rou­te 66 was one of the most important east-west con­nec­tions in the United Sta­tes. Tog­e­ther with regio­nal spe­cial­ties such as Toas­ted Ravio­li and Brain Sand­wich, this reve­als a side of St. Lou­is who­se signi­fi­can­ce lies less in monu­men­tal sights than in long-estab­lished local traditions.

Scott Joplin House – Ragtime und die afroamerikanische Musikgeschichte von St. Louis

Die Musik­ge­schich­te von St. Lou­isgehört zu den bedeu­tends­ten kul­tu­rel­len Bei­trä­gen der Stadt zur ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Geschich­te. Bereits im aus­ge­hen­den 19. Jahr­hun­dert ent­wi­ckel­te sich die Regi­on zu einem wich­ti­gen Zen­trum popu­lä­rer Musik, in dem unter­schied­li­che euro­päi­sche und afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Tra­di­tio­nen auf­ein­an­der­tra­fen. Beson­ders der Rag­time, eine durch rhyth­mi­sche Ver­schie­bun­gen und syn­ko­pier­te Melo­dien gepräg­te Kla­vier­mu­sik, erlang­te hier eine außer­ge­wöhn­li­che Bedeu­tung. Zu sei­nen bekann­tes­ten Ver­tre­tern gehört der afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Kom­po­nist und Pia­nist Scott Jop­lin, des­sen ehe­ma­li­ges Wohn­haus heu­te als his­to­ri­sche Gedenk­stät­te erhal­ten ist.

Scott Jop­lin wur­de ver­mut­lich Ende der 1860er-Jah­re in Texas gebo­ren und wuchs in einer Fami­lie auf, in der Musik eine wich­ti­ge Rol­le spiel­te. Schon früh beschäf­tig­te er sich mit dem Kla­vier­spiel und ent­wi­ckel­te ein beson­de­res Inter­es­se an den musi­ka­li­schen For­men sei­ner Zeit. Wäh­rend sei­ner Jugend und frü­hen Erwach­se­nen­jah­re reis­te er als Musi­ker durch ver­schie­de­ne Regio­nen der Ver­ei­nig­ten Staa­ten und lern­te dabei unter­schied­li­che Musik­tra­di­tio­nen ken­nen. Beson­ders die Ver­bin­dung euro­pä­isch gepräg­ter Kla­vier­mu­sik mit afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Rhyth­men wur­de zu einer wesent­li­chen Grund­la­ge sei­nes spä­te­ren kom­po­si­to­ri­schen Schaffens.

In den 1890er-Jah­ren ließ sich Jop­lin zeit­wei­se in Seda­lia im Bun­des­staat Mis­sou­rinie­der. Dort stu­dier­te er Musik und ent­wi­ckel­te sei­nen cha­rak­te­ris­ti­schen Kom­po­si­ti­ons­stil wei­ter. Einen ent­schei­den­den Durch­bruch erziel­te er 1899 mit dem Map­le Leaf Rag, der beim Musik­ver­lag von John Stark ver­öf­fent­licht wur­de. Die Kom­po­si­ti­on wur­de zu einem der erfolg­reichs­ten Rag­time-Stü­cke ihrer Zeit und begrün­de­te Jop­lins Ruf als her­aus­ra­gen­der Ver­tre­ter die­ser Musikrichtung.

Anders als vie­le popu­lä­re Unter­hal­tungs­stü­cke jener Epo­che zeich­net sich der Map­le Leaf Rag durch eine sorg­fäl­tig aus­ge­ar­bei­te­te musi­ka­li­sche Struk­tur aus. Die Melo­dien wer­den durch cha­rak­te­ris­ti­sche rhyth­mi­sche Ver­schie­bun­gen geprägt, wäh­rend die lin­ke Hand am Kla­vier eine regel­mä­ßi­ge Beglei­tung über­nimmt. Die­se Ver­bin­dung aus kla­rer Form und kom­ple­xer Rhyth­mik gehört zu den wesent­li­chen Merk­ma­len des klas­si­schen Rag­time. Jop­lin betrach­te­te sei­ne Kom­po­si­tio­nen nicht ledig­lich als Tanz- oder Unter­hal­tungs­mu­sik, son­dern als anspruchs­vol­le Wer­ke, die ein prä­zi­ses und kon­trol­lier­tes Spiel erforderten.

Im Früh­jahr 1901 zog Scott Jop­lin nach St. Lou­is, wo er am dama­li­gen Mor­gan Street, dem heu­ti­gen Del­mar Bou­le­vard, eine Woh­nung bezog. Das erhal­te­ne Back­stein­ge­bäu­de an der Adres­se 2658 Del­mar Bou­le­vardstammt aus dem 19. Jahr­hun­dert und unter­schei­det sich äußer­lich kaum von zahl­rei­chen ande­ren his­to­ri­schen Wohn­häu­sern der Stadt. Sei­ne Bedeu­tung ergibt sich nicht aus einer monu­men­ta­len Archi­tek­tur, son­dern aus der Ver­bin­dung mit einer Per­sön­lich­keit, die die ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Musik­ge­schich­te nach­hal­tig beeinflusste.

Wäh­rend sei­ner Zeit in St. Lou­is wid­me­te sich Jop­lin zuneh­mend dem Kom­po­nie­ren und Unter­rich­ten. Die Ein­nah­men aus dem Ver­kauf sei­ner Noten ermög­lich­ten ihm eine grö­ße­re künst­le­ri­sche Unab­hän­gig­keit. In die­ser pro­duk­ti­ven Pha­se ent­stan­den meh­re­re sei­ner bekann­tes­ten Wer­ke, dar­un­ter The Enter­tai­ner, Eli­te Syn­co­pa­ti­ons, March Maje­s­ticund The Rag­time Dance. Beson­ders The Enter­tai­ner, 1902 ver­öf­fent­licht, gehört heu­te zu den bekann­tes­ten Rag­time-Kom­po­si­tio­nen überhaupt.

St. Lou­is bot Jop­lin ein leben­di­ges musi­ka­li­sches Umfeld. In den Thea­tern, Tanz­lo­ka­len und Unter­hal­tungs­ein­rich­tun­gen der Stadt tra­ten zahl­rei­che afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Musi­ker auf, deren Musik neue rhyth­mi­sche und sti­lis­ti­sche Ent­wick­lun­gen her­vor­brach­te. Beson­ders die Gegend um das Rose­bud Café des Pia­nis­ten und Kom­po­nis­ten Tom Tur­pingehör­te zu den wich­ti­gen Treff­punk­ten der frü­hen Rag­time-Sze­ne. Musi­ker tausch­ten dort musi­ka­li­sche Ideen aus, ent­wi­ckel­ten neue Kom­po­si­tio­nen und tru­gen zur Ver­brei­tung einer Musik­rich­tung bei, die weit über die Gren­zen von Mis­sou­ri hin­aus bekannt wer­den sollte.

Die Ent­wick­lung die­ser Musik lässt sich jedoch nicht von den dama­li­gen gesell­schaft­li­chen Ver­hält­nis­sen tren­nen. Afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Künst­ler waren in den Ver­ei­nig­ten Staa­ten um 1900 wei­ter­hin mit ras­sis­ti­scher Dis­kri­mi­nie­rung und weit­rei­chen­den Ein­schrän­kun­gen ihrer beruf­li­chen Mög­lich­kei­tenkon­fron­tiert. Trotz ihrer wach­sen­den kul­tu­rel­len Bedeu­tung stan­den ihnen vie­le gesell­schaft­li­che und wirt­schaft­li­che Ein­rich­tun­gen nicht gleich­be­rech­tigt offen. Die afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Musik­sze­ne ent­wi­ckel­te sich des­halb häu­fig in eige­nen Ver­an­stal­tungs­or­ten und Netz­wer­ken, die sowohl kul­tu­rel­le Frei­räu­me als auch wirt­schaft­li­che Mög­lich­kei­ten boten.

Jop­lin ver­such­te wäh­rend sei­ner Kar­rie­re wie­der­holt, die­se Gren­zen zu über­win­den. Neben sei­nen erfolg­rei­chen Rag­time-Stü­cken beschäf­tig­te er sich mit grö­ße­ren musi­ka­li­schen For­men und kom­po­nier­te unter ande­rem die Oper A Guest of Honor, deren Par­ti­tur heu­te als ver­schol­len gilt. Spä­ter ent­stand mit Tree­mo­ni­shaeine wei­te­re Oper, in der er afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Geschich­te und gesell­schaft­li­che Fra­gen in einer anspruchs­vol­len musi­ka­li­schen Form behan­del­te. Zu Leb­zei­ten gelang es ihm aller­dings nicht, für die­se Wer­ke eine brei­te öffent­li­che Aner­ken­nung zu erreichen.

Scott Jop­lin starb 1917 in New York, nach­dem sich sei­ne gesund­heit­li­che Situa­ti­on über meh­re­re Jah­re ver­schlech­tert hat­te. In den fol­gen­den Jahr­zehn­ten ver­lor der klas­si­sche Rag­time zunächst an öffent­li­cher Popu­la­ri­tät. Erst im spä­te­ren 20. Jahr­hun­dert setz­te eine brei­te­re Wie­der­ent­de­ckung sei­ner Kom­po­si­tio­nen ein. Beson­ders die Ver­wen­dung von The Enter­tai­ner im Film The Stingaus dem Jahr 1973 mach­te sei­ne Musik erneut einem gro­ßen Publi­kum bekannt.

Heu­te gilt Scott Jop­lin als einer der bedeu­tends­ten afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Kom­po­nis­ten sei­ner Zeit und als wich­ti­ger Weg­be­rei­ter der ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Popu­lar­mu­sik. Der Rag­time beein­fluss­te ins­be­son­de­re die Ent­wick­lung des frü­hen Jazz und gehört zu den prä­gen­den musi­ka­li­schen Strö­mun­gen an der Wen­de vom 19. zum 20. Jahrhundert.

An die­se Geschich­te erin­nert das Scott Jop­lin House Sta­te His­to­ric Siteam Del­mar Bou­le­vard. Das restau­rier­te Wohn­haus ver­mit­telt einen Ein­druck von den Lebens­be­din­gun­gen der dama­li­gen Zeit und doku­men­tiert Jop­lins künst­le­ri­sche Ent­wick­lung. His­to­risch ein­ge­rich­te­te Räu­me und Aus­stel­lun­gen beschäf­ti­gen sich mit sei­ner Bio­gra­fie, sei­nen Kom­po­si­tio­nen und dem musi­ka­li­schen Umfeld von St. Louis.

Das Gebäu­de besitzt dabei eine beson­de­re Aus­sa­ge­kraft. Anders als die monu­men­ta­len Thea­ter und öffent­li­chen Gebäu­de der Innen­stadt steht es für die all­täg­li­chen Lebens­ver­hält­nis­se eines Künst­lers, des­sen Wer­ke welt­wei­te Bekannt­heit erlang­ten. Die ver­gleichs­wei­se schlich­te Back­stein­fas­sa­de des Scott Jop­lin Housever­weist auf eine Kul­tur­ge­schich­te, die sich nicht allein in reprä­sen­ta­ti­ven Bau­ten, son­dern eben­so in gewöhn­li­chen Wohn- und Geschäfts­vier­teln entwickelte.

Die Erhal­tung des his­to­ri­schen Hau­ses macht einen wich­ti­gen Teil der afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Musik­ge­schich­te von St. Lou­issicht­bar. Sie erin­nert an die kul­tu­rel­len Leis­tun­gen jener Musi­ker und Kom­po­nis­ten, die trotz gesell­schaft­li­cher Benach­tei­li­gung ent­schei­dend zur Ent­wick­lung eigen­stän­di­ger ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Musik­for­men bei­tru­gen. Das Scott Jop­lin House gehört damit zu den his­to­risch bedeu­ten­den Kul­tur­stät­ten der Stadt.

Delmar Boulevard – Stadtviertel, Straßenkultur und gesellschaftlicher Wandel

Der Del­mar Bou­le­vard in St. Lou­isgehört zu den Stra­ßen, an denen sich die unter­schied­li­chen Ent­wick­lungs­pha­sen der ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Groß­stadt beson­ders deut­lich nach­voll­zie­hen las­sen. Die lan­ge Ost-West-Ver­bin­dung führt durch ver­schie­de­ne Wohn- und Gewer­be­ge­bie­te und ver­än­dert dabei mehr­fach ihren Cha­rak­ter. His­to­ri­sche Back­stein­bau­ten, klei­ne­re Werk­stät­ten, Geschäfts­häu­ser und moder­ne Ein­rich­tun­gen ste­hen ent­lang der Stra­ße in unter­schied­li­chen städ­te­bau­li­chen Zusammenhängen.

Ursprüng­lich trug ein Teil der Stra­ße den Namen Mor­gan Street. Mit dem Wachs­tum von St. Lou­is wur­den die Ver­kehrs­we­ge erwei­tert und zuneh­mend mit den west­lich gele­ge­nen Stadt­vier­teln ver­bun­den. Wäh­rend des 19. und frü­hen 20. Jahr­hun­derts ent­stan­den ent­lang die­ser Ach­se Wohn­häu­ser, Geschäf­te und gewerb­li­che Ein­rich­tun­gen, die den wirt­schaft­li­chen und gesell­schaft­li­chen Wan­del der Stadt wider­spie­gel­ten. Das Scott Jop­lin House erin­nert noch heu­te an die­se frü­he Entwicklungsphase.

Die archi­tek­to­ni­sche Viel­falt am Del­mar Bou­le­vard unter­schei­det sich von den reprä­sen­ta­ti­ven Stra­ßen­zü­gen rund um Mar­ket Street und Memo­ri­al Pla­za. Statt monu­men­ta­ler öffent­li­cher Gebäu­de prä­gen viel­fach gewöhn­li­che Gewer­be­bau­ten, Werk­stät­ten und his­to­ri­sche Wohn­häu­serdas Stra­ßen­bild. Gera­de die­se all­täg­li­che Archi­tek­tur doku­men­tiert, wie sich St. Lou­is abseits sei­ner bekann­ten Sehens­wür­dig­kei­ten ent­wi­ckel­te und wel­che Bedeu­tung klei­ne­re Unter­neh­men für das wirt­schaft­li­che Leben der Stadt besaßen.

Ein typi­sches Merk­mal ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Geschäfts­stra­ßen ist die enge Ver­bin­dung zwi­schen funk­tio­na­len Gebäu­den und indi­vi­du­ell gestal­te­ten Fas­sa­den. Auto­werk­stät­ten, Repa­ra­tur­be­trie­be und ande­re Gewer­be nut­zen häu­fig älte­re Gebäu­de, deren ursprüng­li­che Archi­tek­tur im Lau­fe der Jahr­zehn­te an ver­än­der­te Anfor­de­run­gen ange­passt wur­de. Neue Tore, Wer­be­schil­der und Wand­ge­stal­tun­gen tre­ten dabei neben älte­re Fens­ter­öff­nun­gen und ursprüng­li­che Mauerstrukturen.

Beson­ders auf­fäl­lig sind die groß­flä­chi­gen Wand­ma­le­rei­en und Fas­sa­den­ge­stal­tun­gen, die an ein­zel­nen Gebäu­den ent­lang des Del­mar Bou­le­vard zu fin­den sind. Sol­che Moti­ve erfül­len unter­schied­li­che Funk­tio­nen. Sie kön­nen auf das Ange­bot eines Unter­neh­mens hin­wei­sen, einen gestal­te­ri­schen Akzent set­zen oder die Iden­ti­tät eines Geschäfts nach außen sicht­bar machen. Gleich­zei­tig ver­än­dern sie die Wahr­neh­mung der umge­ben­den Stra­ßen­räu­me, indem sie ansons­ten funk­tio­na­len Gebäu­den eine eigen­stän­di­ge visu­el­le Wir­kung verleihen.

Gera­de an Werk­statt­ge­bäu­den lässt sich die­se Ver­bin­dung von Funk­ti­on und Gestal­tung beob­ach­ten. Ein groß­flä­chi­ges Wand­bild mit Augen und einem Sport­wa­gen ver­weist bei­spiels­wei­se unmit­tel­bar auf die auto­mo­bi­le Nut­zung des Gebäu­des und ver­bin­det sie mit einer auf­fäl­li­gen gra­fi­schen Dar­stel­lung. Sol­che Fas­sa­den sind kei­ne klas­si­schen Sehens­wür­dig­kei­ten, gehö­ren aber zum unver­wech­sel­ba­ren Erschei­nungs­bild gewach­se­ner Gewerbeviertel.

Die Bedeu­tung des Del­mar Bou­le­vard reicht jedoch über Archi­tek­tur und Stra­ßen­kul­tur hin­aus. Die Stra­ße ist eng mit einem der bekann­tes­ten gesell­schaft­li­chen Phä­no­me­ne von St. Lou­is ver­bun­den: dem soge­nann­ten Del­mar Divi­de. Damit wird eine his­to­risch ent­stan­de­ne sozia­le und wirt­schaft­li­che Trenn­li­nie bezeich­net, die beson­ders zwi­schen Stadt­vier­teln nörd­lich und süd­lich des Del­mar Bou­le­vard sicht­bar wurde.

Die Ursa­chen die­ser Ungleich­hei­ten lie­gen in einer lan­gen Ent­wick­lung von ras­sis­ti­scher Woh­nungs­markt­po­li­tik, wirt­schaft­li­cher Benach­tei­li­gung und räum­li­cher Segre­ga­ti­on. Im frü­hen und mitt­le­ren 20. Jahr­hun­dert schränk­ten dis­kri­mi­nie­ren­de Immo­bi­li­en­ver­trä­ge und ande­re Prak­ti­ken die Wohn­mög­lich­kei­ten afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Ein­woh­ner erheb­lich ein. Ban­ken und Ver­si­che­run­gen behan­del­ten bestimm­te Wohn­ge­bie­te sys­te­ma­tisch schlech­ter, was Inves­ti­tio­nen erschwer­te und lang­fris­tig zu unter­schied­li­chen wirt­schaft­li­chen Ent­wick­lungs­mög­lich­kei­ten führte.

Eine beson­de­re Rol­le spiel­te das soge­nann­te Red­li­ning. Dabei wur­den Wohn­ge­bie­te nach ver­meint­li­chen wirt­schaft­li­chen Risi­ken bewer­tet, wobei ras­sis­ti­sche Vor­ur­tei­le und die Zusam­men­set­zung der Bevöl­ke­rung wesent­lich in die Ein­stu­fung ein­flos­sen. In benach­tei­lig­ten Vier­teln war es dadurch häu­fig erheb­lich schwie­ri­ger, Hypo­the­ken oder ande­re Finan­zie­rungs­mög­lich­kei­ten zu erhal­ten. Die Fol­gen sol­cher Prak­ti­ken wirk­ten über meh­re­re Gene­ra­tio­nen hin­weg und beein­fluss­ten die Ver­mö­gens­bil­dung, den Gebäu­de­zu­stand und die wirt­schaft­li­chen Per­spek­ti­ven ein­zel­ner Stadtteile.

Mit der Sub­ur­ba­ni­sie­rung nach dem Zwei­ten Welt­krieg ver­schärf­ten sich die­se Ent­wick­lun­gen zusätz­lich. Wohl­ha­ben­de­re Haus­hal­te und zahl­rei­che Unter­neh­men ver­la­ger­ten ihren Wohn- bezie­hungs­wei­se Geschäfts­sitz in die Außen­be­zir­ke. In ande­ren Stadt­vier­teln gin­gen Arbeits­plät­ze ver­lo­ren, die Bevöl­ke­rung schrumpf­te und die öffent­li­che Infra­struk­tur geriet zuneh­mend unter Druck. Die dadurch ent­stan­de­nen Unter­schie­de sind bis heu­te ein wich­ti­ges The­ma der Stadt­ent­wick­lung von St. Louis.

Der Begriff Del­mar Divi­de beschreibt des­halb kei­ne tat­säch­li­che admi­nis­tra­ti­ve Gren­ze, son­dern eine his­to­risch gewach­se­ne gesell­schaft­li­che Tren­nung. Auch las­sen sich die viel­fäl­ti­gen Lebens­ver­hält­nis­se der unter­schied­li­chen Stadt­vier­tel nicht allein durch die Lage nörd­lich oder süd­lich einer ein­zel­nen Stra­ße erklä­ren. Den­noch ist der Del­mar Bou­le­vard zu einem all­ge­mein bekann­ten Bezugs­punkt für Dis­kus­sio­nen über sozia­le Ungleich­heit und Stadt­ent­wick­lung geworden.

In den ver­gan­ge­nen Jah­ren ent­stan­den unter­schied­li­che Initia­ti­ven, die den wirt­schaft­li­chen und gesell­schaft­li­chen Aus­tausch zwi­schen den benach­bar­ten Vier­teln stär­ken sol­len. Inves­ti­tio­nen in Wohn­ge­bäu­de, klei­ne­re Unter­neh­men, öffent­li­che Ein­rich­tun­gen und die Gestal­tung der Stra­ßen­räu­me sol­len dazu bei­tra­gen, his­to­risch ent­stan­de­ne Nach­tei­le schritt­wei­se abzu­bau­en. Die Ent­wick­lung ist jedoch lang­fris­tig ange­legt und lässt sich nicht allein an ein­zel­nen Bau­pro­jek­ten beurteilen.

Ein ande­res Gesicht zeigt der wei­ter west­lich gele­ge­ne Del­mar Loop, der sich zu einem bekann­ten Geschäfts- und Kul­tur­vier­tel ent­wi­ckelt hat. Restau­rants, Ver­an­stal­tungs­or­te, Geschäf­te und kul­tu­rel­le Ein­rich­tun­gen prä­gen dort den Stra­ßen­raum. Obwohl bei­de Berei­che durch den Del­mar Bou­le­vard mit­ein­an­der ver­bun­den sind, besit­zen sie unter­schied­li­che städ­te­bau­li­che Struk­tu­ren und eige­ne Entwicklungsgeschichten.

Für die Stadt­fo­to­gra­fie in St. Lou­iseröff­net der Del­mar Bou­le­vard einen Blick auf jene Berei­che, die in klas­si­schen Dar­stel­lun­gen ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Metro­po­len häu­fig weni­ger Auf­merk­sam­keit erhal­ten. His­to­ri­sche Wohn­häu­ser, Repa­ra­tur­werk­stät­ten und indi­vi­du­ell gestal­te­te Gewer­be­fas­sa­den doku­men­tie­ren das all­täg­li­che wirt­schaft­li­che Leben. Ihre Bedeu­tung ent­steht nicht aus monu­men­ta­len Dimen­sio­nen, son­dern aus dem Zusam­men­hang zwi­schen Archi­tek­tur, Nut­zung und städ­ti­schem Wandel.

Die unter­schied­li­chen Stra­ßen­bil­der zei­gen, dass der Cha­rak­ter von St. Lou­is nicht allein durch Down­town und den Mis­sis­sip­pi bestimmt wird. Del­mar Bou­le­vard ver­bin­det Kul­tur­ge­schich­te, All­tags­ar­chi­tek­tur und gesell­schaft­li­che Ent­wick­lun­genzu einem viel­schich­ti­gen Abschnitt des ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Stadt­le­bens. Gera­de die­se Ver­bin­dung macht die Stra­ße zu einem wich­ti­gen Bestand­teil eines umfas­sen­de­ren Stadtporträts.

Baseball, Fußball und Eishockey – Die Sportstadt St. Louis

Sport besitzt in St. Lou­is seit Gene­ra­tio­nen einen hohen gesell­schaft­li­chen Stel­len­wert.Beson­ders Base­ball ist eng mit der Iden­ti­tät der Stadt ver­bun­den. Die St. Lou­is Car­di­nals gehö­ren zu den tra­di­ti­ons­reichs­ten und erfolg­reichs­ten Mann­schaf­ten der Major League Base­ball, wäh­rend die St. Lou­is Blues im nord­ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Eis­ho­ckey und St. Lou­is CITY SC im pro­fes­sio­nel­len Fuß­ball wich­ti­ge Rol­len ein­neh­men. Die unter­schied­li­chen Sport­stät­ten sind zugleich ein Bestand­teil der Archi­tek­tur und Stadt­ent­wick­lung von St. Louis.

Die Geschich­te der St. Lou­is Car­di­nalsreicht bis in das Jahr 1882zurück, als die Mann­schaft unter dem Namen St. Lou­is Brown Sto­ckings gegrün­det wur­de. Nach ver­schie­de­nen Namens­än­de­run­gen eta­blier­te sich Anfang des 20. Jahr­hun­derts die bis heu­te bekann­te Bezeich­nung Car­di­nals. Der Ver­ein ent­wi­ckel­te sich zu einer der erfolg­reichs­ten Mann­schaf­ten im ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Base­ball und gewann zahl­rei­che Meis­ter­schaf­ten der Natio­nal League sowie meh­re­re Titel in der World Series.

Beson­ders die sport­li­chen Erfol­ge des 20. Jahr­hun­derts präg­ten den Ruf von St. Lou­is als Base­ball­stadt. Spie­ler wie Stan Musi­al, Bob Gib­son, Lou Brock und Ozzie Smithgehö­ren zu den bedeu­tends­ten Per­sön­lich­kei­ten der Ver­eins­ge­schich­te. Ihre Leis­tun­gen mach­ten die Car­di­nals weit über die Stadt­gren­zen hin­aus bekannt und tru­gen zur Ent­wick­lung einer aus­ge­präg­ten loka­len Fan­kul­tur bei.

Eine zen­tra­le Rol­le spielt das Busch Sta­di­um in Down­town St. Lou­is, das seit 2006 die Heim­spiel­stät­te der Car­di­nals ist. Das moder­ne Sta­di­on liegt süd­west­lich des Gate­way Arch und wur­de als Ersatz für das älte­re Busch Memo­ri­al Sta­di­um errich­tet. Sei­ne Archi­tek­tur ver­bin­det die funk­tio­na­len Anfor­de­run­gen eines gro­ßen Base­ball­sta­di­ons mit einer bewuss­ten Ein­bin­dung in das städ­ti­sche Umfeld.

Beson­ders cha­rak­te­ris­tisch sind die offe­nen Tri­bü­nen­be­rei­che und die Blick­be­zie­hun­gen zur Innen­stadt. Von bestimm­ten Plät­zen aus lässt sich die Sky­line von St. Lou­is mit dem Gate­way Archerken­nen. Das Sta­di­on ist dadurch nicht voll­stän­dig von sei­ner städ­ti­schen Umge­bung abge­schirmt, son­dern nutzt die Lage im Zen­trum als Teil sei­ner archi­tek­to­ni­schen Wirkung.

Die Eröff­nung fand am 10. April 2006statt. Noch im sel­ben Jahr gewan­nen die Car­di­nals die World Series und fei­er­ten damit einen ihrer bedeu­ten­den sport­li­chen Erfol­ge unmit­tel­bar nach dem Ein­zug in das neue Sta­di­on. Ein wei­te­rer Meis­ter­ti­tel folg­te 2011. Die Ver­bin­dung aus lang­jäh­ri­ger Ver­eins­ge­schich­te, sport­li­chem Erfolg und einer zen­tral gele­ge­nen Spiel­stät­te macht das Busch Sta­di­um zu einem der bekann­tes­ten Sport­or­te in Missouri.

Neben Base­ball besitzt auch Eis­ho­ckey eine lan­ge Tra­di­ti­on in St. Lou­is. Die St. Lou­is Blueswur­den 1967 im Rah­men einer Erwei­te­rung der Natio­nal Hockey League gegrün­det und ent­wi­ckel­ten sich zu einem fes­ten Bestand­teil des pro­fes­sio­nel­len ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Eis­ho­ckeys. Ihre Heim­spie­le tra­gen sie im Enter­pri­se Cen­ter aus, das sich eben­falls in Down­town befindet.

Eine beson­de­re Bedeu­tung erlang­te die Mann­schaft im Jahr 2019, als die St. Lou­is Blues erst­mals den Stan­ley Cup gewan­nen. Im Fina­le setz­ten sie sich gegen die Bos­ton Bru­ins durch. Der Titel­ge­winn lös­te umfang­rei­che Fei­er­lich­kei­ten aus und mach­te die Bedeu­tung des Sports für das gesell­schaft­li­che Leben der Stadt beson­ders deutlich.

Wäh­rend Base­ball und Eis­ho­ckey über lan­ge Tra­di­tio­nen ver­fü­gen, hat sich der pro­fes­sio­nel­le Fuß­ball erst in jün­ge­rer Zeit zu einem zusätz­li­chen Schwer­punkt ent­wi­ckelt. Mit St. Lou­is CITY SCerhielt die Stadt eine eige­ne Mann­schaft in der Major League Soc­cer, die 2023 ihren Spiel­be­trieb auf­nahm. Die Grün­dung knüpf­te zugleich an eine wesent­lich älte­re loka­le Fuß­ball­ge­schich­te an, die von Ein­wan­de­rer­ge­mein­schaf­ten, Ama­teur­ver­ei­nen und regio­na­len Jugend­pro­gram­men geprägt wurde.

Das neue Fuß­ball­sta­di­on wur­de 2022 fer­tig­ge­stellt und trug zunächst den Namen CITYPARK. Seit dem 1. Janu­ar 2025 heißt die Anla­ge Ener­gi­zer Park. Das moder­ne Sta­di­on befin­det sich west­lich der his­to­ri­schen Uni­on Sta­ti­on und besitzt rund 22.500 Zuschau­er­plät­ze. Sei­ne zen­tra­le Lage war Teil eines umfas­sen­de­ren Kon­zepts, den pro­fes­sio­nel­len Fuß­ball mit der Ent­wick­lung der west­li­chen Innen­stadt zu verbinden.

Die Archi­tek­tur des Ener­gi­zer Parkunter­schei­det sich deut­lich von den klas­si­schen ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Mehr­zweck­sta­di­en des 20. Jahr­hun­derts. Die Tri­bü­nen sind ver­gleichs­wei­se steil ange­ord­net und lie­gen nahe am Spiel­feld. Eine weit­ge­hend umlau­fen­de Dach­kon­struk­ti­on schützt gro­ße Tei­le der Zuschau­er­be­rei­che und betont die geschlos­se­ne Form der Are­na. Gleich­zei­tig öff­nen sich bestimm­te Berei­che zum umlie­gen­den Stadtraum.

Die Errich­tung des Sta­di­ons war mit wei­te­ren Inves­ti­tio­nen in das angren­zen­de Umfeld ver­bun­den. Neue Trai­nings­an­la­gen, öffent­li­che Ver­kehrs­we­ge und beglei­ten­de Ein­rich­tun­gen ver­än­der­ten einen Bereich, der zuvor vor allem durch grö­ße­re Ver­kehrs­flä­chen und gewerb­li­che Nut­zun­gen geprägt war. Die Nähe zur Uni­on Sta­ti­on ver­deut­licht dabei, wie unter­schied­li­che Ent­wick­lungs­pha­sen der Stadt unmit­tel­bar aufeinandertreffen.

Beson­ders die Dach­kon­struk­ti­on des Ener­gi­zer Parkbil­det einen auf­fäl­li­gen archi­tek­to­ni­schen Akzent. Die weit aus­kra­gen­den Ele­men­te und die regel­mä­ßi­ge Anord­nung der Trag­wer­ke ver­lei­hen dem Sta­di­on eine eigen­stän­di­ge Sil­hou­et­te. Aus seit­li­chen Per­spek­ti­ven lässt sich die Ver­bin­dung zwi­schen der moder­nen Sport­ar­chi­tek­tur, benach­bar­ten Gewer­be­bau­ten und den his­to­ri­schen Anla­gen der Uni­on Sta­ti­on nachvollziehen.

Damit zeigt sich die Bedeu­tung des Sports nicht allein an den sport­li­chen Erfol­gen der Mann­schaf­ten. Die gro­ßen Sta­di­en und Are­nen wir­ken auch als städ­te­bau­li­che Ori­en­tie­rungs­punk­teund beein­flus­sen die Nut­zung ihrer Umge­bung. Spiel­ta­ge füh­ren Besu­cher in die Innen­stadt, wäh­rend die Anla­gen außer­halb der Ver­an­stal­tun­gen wei­ter­hin das Stadt­bild prägen.

Busch Sta­di­um, Enter­pri­se Cen­ter und Ener­gi­zer Parkste­hen für unter­schied­li­che Gene­ra­tio­nen moder­ner Sport­stät­ten. Gemein­sam ver­deut­li­chen sie, wel­chen Stel­len­wert Sport in der kul­tu­rel­len Iden­ti­tät von St. Lou­is besitzt und wie eng sich die Ent­wick­lung pro­fes­sio­nel­ler Mann­schaf­ten mit der Archi­tek­tur und wirt­schaft­li­chen Ver­än­de­rung der Stadt verbindet.

Route 66 und Ted Drewes – Amerikanische Straßenkultur an der Chippewa Street

Die his­to­ri­sche Rou­te 66 in St. Lou­isist Teil einer der bekann­tes­ten Fern­stra­ßen der Ver­ei­nig­ten Staa­ten. Die 1926 offi­zi­ell ein­ge­rich­te­te Stra­ßen­ver­bin­dung führ­te von Chi­ca­go in Illi­nois über Mis­sou­ri, Kan­sas, Okla­ho­ma, Texas, New Mexi­co und Ari­zo­na bis nach Kali­for­ni­en. Über Jahr­zehn­te hin­weg ent­wi­ckel­te sie sich zu einer wich­ti­gen Ver­kehrs­ach­se für Fern­rei­sen­de, Händ­ler und Men­schen, die neue wirt­schaft­li­che Per­spek­ti­ven im ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Wes­ten suchten.

Die Rou­te 66 besaß aller­dings nie die durch­ge­hend ein­heit­li­che Stra­ßen­füh­rung einer moder­nen Auto­bahn. Viel­mehr setz­te sie sich aus bereits bestehen­den Stra­ßen zusam­men, die im Lau­fe der Jahr­zehn­te mehr­fach aus­ge­baut, ver­legt oder neu beschil­dert wur­den. Auch im Raum St. Lou­is ver­lief die his­to­ri­sche Rou­te 66 über unter­schied­li­che Stra­ßen­zü­ge, deren Bedeu­tung sich mit dem Aus­bau der Ver­kehrs­we­ge veränderte.

Die Lage am Mis­sis­sip­pi mach­te St. Lou­is zu einem wich­ti­gen Über­gangs­punkt zwi­schen Illi­nois und Mis­sou­ri. His­to­ri­sche Brü­cken und ehe­ma­li­ge Durch­gangs­stra­ßen ver­ban­den die Stadt mit den wei­ter süd­west­lich gele­ge­nen Abschnit­ten der Rou­te 66. Beson­ders die alte Chain of Rocks Bridgenörd­lich von Down­town erin­nert an jene Zeit, als der Fern­ver­kehr noch unmit­tel­bar durch bestehen­de Stadt­ge­bie­te und über ver­gleichs­wei­se schma­le Brü­cken geführt wurde.

Mit der zuneh­men­den Ver­brei­tung des Auto­mo­bils ent­stan­den ent­lang der Rou­te 66 zahl­rei­che Betrie­be, die sich auf die Bedürf­nis­se der Rei­sen­den spe­zia­li­sier­ten. Tank­stel­len, Repa­ra­tur­werk­stät­ten, Motels und Restau­rants bil­de­ten eine Infra­struk­tur, die den wach­sen­den Indi­vi­du­al­ver­kehr ver­sorg­te. Vie­le die­ser Ein­rich­tun­gen waren klei­ne Fami­li­en­un­ter­neh­men und ent­wi­ckel­ten über Jah­re hin­weg eine eige­ne regio­na­le Bekanntheit.

Die Rou­te 66 wur­de dadurch mehr als eine rei­ne Ver­kehrs­ver­bin­dung. Sie ent­wi­ckel­te sich zu einem Sym­bol ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Mobi­li­tät, indi­vi­du­el­ler Rei­se­frei­heit und wirt­schaft­li­cher Auf­bruchs­stim­mung. Zugleich gehört zu ihrer Geschich­te die unglei­che gesell­schaft­li­che Wirk­lich­keit des dama­li­gen Rei­sens: Wäh­rend vie­le Ame­ri­ka­ner neue Mög­lich­kei­ten ent­deck­ten, waren afro­ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Rei­sen­de ent­lang der Stre­cke auf­grund ras­sis­ti­scher Dis­kri­mi­nie­rung häu­fig erheb­li­chen Ein­schrän­kun­gen ausgesetzt.

Mit dem Bau moder­ner Inter­sta­te High­ways ver­lor die Rou­te 66 ab den 1950er-Jah­ren schritt­wei­se ihre ursprüng­li­che Bedeu­tung. Schnel­le­re und leis­tungs­fä­hi­ge­re Fern­stra­ßen führ­ten zuneh­mend an den alten Orts­zen­tren vor­bei. Vie­le tra­di­tio­nel­le Stra­ßen­be­trie­be ver­lo­ren dadurch ihre wirt­schaft­li­che Grund­la­ge. Im Jahr 1985 wur­de die Rou­te 66 offi­zi­ell aus dem ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Bun­des­fern­stra­ßen­netz gestri­chen.

Den­noch blieb ihre kul­tu­rel­le Bedeu­tung bestehen. His­to­ri­sche Stra­ßen­ab­schnit­te, ehe­ma­li­ge Tank­stel­len und tra­di­tio­nel­le Restau­rants wur­den zu Erin­ne­rungs­or­ten einer beson­de­ren Epo­che ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Ver­kehrs­ge­schich­te. Beson­ders im Zusam­men­hang mit dem wach­sen­den Inter­es­se an his­to­ri­schen Fern­stra­ßen ent­wi­ckel­te sich die Rou­te 66 zu einem eigen­stän­di­gen Reiseziel.

Einer der bekann­tes­ten erhal­te­nen Betrie­be an der Rou­te 66 in St. Lou­isist Ted Dre­wes Fro­zen Cus­tard an der Chip­pe­wa Street. Das fami­li­en­ge­führ­te Unter­neh­men besitzt eine unge­wöhn­lich lan­ge Geschich­te und gehört zu den bekann­tes­ten kuli­na­ri­schen Ein­rich­tun­gen der Stadt.

Gegrün­det wur­de das Unter­neh­men von Ted Dre­wes Sr., einem erfolg­rei­chen ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Ten­nis­spie­ler. Im Jahr 1929 eröff­ne­te er wäh­rend eines Auf­ent­halts in Flo­ri­da sei­nen ers­ten Ver­kaufs­stand für Fro­zen Cus­tard. Das Geschäft erwies sich als erfolg­reich, sodass er die Idee im fol­gen­den Jahr nach St. Lou­is über­trug. 1930 ent­stand eine ers­te Nie­der­las­sung an der Natu­ral Bridge Road, 1931 folg­te ein wei­te­rer Stand­ort an der South Grand Avenue.

Die bis heu­te beson­ders bekann­te Filia­le an der 6726 Chip­pe­wa Street wur­de 1941 eröff­net. Sie liegt an einem his­to­ri­schen Abschnitt der Rou­te 66 und ent­wi­ckel­te sich rasch zu einem belieb­ten Anlauf­punkt für Rei­sen­de und Ein­woh­ner der Stadt. Das ver­gleichs­wei­se ein­fa­che Gebäu­de mit sei­ner auf­fäl­li­gen Beschil­de­rung und den Aus­ga­be­fens­tern ent­spricht bis heu­te dem Cha­rak­ter eines tra­di­tio­nel­len ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Frozen-Custard-Stands.

Das ange­bo­te­ne Fro­zen Cus­tardunter­schei­det sich in sei­ner Zusam­men­set­zung von gewöhn­li­chem Spei­se­eis. Neben Milch und Sah­ne ent­hält es Eigelb, das zu einer beson­ders dich­ten und cre­mi­gen Kon­sis­tenz bei­trägt. Bei der Her­stel­lung wird ver­gleichs­wei­se wenig Luft ein­ge­ar­bei­tet, wodurch das gefro­re­ne Des­sert eine fes­te, zugleich geschmei­di­ge Struk­tur erhält.

Beson­ders bekannt wur­de Ted Dre­wes durch den soge­nann­ten Con­cre­te, eine aus­ge­spro­chen dicke Fro­zen-Cus­tard-Spe­zia­li­tät, die mit unter­schied­li­chen Zuta­ten ver­mischt wird. Die heu­te bekann­te Form ent­stand 1959, nach­dem ein jugend­li­cher Stamm­kun­de wie­der­holt ein beson­ders fes­tes Des­sert ver­langt hat­te. Ted Dre­wes Jr. ent­wi­ckel­te dar­auf­hin eine Mischung, deren Kon­sis­tenz so dicht war, dass sie beim Umdre­hen des Bechers nicht herausfiel.

Aus die­ser unge­wöhn­li­chen Eigen­schaft ent­wi­ckel­te sich ein Mar­ken­zei­chen des Unter­neh­mens. Noch heu­te gehört das kurz­zei­ti­ge Umdre­hen eines frisch zube­rei­te­ten Con­cre­tes zu den bekann­ten Tra­di­tio­nen von Ted Dre­wes. Die beson­de­re Zube­rei­tung wur­de damit eben­so Teil der loka­len Ess­kul­tur wie der ursprüng­li­che Ver­kaufs­stand selbst.

Eine wei­te­re Beson­der­heit ist der sai­so­na­le Weih­nachts­baum­ver­kauf, mit dem das Unter­neh­men seit 1952 sei­ne wirt­schaft­li­chen Akti­vi­tä­ten wäh­rend der kal­ten Jah­res­zeit ergänzt. Die Ver­bin­dung zwi­schen som­mer­li­chem Fro­zen Cus­tard und win­ter­li­chem Weih­nachts­baum­han­del gehört zu den unge­wöhn­li­che­ren Aspek­ten die­ser Familiengeschichte.

Der Stand­ort an der Chip­pe­wa Street ver­mit­telt noch heu­te einen Ein­druck tra­di­tio­nel­ler ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Stra­ßen­kul­tur. Das nied­ri­ge Gebäu­de, die zahl­rei­chen Ver­kaufs­fens­ter und die groß­zü­gi­gen Ver­kehrs­flä­chen spie­geln eine Geschäfts­form wider, die auf den moto­ri­sier­ten Kun­den­ver­kehr aus­ge­rich­tet ist. Anders als bei moder­nen Restau­rant­kom­ple­xen steht hier nicht ein groß­flä­chi­ger Innen­raum im Mit­tel­punkt, son­dern der schnel­le Ver­kauf über die The­ke und der Auf­ent­halt im unmit­tel­ba­ren Außenbereich.

Auch die Archi­tek­tur besitzt eine eige­ne his­to­ri­sche Aus­sa­ge­kraft. Die Gebäu­de­form ist funk­tio­nal und weit­ge­hend schmuck­los, wäh­rend gro­ße Schrift­zü­ge und die kla­re Gestal­tung der Fas­sa­de die Auf­merk­sam­keit der vor­bei­fah­ren­den Ver­kehrs­teil­neh­mer auf sich zie­hen. Das Erschei­nungs­bild erin­nert damit an eine Zeit, in der Unter­neh­men ent­lang ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Fern­stra­ßen vor allem durch ihre Wie­der­erkenn­bar­keit aus der Stra­ßen­per­spek­ti­veauf sich auf­merk­sam machen mussten.

Ted Dre­wes an der his­to­ri­schen Rou­te 66steht somit für eine all­täg­li­che Form ame­ri­ka­ni­scher Kul­tur­ge­schich­te. Der Stand­ort ver­bin­det die Ent­wick­lung des Indi­vi­du­al­ver­kehrs, die Tra­di­ti­on fami­li­en­ge­führ­ter Gas­tro­no­mie­be­trie­be und die loka­le Iden­ti­tät von St. Lou­is. Gera­de weil die Anla­ge ihren ursprüng­li­chen Cha­rak­ter weit­ge­hend bewahrt hat, gehört sie zu den bemer­kens­wer­ten his­to­ri­schen Orten ent­lang der frü­he­ren Fernstraße.

Toasted Ravioli und Brain Sandwich – Kulinarische Traditionen aus St. Louis

Die regio­na­le Küche von St. Lou­isist von unter­schied­li­chen Ein­wan­de­rungs­ge­schich­ten, indus­tri­el­len Arbeits­wel­ten und gewach­se­nen Restau­rant­tra­di­tio­nen geprägt. Neben bekann­ten ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Gerich­ten haben sich zahl­rei­che Spe­zia­li­tä­ten ent­wi­ckelt, die außer­halb von Mis­sou­ri weni­ger ver­brei­tet sind. Beson­ders Toas­ted Ravio­li, Brain Sand­wich und Fro­zen Cus­tardste­hen für unter­schied­li­che Facet­ten die­ser kuli­na­ri­schen Geschichte.

Einen wich­ti­gen Ein­fluss auf die loka­le Ess­kul­tur übten ita­lie­ni­sche Ein­wan­de­rer aus, die sich seit dem spä­ten 19. Jahr­hun­dert in St. Lou­is nie­der­lie­ßen. Beson­ders im Stadt­vier­tel The Hillent­stand eine bedeu­ten­de ita­lie­nisch-ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Gemein­schaft, deren Restau­rants, Bäcke­rei­en und Lebens­mit­tel­ge­schäf­te über Jahr­zehn­te hin­weg das kuli­na­ri­sche Ange­bot der Stadt präg­ten. Vie­le Fami­li­en brach­ten tra­di­tio­nel­le Rezep­te aus Ita­li­en mit und pass­ten sie im Lau­fe der Zeit an ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Zuta­ten und Ess­ge­wohn­hei­ten an.

Zu den bekann­tes­ten Spe­zia­li­tä­ten gehö­ren die Toas­ted Ravio­li, häu­fig kurz als T‑Ravsbezeich­net. Dabei han­delt es sich um gefüll­te Ravio­li, die paniert und anschlie­ßend in hei­ßem Fett frit­tiert wer­den. Trotz ihres eng­li­schen Namens wer­den sie also nicht im her­kömm­li­chen Sin­ne gerös­tet oder getoas­tet. Die gold­brau­nen Nudel­ta­schen besit­zen eine knusp­ri­ge Hül­le und wer­den tra­di­tio­nell mit Toma­ten­sauce bezie­hungs­wei­se Mari­nara sowie gerie­be­nem Par­me­san serviert.

Die Ver­bin­dung zur ita­lie­ni­schen Küche ist unmit­tel­bar erkenn­bar. Ravio­li gehö­ren zu den klas­si­schen gefüll­ten Teig­wa­ren Ita­li­ens und wer­den dort in unter­schied­li­chen regio­na­len Vari­an­ten zube­rei­tet. Die frit­tier­te Form ent­wi­ckel­te sich jedoch zu einer eigen­stän­di­gen ita­lie­nisch-ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Spe­zia­li­tät, deren Popu­la­ri­tät beson­ders mit den Restau­rants von St. Lou­is ver­bun­den ist.

Wo die Toas­ted Ravio­li ursprüng­lich ent­stan­den, ist bis heu­te umstrit­ten.Meh­re­re Restau­rants aus dem Umfeld von The Hill bean­spru­chen, das Gericht erfun­den oder beson­ders früh ange­bo­ten zu haben. Zu den häu­fig genann­ten Betrie­ben gehö­ren das frü­he­re Oldani’s, das spä­te­re Angelo’s bezie­hungs­wei­se Char­lie Gitto’s und Lombardo’s. Beson­ders ver­brei­tet ist die Erzäh­lung, ein Koch habe ver­se­hent­lich Ravio­li in hei­ßes Frit­tier­öl gege­ben und damit eine neue Spe­zia­li­tät geschaffen.

His­to­risch lässt sich die­se Geschich­te aller­dings nicht ein­deu­tig bele­gen. Bereits vor der Popu­la­ri­sie­rung des Gerichts in St. Lou­is waren in den Ver­ei­nig­ten Staa­ten Rezep­te für frit­tier­te Ravio­li bekannt. Den­noch ent­wi­ckel­te sich die Zube­rei­tungs­art spä­tes­tens wäh­rend der ers­ten Hälf­te des 20. Jahr­hun­derts zu einem cha­rak­te­ris­ti­schen Bestand­teil der loka­len Restau­rant­kul­tur. Die ver­schie­de­nen Über­lie­fe­run­gen gehö­ren inzwi­schen selbst zur kuli­na­ri­schen Geschich­te der Stadt.

Heu­te fin­den sich Toas­ted Ravio­li in zahl­rei­chen Restau­rants und Gast­stät­ten von St. Lou­is. Sie wer­den häu­fig als Vor­spei­se oder klei­ne­res Gericht ser­viert und besit­zen inner­halb der regio­na­len Küche einen ähn­li­chen Stel­len­wert wie ande­re loka­le Spe­zia­li­tä­ten, die eng mit einer bestimm­ten Stadt ver­bun­den werden.

Eine deut­lich unge­wöhn­li­che­re Tra­di­ti­on ver­kör­pert das Brain Sand­wich, das vor allem mit der frü­he­ren Schlacht­hof- und Arbei­ter­kul­tur des Groß­raums St. Lou­is ver­bun­den ist. Das Gericht besteht aus panier­tem und frit­tier­tem Tier­hirn, das in einem Bröt­chen oder zwi­schen Brot­schei­ben ser­viert wird. Je nach Restau­rant ergän­zen Senf, Essig­gur­ken, Zwie­beln und wei­te­re Zuta­ten die Zubereitung.

Die his­to­ri­schen Ursprün­ge rei­chen bis in das spä­te 19. Jahr­hun­dert zurück. Damals gehör­ten Schlacht­hö­fe, Vieh­märk­te und fleisch­ver­ar­bei­ten­de Betrie­be zu den wich­ti­gen Wirt­schafts­zwei­gen der Regi­on. Beson­ders die gro­ßen Sto­ck­yards von East St. Lou­isauf der gegen­über­lie­gen­den Mis­sis­sip­pi-Sei­te spiel­ten eine bedeu­ten­de Rol­le bei der Ver­sor­gung der ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Fleischindustrie.

Im Umfeld die­ser Betrie­be ent­stand eine Ess­kul­tur, in der mög­lichst vie­le Tei­le der geschlach­te­ten Tie­re ver­wer­tet wur­den. Inne­rei­en und ande­re weni­ger gefrag­te Pro­duk­te waren oft preis­wer­ter erhält­lich oder wur­den von Beschäf­tig­ten selbst ver­wen­det. Das Brain Sand­wich ent­wi­ckel­te sich aus die­ser wirt­schaft­lich gepräg­ten Tra­di­ti­on und wur­de in ein­fa­chen Gast­stät­ten, Arbei­ter­vier­teln und klei­ne­ren Restau­rants angeboten.

Mit dem Wan­del der ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Ess­ge­wohn­hei­ten und den Ver­än­de­run­gen der Fleisch­in­dus­trie ging die Ver­brei­tung des Gerichts deut­lich zurück. Inne­rei­en ver­lo­ren in vie­len Tei­len der Ver­ei­nig­ten Staa­ten an Popu­la­ri­tät, wäh­rend gleich­zei­tig neue lebens­mit­tel­recht­li­che Anfor­de­run­gen und ver­än­der­te Pro­duk­ti­ons­be­din­gun­gen die Ver­ar­bei­tung beeinflussten.

Den­noch ist das Fried Brain Sand­wich in der Regi­on St. Lou­isnicht voll­stän­dig ver­schwun­den. Zu den weni­gen bekann­ten Gast­stät­ten, die die­se Spe­zia­li­tät wei­ter­hin pfle­gen, gehört Schottzie’s Bar & Grill in South Coun­ty. Der Betrieb ser­viert sei­ne Vari­an­te tra­di­tio­nell mit panier­tem Hirn, Senf, roten Zwie­beln und Essig­gur­ken auf Brot.

Die Zube­rei­tung unter­schei­det sich deut­lich von vie­len ande­ren ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Sand­wich­va­ri­an­ten. Wäh­rend Ham­bur­ger, Pul­led Pork oder Roast­beef vor allem durch die Tex­tur des ver­wen­de­ten Mus­kel­flei­sches geprägt wer­den, besitzt das Inne­re eines Brain Sand­wich eine wesent­lich wei­che­re Kon­sis­tenz. Einen erheb­li­chen Anteil am geschmack­li­chen Ein­druck haben des­halb die Pana­de, die Gewür­ze und die ergän­zen­den Zutaten.

Das Gericht ist heu­te weni­ger ein ver­brei­te­ter Bestand­teil der all­täg­li­chen ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Küche als viel­mehr ein kuli­na­ri­sches Relikt einer frü­he­ren Wirt­schafts- und Arbeits­welt. Gera­de dar­in liegt sei­ne kul­tur­his­to­ri­sche Bedeu­tung. Es ver­weist auf Ess­ge­wohn­hei­ten, die aus den wirt­schaft­li­chen Bedin­gun­gen indus­tri­el­ler Städ­te her­vor­ge­gan­gen sind und teil­wei­se bis in die Gegen­wart über­dau­ert haben.

Eine drit­te Beson­der­heit bil­det das bereits mit der his­to­ri­schen Rou­te 66 ver­bun­de­ne Fro­zen Cus­tard von Ted Dre­wes. Anders als Toas­ted Ravio­li und Brain Sand­wich steht es weni­ger für euro­päi­sche Ein­wan­de­rungs­tra­di­tio­nen oder die Ver­wer­tung indus­tri­el­ler Fleisch­pro­duk­ti­on. Viel­mehr ver­kör­pert es die ame­ri­ka­ni­sche Kul­tur klei­ner, fami­li­en­ge­führ­ter Stra­ßen­be­trie­be, deren Erfolg eng mit dem wach­sen­den Indi­vi­du­al­ver­kehr des 20. Jahr­hun­derts ver­bun­den war.

Auch ande­re Spe­zia­li­tä­ten gehö­ren zur regio­na­len Küche, dar­un­ter die St. Lou­is-style Piz­za, die häu­fig mit dem lokal bekann­ten Pro­vel-Käse zube­rei­tet wird, sowie Gooey But­ter Cake, ein beson­ders reich­hal­ti­ger Kuchen mit wei­cher, süßer Fül­lung. Bei­de Gerich­te ver­deut­li­chen, dass die Ess­kul­tur der Stadt nicht auf weni­ge ein­zel­ne Spe­zia­li­tä­ten beschränkt ist.

Gemein­sam zei­gen die­se unter­schied­li­chen Gerich­te, wie eng Kuli­na­rik, Ein­wan­de­rung, Indus­trie­ge­schich­te und ame­ri­ka­ni­sche All­tags­kul­tur in St. Lou­ismit­ein­an­der ver­bun­den sind. Die ita­lie­nisch gepräg­ten Toas­ted Ravio­li, das his­to­ri­sche Brain Sand­wich und das Fro­zen Cus­tard der Rou­te 66 besit­zen jeweils eige­ne Ursprün­ge und gesell­schaft­li­che Zusammenhänge.

Gera­de die­se Unter­schie­de machen die loka­le Küche inter­es­sant. Sie erzählt nicht nur von Geschmack und Zube­rei­tung, son­dern auch von den Men­schen, Unter­neh­men und wirt­schaft­li­chen Ver­än­de­run­gen, die St. Lou­is über Gene­ra­tio­nen geprägt haben. Die kuli­na­ri­schen Spe­zia­li­tä­ten von St. Lou­issind damit ein eigen­stän­di­ger Bestand­teil der Stadt­ge­schich­te und ergän­zen das Bild der ame­ri­ka­ni­schen Metro­po­le um eine unmit­tel­bar erfahr­ba­re kul­tu­rel­le Dimension.

East St. Louis

Getreidesilos und Förderanlagen von Cargill in East St. Louis im warmen Abendlicht, mit grüner Parkfläche im Vordergrund.

Industrial history and urban landscape on the eastern bank of the Mississippi

Direct­ly oppo­si­te the sky­line of St. Lou­is, on the eas­tern side of the Mis­sis­sip­pi, lies the inde­pen­dent city of East St. Lou­is in the U.S. sta­te of Illi­nois. Alt­hough the two cities are sepa­ra­ted only by the river, they deve­lo­ped under dif­fe­rent poli­ti­cal, eco­no­mic, and social con­di­ti­ons. While St. Lou­is in Mis­sou­ri is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by its his­to­ric busi­ness dis­tricts, sta­te­ly buil­dings, and the Gate­way Arch, East St. Lou­is is lar­ge­ly defi­ned by rail­way faci­li­ties, indus­tri­al infra­struc­tu­re, and exten­si­ve trans­port are­as along the riverfront.

The histo­ry of East St. Lou­is is clo­se­ly tied to the expan­si­on of the Ame­ri­can rail­road net­work and the indus­tria­liza­ti­on of the Mid­west. From a small sett­le­ment on the Mis­sis­sip­pi, it deve­lo­ped in the 19th cen­tu­ry into an important trans­ship­ment point for goods and raw mate­ri­als. Lar­ge live­stock mar­kets, fac­to­ries, rail faci­li­ties, and port ope­ra­ti­ons for­med the basis of an eco­no­mic­al­ly signi­fi­cant indus­tri­al city, who­se deve­lo­p­ment in the 20th cen­tu­ry was, howe­ver, shaped by pro­found changes.

To this day, the monu­men­tal Car­gill grain silos, the exten­si­ve freight yards, and the num­e­rous road and rail links make this histo­ry visi­ble. At the same time, the Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Parkan excep­tio­nal view over the Mis­sis­sip­pi to the Gate­way Arch and down­town St. Lou­is. It is pre­cis­e­ly the con­trast bet­ween indus­tri­al infra­struc­tu­re, expan­si­ve traf­fic are­as and the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve sky­line on the oppo­si­te river­bank that makes East St. Lou­is a spe­cial part of the cityscape.

East St. Louis in Illinois – Between the Mississippi, industrialization and social change

The histo­ry of East St. Lou­isbegan long befo­re the pre­sent-day city came into being. The eas­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­pi is part of the exten­si­ve river low­land of the so-cal­led Ame­ri­can Bot­tom, who­se fer­ti­le soils and natu­ral trans­por­ta­ti­on rou­tes were alre­a­dy used by Indi­ge­nous com­mu­ni­ties. The regi­on was clo­se­ly con­nec­ted to the pre-Colum­bi­an cul­tu­re of Caho­kia, which bet­ween the 11th and 14th cen­tu­ries pro­du­ced one of the most important sett­le­ment cen­ters in North Ame­ri­ca. Archaeo­lo­gi­cal stu­dies show that sett­le­ment at that time exten­ded over a much lar­ger area than the monu­men­tal struc­tures of Caho­kia pre­ser­ved today.

During the colo­ni­al peri­od, various French tra­ding posts and smal­ler sett­le­ments emer­ged along the Mis­sis­sip­pi. The river for­med the most important trans­por­ta­ti­on link bet­ween the agri­cul­tu­ral inland are­as and the tra­ding cen­ters in the south. Howe­ver, the deve­lo­p­ment of today’s city of East St. Lou­is only began to acce­le­ra­te with the eco­no­mic growth of the 19th century.

The ori­gi­nal sett­le­ment was initi­al­ly known as Illi­nois­town. Its eco­no­mic importance was based main­ly on its imme­dia­te pro­xi­mi­ty to St. Lou­is on the west side of the river. Even befo­re the con­s­truc­tion of per­ma­nent bridges, fer­ries con­nec­ted the two banks and enab­led the trans­port of peo­p­le, live­stock, and trade goods. The fer­ry con­nec­tions were an essen­ti­al part of the regio­nal eco­no­my, as num­e­rous trans­port rou­tes ended at the Mis­sis­sip­pi and could only con­ti­nue after crossing the river.

With the incre­asing expan­si­on of the rail­road net­work, the importance of the eas­tern bank chan­ged fun­da­men­tal­ly. In 1857, the Ohio and Mis­sis­sip­pi Rail­road rea­ched the regi­on, which tied East St. Lou­is more clo­se­ly into the regio­nal and natio­nal rail­road net­work. Other rail­road com­pa­nies fol­lo­wed, so that the sett­le­ment incre­asing­ly deve­lo­ped into the wes­tern ter­mi­nus of num­e­rous rail con­nec­tions. At the same time, its pro­xi­mi­ty to the Mis­sis­sip­pi enab­led the trans­fer bet­ween rail and river transport.

In the year 1861, Illi­nois­town was offi­ci­al­ly ren­a­med East St. Lou­is. The city recei­ved a new muni­ci­pal char­ter in 1865 and deve­lo­ped over the fol­lo­wing deca­des into an inde­pen­dent eco­no­mic cen­ter. The naming unders­cored the clo­se rela­ti­onship to the lar­ger neigh­bor­ing city in Mis­sou­ri, even though the two cities did not share a com­mon admi­nis­tra­ti­on. This poli­ti­cal sepa­ra­ti­on con­ti­nues to this day: St. Lou­is belongs to Mis­sou­ri, whe­re­as East St. Lou­is belongs to St. Clair Coun­ty in the sta­te of Illi­nois.

An important step in its deve­lo­p­ment was brought by the ope­ning of the Eads Bridge in 1874. The new steel bridge made it pos­si­ble for the first time to have a fixed rail con­nec­tion across the Mis­sis­sip­pi at St. Lou­is. This eli­mi­na­ted a major dis­ad­van­ta­ge of the pre­vious fer­ry ser­vice, in which rail­road cars had to be labo­rious­ly trans­por­ted bet­ween the two banks. The direct link to the trans­port rou­tes on the Mis­sou­ri side streng­the­ned East St. Lou­is as a rail­road hub and crea­ted addi­tio­nal con­di­ti­ons for indus­tri­al investment.

Alre­a­dy in the 1870s, lar­ge live­stock tra­ding and meat-pro­ces­sing busi­nesses emer­ged in the area around the city. The Natio­nal Stock Yards, which ope­ned in the neigh­bor­ing area of the later Natio­nal City in 1873, deve­lo­ped into one of the most important live­stock tra­ding cen­ters in the United Sta­tes. Alt­hough the­se faci­li­ties did not belong to the actu­al city area of East St. Lou­is, they were clo­se­ly con­nec­ted to the city eco­no­mic­al­ly and soci­al­ly. Thou­sands of employees work­ed in the live­stock mar­kets, slaugh­ter­hou­ses, and adja­cent businesses.

In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, fur­ther indus­tries were added. Com­pa­nies from the metal­wor­king, che­mi­cal indus­try, glass manu­fac­tu­ring, and rail­way engi­nee­ringtook advan­ta­ge of the favorable loca­ti­on bet­ween the Mis­sis­sip­pi and the major rail con­nec­tions. The eco­no­mic expan­si­on attrac­ted num­e­rous workers and led to strong popu­la­ti­on growth. By the turn of the 20th cen­tu­ry, East St. Lou­is was one of the most important indus­tri­al loca­ti­ons in Illinois.

Howe­ver, the rapid growth also brought con­sidera­ble social ten­si­ons. The city was mark­ed by strong eco­no­mic dis­pa­ri­ties, dif­fi­cult working con­di­ti­ons, and inten­se com­pe­ti­ti­on for jobs. During the so-cal­led Gre­at Migra­ti­onnum­e­rous Afri­can Ame­ri­cans moved from the sou­thern sta­tes to the indus­tri­al cen­ters of the North and Mid­west. They sought employ­ment oppor­tu­ni­ties and hoped to escape the racist laws and vio­lence in the South.

In East St. Lou­is, the new­ly arri­ved peo­p­le encoun­te­red a labor mar­ket in which com­pa­nies some­ti­mes deli­bera­te­ly exploi­ted racial ten­si­ons to wea­k­en orga­ni­zed workers. Com­pe­ti­ti­on for jobs was inten­si­fied by racial pre­ju­di­ce and poli­ti­cal inte­rests. In the sum­mer of 1917, the­se ten­si­ons cul­mi­na­ted in the East St. Lou­is mas­sacre, one of the worst raci­al­ly moti­va­ted acts of vio­lence in ear­ly 20th-cen­tu­ry Ame­ri­can history.

On July 2 and in the days that fol­lo­wed, white mobs atta­cked Afri­can Ame­ri­can resi­dents, des­troy­ed homes and busi­nesses, and kil­led num­e­rous peo­p­le. The exact num­ber of vic­tims is still unknown; his­to­ri­cal esti­ma­tes ran­ge from seve­ral dozen to more than one hundred fata­li­ties. Thou­sands of Afri­can Ame­ri­can resi­dents fled the city. The events spark­ed nati­on­wi­de pro­tests and beca­me an important point of refe­rence for the ear­ly Ame­ri­can civil rights move­ment. The mas­sacre is inse­pa­ra­b­ly lin­ked to the histo­ry of East St. Lou­is and illus­tra­tes the social con­tra­dic­tions of indus­tria­liza­ti­on at the time.

Despi­te the­se events, East St. Lou­is initi­al­ly remain­ed an important eco­no­mic cen­ter. The rail­roads, indus­tri­al plants, and live­stock mar­kets con­tin­ued to employ num­e­rous peo­p­le. In 1950, more than 82,000 resi­dents lived in East St. Lou­is. In 1958, the city was award­ed the All-Ame­ri­ca City, with which civic enga­ge­ment and the deve­lo­p­ment of urban com­mu­ni­ties were honored.

In the second half of the 20th cen­tu­ry, howe­ver, the eco­no­mic con­di­ti­ons chan­ged fun­da­men­tal­ly. The incre­asing auto­ma­ti­on of indus­tri­al pro­duc­tion pro­ces­ses, the relo­ca­ti­on of com­pa­nies, and the decli­ne of tra­di­tio­nal indus­tri­al and trans­port sec­tors led to signi­fi­cant job los­ses. At the same time, the expan­si­on of sub­ur­ban resi­den­ti­al are­as out­side the old city cen­ters encou­ra­ged the depar­tu­re of resi­dents and companies.

The eco­no­mic con­se­quen­ces were pro­found. Decli­ning tax reve­nues made it more dif­fi­cult to finan­ce public insti­tu­ti­ons, while vacant com­mer­cial and resi­den­ti­al buil­dings incre­asing­ly beca­me part of the city­scape. The exis­ting social ine­qua­li­ties were fur­ther exa­cer­ba­ted by the loss of indus­tri­al jobs. Accor­ding to the 2020 cen­sus, the­re were still 18,469 resi­dents, lea­ving the city signi­fi­cant­ly smal­ler than its for­mer popu­la­ti­on size.

Howe­ver, the eco­no­mic trans­for­ma­ti­on can­not be redu­ced to a simp­le sto­ry of decli­ne. East St. Lou­is remain­ed part of the regio­nal trans­por­ta­ti­on and eco­no­mic struc­tu­re. Various indus­tri­al and logi­stics com­pa­nies con­ti­nue to take advan­ta­ge of the pro­xi­mi­ty to the Mis­sis­sip­pi and to major trans­por­ta­ti­on rou­tes. At the same time, initia­ti­ves emer­ged to sta­bi­li­ze the eco­no­my, impro­ve housing con­di­ti­ons, and rede­sign public spaces.

The pre­sent-day city­scape of East St. Lou­isdocu­ments dif­fe­rent pha­ses of Ame­ri­can eco­no­mic and social histo­ry. His­to­ric indus­tri­al dis­tricts, modern trans­port rou­tes, resi­den­ti­al neigh­bor­hoods, and public green spaces are situa­ted in clo­se pro­xi­mi­ty to one ano­ther. The city has its own histo­ry and iden­ti­ty that extend far bey­ond its role as the oppo­si­te bank of St. Louis.

Industry on the Mississippi – rail traffic, Cargill grain silos, and historic port facilities

The indus­tri­al histo­ry of East St. Lou­isis inex­tri­ca­bly lin­ked to its excep­tio­nal trans­port loca­ti­on. On the eas­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­pi, num­e­rous rail­way lines met the water­ways of the Ame­ri­can inte­ri­or as ear­ly as the 19th cen­tu­ry. This con­nec­tion crea­ted favorable con­di­ti­ons for the sto­rage, pro­ces­sing, and onward trans­port of lar­ge quan­ti­ties of goods. In par­ti­cu­lar, com­pa­nies depen­dent on hea­vy raw mate­ri­als or the trans­port of agri­cul­tu­ral pro­ducts bene­fi­ted from the imme­dia­te pro­xi­mi­ty bet­ween the river and rail traffic.

The first major rail con­nec­tions rea­ched East St. Lou­is in the 1850s. Within just a few deca­des, the city deve­lo­ped into one of the most important rail hubs in the Mid­west. Around the turn of the 20th cen­tu­ry, rou­tes of num­e­rous rail­way com­pa­nies ended or began here. In 1905, East St. Lou­is had con­nec­tions from around 27 rail­way com­pa­nies, lin­king the loca­ti­on with the major indus­tri­al and com­mer­cial cen­ters of the United States.

A spe­cial importance was atta­ched to freight trans­port. While St. Lou­is in Mis­sou­ri grew as a busi­ness, trade, and admi­nis­tra­ti­ve cen­ter, exten­si­ve clas­si­fi­ca­ti­on yards, work­shops, and indus­tri­al trans­ship­ment faci­li­tiesemer­ged on the Illi­nois side. Freight trains trans­por­ted coal, metals, live­stock, agri­cul­tu­ral pro­ducts, and finis­hed indus­tri­al goods bet­ween the dif­fe­rent regi­ons of North America.

Rail­way trans­port was thus not only a means of trans­por­ta­ti­on, but also an essen­ti­al foun­da­ti­on of indus­tri­al deve­lo­p­ment. Com­pa­nies were able to obtain raw mate­ri­als in lar­ge quan­ti­ties and sell their pro­ducts over long distances. At the same time, jobs were crea­ted in shun­ting ope­ra­ti­ons, in rail­way work­shops, in loco­mo­ti­ve main­ten­an­ce, and in the num­e­rous busi­nesses that depen­ded direct­ly on the trans­port sector.

Espe­ci­al­ly the Natio­nal Stock Yards in neigh­bor­ing Natio­nal Cityope­ned in 1873 made the regi­on an important cen­ter of Ame­ri­can live­stock tra­ding. The vast faci­li­ties were desi­gned for the trans­port and mar­ke­ting of catt­le, pigs, and sheep. Live­stock ship­ments from agri­cul­tu­ral regi­ons rea­ched the site by rail, while meat pro­ces­sing plants took over the ani­mals and sent the pro­ducts obtai­ned from them to dif­fe­rent parts of the country.

The Natio­nal Stock Yards deve­lo­ped at times into one of the lar­gest live­stock tra­ding cen­ters in the coun­try. Their eco­no­mic signi­fi­can­ce exten­ded far bey­ond the actu­al ope­ra­ting grounds. Employees lived in East St. Lou­is and the neigh­bor­ing com­mu­ni­ties, smal­ler com­mer­cial busi­nesses sup­pli­ed the indus­tri­al workers, and num­e­rous trans­port com­pa­nies were invol­ved in the trans­port of goods. The decli­ne of the major live­stock mar­kets began as ear­ly as the midd­le of the 20th cen­tu­ry; In 1997, the ope­ra­ti­on of the Natio­nal Stock Yards was per­ma­nent­ly dis­con­tin­ued.

In addi­ti­on to the meat indus­try, other indus­tri­al sec­tors shaped the regi­on. Metal­wor­king and steel pro­duc­tion requi­red lar­ge quan­ti­ties of coal and ore, while che­mi­cal com­pa­nies depen­ded on effi­ci­ent trans­port rou­tes. The pro­xi­mi­ty to the rail­roads and the Mis­sis­sip­pi faci­li­ta­ted the sup­p­ly of the­se busi­nesses. This gave rise to an indus­tri­al land­scape in which fac­to­ries, sto­rage are­as, rail­road tracks, and port faci­li­ties stood direct­ly next to one another.

The natu­ral con­di­ti­ons of the eas­tern river­bank also influen­ced deve­lo­p­ment. Lar­ge parts of the Ame­ri­can Bot­tom lie in a flat low­land that his­to­ri­cal­ly was regu­lar­ly affec­ted by floo­ding. Espe­ci­al­ly the Mis­sis­sip­pi flood of 1903cau­sed signi­fi­cant dama­ge in East St. Lou­is. In the fol­lo­wing deca­des, leve­es, drai­na­ge sys­tems, and other pro­tec­ti­ve struc­tures were built to bet­ter safe­guard the indus­tri­al and resi­den­ti­al are­as against flooding.

To this day, this lar­ge­ly flat land­scape deter­mi­nes the spa­ti­al struc­tu­re of the eas­tern Mis­sis­sip­pi river­bank. Unli­ke the part­ly ele­va­ted west bank of St. Lou­is, indus­tri­al and trans­port are­as here often have only slight natu­ral dif­fe­ren­ces in ele­va­ti­on. Lar­ge mar­shalling yards, har­bor basins, and trans­ship­ment sites could the­r­e­fo­re be laid out on con­ti­guous are­as. At the same time, the pro­xi­mi­ty to the river requi­red exten­si­ve hydrau­lic engi­nee­ring measures.

A striking exam­p­le of the still visi­ble indus­tri­al infra­struc­tu­re is the Car­gill grain silos on the Mis­sis­sip­pi in East St. Lou­is. The monu­men­tal con­cre­te struc­tures are among the most striking buil­dings along the eas­tern river­bank. Tall silo towers, cylind­ri­cal sto­rage bins, and swee­ping con­vey­or sys­tems cha­rac­te­ri­ze the faci­li­ty and make its ori­gi­nal, indus­tri­al func­tion appa­rent from the outside.

Grain silos ful­fill an essen­ti­al task within Ame­ri­can agri­cul­tu­ral trade. Agri­cul­tu­ral pro­ducts such as corn, wheat, or soy­be­ans often have to be stored in lar­ge quan­ti­ties in bet­ween befo­re they can be trans­por­ted for fur­ther pro­ces­sing or sale. Sto­rage in enc­lo­sed silo cells makes it pos­si­ble to hold lar­ge quan­ti­ties on com­pa­ra­tively small are­as of land and to orga­ni­ze the flow of goods inde­pendent­ly of indi­vi­du­al har­ve­st or trans­port dates.

The Car­gill facility’s spe­cial loca­ti­on com­bi­nes rail trans­port and inland ship­ping. Grain can be deli­ver­ed via con­nec­ted rail­way tracks and then trans­por­ted into the silo bins by mecha­ni­cal con­vey­or sys­tems. From the­re, enc­lo­sed con­vey­or bridges enable onward trans­port to the river­bank. At the loa­ding and trans­ship­ment faci­li­ties the­re, inland ves­sels or bar­ges can be loa­ded or unloaded.

The Mis­sis­sip­pi has par­ti­cu­lar eco­no­mic signi­fi­can­ce within this trans­port sys­tem. Lar­ge tow con­voys can car­ry sub­stan­ti­al quan­ti­ties of bulk goods over long distances at com­pa­ra­tively low cost. The con­nec­tion to the ports loca­ted far­ther south on the Gulf of Mexi­co also opens access to inter­na­tio­nal mar­kets. The grain silos of East St. Lou­isthus stand as an exam­p­le of the role of the Ame­ri­can inte­ri­or in natio­nal and inter­na­tio­nal agri­cul­tu­ral trade.

Archi­tec­tu­ral­ly, too, the­se faci­li­ties dif­fer mark­ed­ly from ordi­na­ry com­mer­cial buil­dings. Their design fol­lows almost exclu­si­ve­ly func­tion­al requi­re­ments. The tall ver­ti­cal silo cells use the available ground area as effi­ci­ent­ly as pos­si­ble, while con­vey­or bridges, main­ten­an­ce towers, and tech­ni­cal super­s­truc­tures con­nect the various pro­duc­tion and trans­port processes.

From a distance, the con­cre­te struc­tures appear as com­pact, near­ly clo­sed forms. On clo­ser inspec­tion, howe­ver, their com­plex struc­tu­re beco­mes visi­ble. Stair­ways, con­vey­or belts, pipe­lines, and tech­ni­cal frame­worksform a fine­ly arti­cu­la­ted sys­tem who­se indi­vi­du­al com­pon­ents are coor­di­na­ted with dif­fe­rent func­tions within grain handling.

The monu­men­tal dimen­si­ons of the­se indus­tri­al buil­dings crea­te a striking con­trast with the sur­roun­ding green spaces and trans­port rou­tes. This con­trast is espe­ci­al­ly evi­dent at the wes­tern edge of Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park. The lar­ge silos rise up behind lower buil­dings, while in front of them lie broad lawns and the river land­scape of the Mississippi.

In the evening hours, the effect of the faci­li­ty chan­ges con­sider­a­b­ly. The low sun high­lights indi­vi­du­al con­cre­te sur­faces and makes the tech­ni­cal struc­tures appear more three-dimen­sio­nal in the side light. At the same time, the silos stand out against the sky as clear geo­me­tric forms. The indus­tri­al archi­tec­tu­re of East St. Lou­isthus acqui­res a visu­al impact that dif­fers cle­ar­ly from its purely func­tion­al use.

Wea­ther con­di­ti­ons can also great­ly alter this effect. Approa­ching thun­der­clouds, dark are­as of sky, and iso­la­ted reflec­tions of light crea­te a striking con­trast to the bright silo walls and the deli­ca­te steel struc­tures. Espe­ci­al­ly at dusk, this crea­tes an atmo­sphe­re in which the tech­ni­cal struc­tu­re of the indus­tri­al faci­li­ty and the natu­ral chan­ges in the river land­scape meet directly.

The Car­gill grain silos on the Mis­sis­sip­pithus docu­ment an important part of the eco­no­mic and trans­port histo­ry of East St. Lou­is. Tog­e­ther with the lar­ge rail yards, the road bridges, and the trans­ship­ment faci­li­ties, they illus­tra­te that the eas­tern river­bank has remain­ed a signi­fi­cant part of the regio­nal infra­struc­tu­re even after the decli­ne of num­e­rous tra­di­tio­nal industries.

Malcolm W. Martin Memorial Park – Gateway Arch and skyline from the Illinois side

One of the most unu­su­al per­spec­ti­ves on the St. Lou­is sky­line opens up from the Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park in East St. Lou­is. The public park lies direct­ly on the eas­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­pi, oppo­si­te Gate­way Arch Natio­nal Park. From here, the cen­ter of St. Lou­is can be seen almost in its enti­re­ty. The Gate­way Arch rises in front of the sky­scra­pers of Down­town, while the river forms a broad spa­ti­al divi­de bet­ween the two cities.

The crea­ti­on of the park is clo­se­ly lin­ked to the com­mit­ment of the Ame­ri­can lawy­er and phil­an­thro­pist Mal­colm W. Mar­tin. Mar­tin work­ed for deca­des to ensu­re that the eas­tern bank of the Mis­sis­sip­pi would also be more stron­gly included in the design of public urban space. His goal was to make the rela­ti­onship bet­ween St. Lou­is in Mis­sou­ri and East St. Lou­is in Illi­nois visi­ble not only through trans­por­ta­ti­on and indus­tri­al faci­li­ties, but also to crea­te a publicly acces­si­ble viewpoint.

Even the archi­tect of the Gate­way Arch, Eero Saa­r­i­nen, had deve­lo­ped ide­as that went bey­ond the imme­dia­te design of the wes­tern river­bank. Mar­tin took up the idea of a stron­ger spa­ti­al con­nec­tion bet­ween the two banks and foun­ded the Gate­way Cen­ter of Metro­po­li­tan St. Lou­is in 1968, a non­pro­fit orga­niza­ti­on dedi­ca­ted to the pre­ser­va­ti­on and deve­lo­p­ment of the cor­re­spon­ding pro­per­ty on the Illi­nois side.

An important step was the con­s­truc­tion of the Gate­way Gey­ser, a monu­men­tal water foun­tain that was com­mis­sio­ned on May 27, 1995. The faci­li­ty was desi­gned so that, under sui­ta­ble con­di­ti­ons, its jet of water could reach a height of up to 192 meters. This was inten­ded to echo the height of the Gate­way Arch and estab­lish a visi­ble con­nec­tion bet­ween both banks of the river.

The foun­tain was accom­pa­nied by four smal­ler water jets, who­se design refer­red to the major rivers of the regi­on: Mis­sis­sip­pi, Mis­sou­ri, Illi­nois, and Mera­mec River. For many years, the Gate­way Gey­ser was a well-known attrac­tion on the eas­tern river­bank and was among the tal­lest arti­fi­ci­al water foun­ta­ins in the world.

Over time, howe­ver, the tech­ni­cal faci­li­ties beca­me incre­asing­ly main­ten­an­ce-inten­si­ve. After almost three deca­des of ope­ra­ti­on, the respon­si­ble orga­niza­ti­ons deci­ded against fur­ther use for eco­no­mic and eco­lo­gi­cal reasons. At the end of 2023, the end of regu­lar ope­ra­ti­ons of the Gate­way Gey­ser was announ­ced.Nevert­hel­ess, the histo­ry of the foun­tain remains clo­se­ly lin­ked to the crea­ti­on of the pre­sent-day park.

Par­al­lel to the deve­lo­p­ment of the water fea­ture, a lar­ger public green space was crea­ted. The pro­per­ty ori­gi­nal­ly mana­ged by the Gate­way Cen­ter was trans­fer­red to the Metro East Park and Recrea­ti­on Dis­trict in 2004. In the years that fol­lo­wed, land­sca­ping was car­ri­ed out, which ulti­m­ate­ly resul­ted in the estab­lish­ment of the Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park. The park was ope­ned for its cur­rent use in 2009.

One of the most important fea­tures is the Mis­sis­sip­pi River Over­look, an ele­va­ted vie­w­ing plat­form that was also com­ple­ted in 2009. The struc­tu­re, about 13 meters high, has seve­ral levels and offers an unob­s­truc­ted view across the river to the sky­line of St. Lou­is. Its design was deli­bera­te­ly cho­sen so that visi­tors can view the Gate­way Arch from dif­fe­rent heights.

The plat­form thus offers a spe­cial per­spec­ti­ve on the city’s best-known land­mark. While the Gate­way Arch impres­ses up clo­se abo­ve all through its immense dimen­si­ons and unu­su­al geo­me­try, its form can be ful­ly app­re­cia­ted from the Illi­nois side. Both legs of the arch appear in a lar­ge­ly sym­me­tri­cal view that par­ti­cu­lar­ly empha­si­zes the archi­tec­tu­ral cha­rac­ter of the monument.

Direct­ly behind the arch rises the sky­line of Down­town St. Lou­is. Depen­ding on the vie­w­ing ang­le, the his­to­ric Old Court­house, modern office towers, and other down­town buil­dings beco­me visi­ble. The varied heights of the archi­tec­tu­re crea­te an inte­res­t­ing back­drop, while the Gate­way Arch stands in the fore­ground as a clear, clo­sed form.

Espe­ci­al­ly the his­to­ric dome of the Old Court­housecrea­tes a striking con­trast to the modern steel struc­tu­re. Both buil­dings stand for dif­fe­rent pha­ses of St. Louis’s deve­lo­p­ment. The Court­house recalls the city’s eco­no­mic rise in the 19th cen­tu­ry and signi­fi­cant events in Ame­ri­can legal histo­ry. The Gate­way Arch, by con­trast, is an archi­tec­tu­ral monu­ment of the 20th cen­tu­ry that sym­bo­li­zes St. Louis’s role in west­ward expansion.

The Mis­sis­sip­pi runs bet­ween the obser­va­ti­on point and the sky­line. Its broad expan­se of water forms a natu­ral divi­de, while at the same time high­light­ing the eco­no­mic and geo­gra­phic con­nec­tion bet­ween the two cities. For cen­tu­ries, the river has been one of the most important reasons for the emer­gence and deve­lo­p­ment of the enti­re regi­on. Even today, it is inten­si­ve­ly used for freight traffic.

The sur­roun­dings of Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park make this eco­no­mic signi­fi­can­ce espe­ci­al­ly visi­ble. Imme­dia­te­ly bes­i­de the well-kept green spaces rise the Car­gill grain silos, while exten­si­ve trans­port and indus­tri­al faci­li­ties lie far­ther north and south. Con­vey­or bridges lead to the trans­ship­ment points on the river, rail­way tracks run behind the river­si­de faci­li­ties, and major road con­nec­tions cut through the flat land­scape of the Ame­ri­can Bottom.

It is pre­cis­e­ly this pro­xi­mi­ty that gives the park its spe­cial cha­rac­ter. The site is not a recrea­tio­nal area com­ple­te­ly sepa­ra­ted from the city, but part of an envi­ron­ment still shaped by indus­try and trans­port. The jux­ta­po­si­ti­on of public green space, grain silos, and the his­to­ric sky­line high­lights the dif­fe­rent func­tions of the Mis­sis­sip­pi riverfront.

For the Pho­to­graph of the Gate­way Arch and the sky­line of St. Lou­isthe Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park offers par­ti­cu­lar­ly favorable con­di­ti­ons. From the Illi­nois side, the monu­ment can be cap­tu­red tog­e­ther with the down­town area wit­hout the indi­vi­du­al legs of the arch being stron­gly dis­tor­ted by per­spec­ti­ve due to the clo­se pro­xi­mi­ty. The grea­ter distance also makes it pos­si­ble to place the archi­tec­tu­re of the Gate­way Arch in its urban context.

In day­light, the geo­me­tric forms of the buil­dings and the struc­tu­re of the sky­line come to the fore. The stain­less-steel sur­face of the Gate­way Arch reflects the natu­ral light and stands out cle­ar­ly against the dar­ker faca­des of the sur­roun­ding high-rises. Depen­ding on the wea­ther, dif­fe­rent con­trasts emer­ge bet­ween the sil­ver-colo­red arch, the sky, and the sur­face of the Mississippi.

The indus­tri­al ele­ments along the river­bank also expand the pho­to­gra­phic pos­si­bi­li­ties. High-vol­ta­ge pylons, har­bor faci­li­ties, and his­to­ric bridge struc­tures can be included as com­pon­ents of a deli­bera­te­ly docu­men­ta­ry depic­tion. They make clear that the sky­line does not have to be view­ed in iso­la­ti­on, but is part of a lar­ger urban land­scape shaped by com­mer­ce and infrastructure.

From an ele­va­ted per­spec­ti­ve, for exam­p­le from the obser­va­ti­on deck of the Gate­way Arch on the Mis­sou­ri side, the­re is a rever­se view of East St. Lou­is. From the­re, the exten­si­ve rail­way faci­li­ties, high­way inter­ch­an­ges, indus­tri­al are­as, and green spaces of the Illi­nois side beco­me visi­ble. In par­ti­cu­lar, the imme­dia­te pro­xi­mi­ty of the Car­gill silos and the Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Park can be cle­ar­ly unders­tood from this perspective.

The two vie­w­ing direc­tions the­r­e­fo­re com­ple­ment each other. While the view from East St. Lou­is to the west shows the repre­sen­ta­ti­ve sky­line and the Gate­way Arch, the view from the Gate­way Arch to the east illus­tra­tes the indus­tri­al and trans­port infra­struc­tu­re of the oppo­si­te river­bank. Tog­e­ther they crea­te a com­pre­hen­si­ve impres­si­on of a regi­on who­se deve­lo­p­ment has for cen­tu­ries depen­ded on the clo­se con­nec­tion bet­ween Mis­sis­sip­pi, trade, indus­try and trans­portis based.

The Mal­colm W. Mar­tin Memo­ri­al Parkthus has a signi­fi­can­ce that goes bey­ond its func­tion as a view­point. It crea­tes public access to a river­front land­scape that for a long time was pre­do­mi­nant­ly shaped by eco­no­mic use, and at the same time opens up an excep­tio­nal per­spec­ti­ve on one of the most famous archi­tec­tu­ral monu­ments in the United Sta­tes. East St. Lou­is thus beco­mes not only the loca­ti­on of a view­point, but an inde­pen­dent part of the histo­ry and per­cep­ti­on of the enti­re metro­po­li­tan region.

Gateway Arch und Skyline von St. Louis als dunkle Silhouetten, dahinter Sonnenstrahlen und davor der Mississippi.